Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Joined: Apr 7, 2010 21:57:22 GMT -6
|
Post by winchesterboy on Oct 30, 2011 22:37:39 GMT -6
I am by no means an expert banana, but (IMO) I believe alleyoop was correct about the belt not riding fully in the bottom of the variator pulley! Maybe one or more of the rollers/sliders (or u shaped slides) has become dislodged and now the variator is stuck (open), a little bit. This will make the scooter take off real slow and most likely buck or want to die when stopped. Kind of like trying to take off in second gear with a manual transmission.
Yesterday I rode my scooter 16 miles on the interstate, and when I came to a stop, my scooter was bucking and wanting to die/quit. When I went to take off the scooter would go real slow, until about 10 miles an hour, then it ran fine as long as my speed stayed above 10-15 miles an hour. When I took my CVT cover off and looked at what was going on, it looked a lot like your video. The variator is jammed open, about 1/2 in., and the rollers/sliders (or U shaped slides) will not allow the variator to close. A closed variator would allow the belt to ride in the smallest area of the pulley but since the belt is riding higher in the front pulley it will ride lower in the clutch pulley making the clutch engage while sitting still. Centrifugal clutch! This is really bad for the belt!!
I am guessing about the cause of the stuck variator! I, also, can't remove my variator nut to verify the cause of the problem! I put a small amount of blue loctite on the nut, when I had it off a few months ago, and now even with a compressor and an impact driver I can't remove the nut! Story of my life, (insert...long sigh here!).
Good luck with your scooter! (Wow, that's a lot of snow! Pretty but..... yuck!) winchesterboy
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Joined: Apr 7, 2010 21:57:22 GMT -6
|
Post by winchesterboy on Dec 8, 2010 15:18:39 GMT -6
we350z, the turn signal switch has a small screw inside that will loosen up over time. When the screw becomes lose it causes the "button" to bind so you push harder etc....Unhook your battery then carefully take the switch housing apart. It has been a couple of years since I had mine off so I don't remember exactly all the details but...The switch housing, after removing the two screw, will need to be carefully pried apart. Be careful there is a ball bearing, maybe a couple of springs and contacts that may become dislodged. You can gently push the turn signal "button" while watching the action to really see what is happening. The screw needs to be removed while holding all part in position and a small drop off loctite put onto the threads (do not get loctite on any sliding parts, only the threads of the screw. Too little is better than too much!) and screwed back in. Do not tighten the screw down real tight because the "button" will not slide properly when pushed in. You must tighten only enough to snug down the screw while not hampering the sliding, in and out action, of the turn signal button. Good luck! Hope this reply might help a little bit. Also more than likely the Honda turn signal switch will fit yours.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Joined: Apr 7, 2010 21:57:22 GMT -6
|
Post by winchesterboy on Aug 21, 2010 21:04:45 GMT -6
The variator was from autotech355 (Carlos). I reposted the Ebay link, it does expire in 2 days. The variator came with (8)12g sliders. I had put sliders in the OEM variator and thought they were 13g but they were 12g also but are a little rough from the worn variator, so the new ones were a nice bonus! Smorkle's post is what convinced me to go with autotech355 and the Dr Pulley variator (and the price was the best I found also).
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Joined: Apr 7, 2010 21:57:22 GMT -6
|
Post by winchesterboy on Aug 21, 2010 16:19:30 GMT -6
While attempting to change the CVT belt I removed the variator, which had been making some odd noises, and the blasted thing was wore out! I guess one of the four sliders for the ramp plate had broken which had caused a domino effect of damage. The "fingers" on the ramp plate were worn and broken. Also the variator was filled with metal dust from the worn parts. Here are some pictures; I didn't know if I wanted to replace with an OEM variator or go with the Dr Pulley. In the end I went for the Dr Pulley. I received it yesterday and installed it. I have had a strange noise coming from the CVT, but with the Dr Pulley the noise is gone (I also replaced the belt, which might have helped, IDK). It did not turn the scoot into a racer, but it is smooth. Overall I am pleased with the results from the new variator. This is the Ebay site I purchased the Dr Pulley from; cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dr-Pulley-Variator-kit-YP250-Aprilia-Linhai-Roketa-250B-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ330461918975QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesI ordered the variator 8/12 and received it on 8/20, not bad coming from Taiwan. It also came with (8) 20x12 Dr Pulley sliders.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Joined: Apr 7, 2010 21:57:22 GMT -6
|
Post by winchesterboy on Aug 21, 2010 15:38:03 GMT -6
Check the connectors at the voltage regulator (manostat?)for tightness. I think the button your tallking about is a "flash to pass" button. To be used for a quick flash from low to high beam. Good luck!
|
|