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Post by hooknose on Apr 20, 2013 10:43:54 GMT -6
My theory was not tightening the adjuster nut enough, but because it was quiet when cold (which is when I thought it should be the noisiest) I wanted some more opinions. The sound is most definitely not the “normal” noise the engine had made for the previous 1400 miles. The plug and exhaust are tight. When I tightened the adjuster nuts I was wondering if they were tight enough since I was not using a torque wrench.
Thanks for the input, hooknose
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Post by hooknose on Apr 19, 2013 21:04:51 GMT -6
So, after a little over 1400 I adjusted the valves on my Roketa mc-13-150 because it was starting hard cold and dying at stop signs before completely warm. I set both at .004” and this solved the cold starting issue as well as the dying issue. I have since put a little over 160 miles on it. All was good until my last 10 mile trip into town when I started to notice the taping sound that began after it got warm. I drove home and put it down for the night. Next morning I started it up and there was no tapping so I took another ride. As it warmed up the tapping became audible and increased in volume as full warm-up was attained. I can’t dig into it until after graduation from nursing school in two months but I would like some opinions on the most likely etiology.
hooknose
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Post by hooknose on Oct 4, 2012 22:35:57 GMT -6
I figured that out after my last posting. Since the switch just closes or opens the circuit, either way you put the wires the current will travel the same direction. Got it back together and engaging the starter from both brake levers now (just in time to put away for the rainy season here in WA state). Thanks for all of the insight to everyone who replied to my quandary.
Jess
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Post by hooknose on Oct 4, 2012 15:31:31 GMT -6
After taking more plastic off to get too the switch wiring connectors this is what I found. Yellow and green wire from left going to G&Y 2into 1 connector, Black from left switch going to B 2into 1 connector. Coming from the right switch G&Y going to same black connector as left switch black wire.Black wire from right switch taped off unconnected. I first replaced the faulty left switch and tested for brake lights and start; it worked as designed. Next I untaped the right black wire and connected to the open G&Y connector that also connects left switch G&Y wire. The brake lights came on without me touching the lever. I unhooked the switch from the handle to see if it was stuck on (after jiggling did not work). Switch was fine. After making sure the lever was releasing to full off position I took the left lever and right off for comparison.The lever on the faulty right side was between 1/16 & 1/8 inch shorter in the area that makes contact. I put a small dab of epoxy putty on it to lengthen the contact point, let harden, then hooked the black wire into the open G&Y connector. It now seems to work as designed on both sides. But before I put the plastic back on I have one question on the wiring. I looked at your posted Bali wiring diagram and it looks like the left and right switch wires both connect black to black & green yellow to green yellow. Just wondering if the wires from both switches both connect to same color connectors.
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Post by hooknose on Oct 3, 2012 21:37:31 GMT -6
jaksonbrown; thank you for the description of how the brake light, starter, and solenoid are wired. Since removing the left switch I checked the right brake handle and it does not engage the brake lights. Is it possible that the right switch has been out the whole time and the left one has been shorted out causing the lights to be on whenever I turn the key on? I don't remember trying to start it without depressing the handle. I don't really know if this theory is valid but when I took the left switch out the button was stuck in the depressed position. I ordered three of the switches because I heard they were problematic , so I will replace both and hopefully she will start as was designed.
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Post by hooknose on Oct 3, 2012 19:25:24 GMT -6
Thanks for the clarification on the switches Rich. I will replace the one on the left and leave the right one alone.
Jess
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Post by hooknose on Oct 3, 2012 16:49:36 GMT -6
I got this bike used with only 69 mile on it and only the left side would enable the starter then .Yes, I did try using both levers to enable the starter and only the left one did. Since the miles were so low, and the right side engaged the brake lights still, I assumed that this was normal . Apparently that was the wrong assumption (not the first one I've ever made). So apparently the right switch was out when I got the bike or the switch wiring is loose somewhere . The left switch went out recently and yes, power to the switch was my first check. I shorted the two wires out and it did enable the starter. So looks like my next move is replace both switches. And to recap; there is no functional difference between the ones with the plastic nipples and the ones with the brass ( thought maybe the brass ones were grounded and the plastic ones not)?
Thanks for all the input: hooknose
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Post by hooknose on Oct 3, 2012 15:59:36 GMT -6
I will rephrase my Question. Are the left and right side switches identical ? If not what is the difference in material and function since only the left side enables my electric start?
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Post by hooknose on Oct 3, 2012 15:17:24 GMT -6
Are the brake switches the same on the left and right side of a 2008 Roketa Bali mc-13-150. The replacement I ordered (for the left) has a plastic nipple as apposed to the brass original. Just wondering if there are some grounding issues since this side enables the electric start. Any comments would be appreciated.
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