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Small Snag
by: rob63 - Jan 11, 2013 13:10:15 GMT -6
Post by rob63 on Jan 11, 2013 13:10:15 GMT -6
Looks spot on to me
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Jan 11, 2013 13:08:04 GMT -6
I`m presuming that this is a drum brake as you mentioned cable ? Sometimes the shoes/drum just need a good clean, or it may be that the cable is stretching. First port of call would be to take the brake apart and clean/lube it, then re adjust the cable and see how it goes. If still no good then it might be time to replace the cable. Here`s a link to help with the brake dismantling scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=frame&action=display&thread=1492
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Post by rob63 on Jan 11, 2013 13:00:11 GMT -6
The idle should be around 1700-1900 rpm, at that speed the rear wheel shouldn`t be moving. Not sure how your bloke is adjusting it but if you look in the seat box there should be a small flap which you remove. You should then be able to view the top of the carb and the idle adjustment screw. As for the topping out on speed, you may have worn rollers in the variator, sometimes they wear flat at one point and stick in the variator galleries. It`s worth taking the belt cover off and the variator and giving it an inspection. As an afterthought the shop may have messed around with your mixture so it`s worth checking that as well, here`s a link to help scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=intake&action=display&thread=1499
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Post by rob63 on Jan 11, 2013 6:52:23 GMT -6
Cheers Bashan, the only thing I came across was an oil temp gauge which screws into the dipstick hole. Nothing to measure oil level though.
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Post by rob63 on Jan 9, 2013 9:13:46 GMT -6
We run a fleet of scoots which are hired out long term, most are 2 stroke 50cc and have an oil level sensor in the tank which triggers a warning light if the 2 stroke oil gets too low. However we have started running more 4 strokes mainly 125cc in a GY6 format. But we are having problems with lazy/thick customers not checking engine oil via the dipstick, and have had one blown crank and a couple of close calls. My question is does an oil level sensor exist which screws in place of the dipstick, which could activate a warning light if wired into the loom ? I`m not sure how practical an idea this is, what with the inclination of bikes when leaning and the splash effect in the sump. Anybody come across such an item or think it would work ?
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Post by rob63 on Jan 4, 2013 5:32:14 GMT -6
That`s a cracking idea, thanks for posting it
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Post by rob63 on Dec 21, 2012 2:33:05 GMT -6
Can you clarify for me, do you read the dipstick with it screwed in or with it just resting in the hole? I have read varying opinions. Just resting on the hole.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 17, 2012 9:37:08 GMT -6
Nasty, looks like the shockers are getting a bit too much sideways stress. What`s the state of your engine mountings ?
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Post by rob63 on Dec 15, 2012 15:50:05 GMT -6
Bloody hell, the gy6 I was trying to start last week had the same problem although my valves had taken a slight tap when the bottom end blew. Only found it when I held the head up to the light. Never thought about mentioning it here as you`d fitted a brand new kit.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 14, 2012 16:28:07 GMT -6
Yes there should be some resistance on the kickstart. Another way you can get a rough idea of compression is to leave the spark plug in and turn the flywheel clockwise by hand, it should get to a point where it`s at the top of the compression stroke and need extra effort, maybe two hands to get it over the point of no return. If you can turn it easily with one hand then you have a compression issue. Might be time to invest in a compression tester buddy and do a proper check.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 13, 2012 4:18:42 GMT -6
Does it make any difference to the starting if you kickstart it ? Sometimes the starter motor will drag too much out of a battery and make the spark weak. Have a look at the fuel/air screw, if you wind it in and wind it out 3/4 of a turn, that is a good starting point. You can then adjust it out to about 1.5 turns if necessary as that`s the standard adjustment range for 2 stroke carbs. When you`re cranking the motor and it eventually kicks in, how much throttle are you giving it, if any ? It might be worth checking which slot the circlip is in on the needle. As Alley said, check the plug for signs of fuel. I`d be surprised if it`s a crank seal problem especially after only 1000 miles. I haven`t changed any for years, the standard of seals these days is a lot better than it used to be.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 12, 2012 3:27:10 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Dec 10, 2012 12:43:45 GMT -6
The mounting screws can be a pain to get out, sometimes a little bit of corrosion builds up on the threads. It`s always worth giving them a whack with something like a brass or steel drift and a hammer to shock them, and then try the wrench or impact driver on them again.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 4, 2012 14:03:13 GMT -6
How long does the loss of power last , is it momentary or a few seconds or longer ? As it only happens at top end, I`m just wondering if this is a simple misfire due to plug or coil breaking down, split in the ht lead, or even a dodgy plug cap which is shorting out.
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Post by rob63 on Dec 3, 2012 10:23:55 GMT -6
It`s designed to look like that, a lot of younger riders prefer the look of an expansion chamber to a normal 4 stroke silencer. Internally it does the same job so no need to worry. I must admit that the pipe has confused me on occasion when you see a bike listed as a 4 stroke but the pic shows it fitted with a '2 stroke' silencer, I had to delve into it and found that for some Chinese manufacturers it`s a selling gimmick.
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