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Post by Smorkle on Jun 26, 2010 13:37:43 GMT -6
I did some more testing on my scoot and discovered that at 5000 RPM one of the stator wires was easily putting out 60VAC, one was putting out about 50VAC and the last one was putting out 45VAC. Previously I was testing them at idle (a little under 2000RPM.) Still when I plug the rectifier in they all dropped down to about 5V and there seemed to be very little DC voltage output on the secondary side of the rectifier. This leads me to believe the rectifier is in fact bad, but perhaps my stator is not putting out what it should? If my stator is going bad, I think I found one to fit my MC-54-250B. It says "GY6 250CC water cooled" and I think that the cfmoto version is the "GY6" version but this one MIGHT fit. Any ideas? scootercrossing.com/GY6_Parts/Stator.html
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 26, 2010 9:37:00 GMT -6
Really? Everything I have read elsewhere said the voltage coming out of the stator should be about 30 volts +/-
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 26, 2010 9:24:22 GMT -6
Okies
Since damin seemed to find a bad connection as his problem, this morning I set out to find mine and I believe I have a bad regulator.
The AC voltage coming out of the stator is 25-35VAC until you plug it back into the regulator. When you plug it back in the voltage coming out of the stator drops to about 5-7VAC. DC voltage coming out of the other side is about 2.5VDC.
I therefore have determined that I have a bad regulator/rectifier.
Gonna look thru this posting and see about one of the ones listed to order. Anyone think there is a chance that I could find one locally rather than order it? Where would I look?
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 23, 2010 19:36:47 GMT -6
This weekend I rode over to my uncle's house but before I went I just reached up under the plastic where the regulator is and jiggled the wires around some. Voila! it was charging at 16VDC when I got to 5000 RPM's. I hit a bump and it went back down to barely 13VDC, so I know that i have a loose connection in that area somewhere.
I was kinda waiting for damin to get his fixed for sure before I tore into mine but after that I have a pretty good idea where my problem lies. Maybe I'll afford myself some time for that this weekend.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 22, 2010 16:23:28 GMT -6
Might wanna mess with your roller weights to increase speed. Mine came with 14 gram weights and I lowered them to 12 gram to get more bottom end, but now I top out at about 75MPH whereas before I could get up to 83-85MPH but that's too fast for me anyhow.
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 20, 2010 13:23:09 GMT -6
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 20, 2010 13:03:34 GMT -6
I found a better wiring diagram that I referred to than yours. It looks as though the regulator goes to the main fuse then off straight to the battery. I'll bet your fuse block has loose connectors. I would check continuity from the brown wire you show in the picture to the main fuse, then from the main fuse to the battery. I'll just bet since you seem to have good voltage at the regulator that there is some sort of a connector problem (or loose crimp, bad wire, etc.) between the regulator and battery. Make sure that the rectifier/regulator is grounded properly and that the battery is grounded properly. Sometimes you need to scrape some paint or rust off under the grounding connector to make sure it's getting good contact. I hope this is of any assistance to you. ÷)
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 17, 2010 18:38:52 GMT -6
I'm very interested in your solution cause I may be having the exact same problem.
I installed a volt meter on mine and I have noticed that it seems to get full charge of about 14-15volts intermitantly. Sometimes it gets a good charge and then sometimes it doesn't.
Keep me posted.
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 11, 2010 7:36:52 GMT -6
Heard of them briefly, but know nothing about them or where they are or anything.
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 5, 2010 19:28:13 GMT -6
Pictures of what I have done: Top side results: Tee in bottom: I THINK this is the other sensor in the top of the engine near the carburetor:
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 5, 2010 19:02:01 GMT -6
The sensor I am referring to is the one for the electric fan. Apparently there is another sensor somewhere else for the gauge in the instrument cluster. I guess what I've done is get rid of the engine temperature gauge and install a water temperature gauge. I think knowing the water temperature would be better to know, but I'm not sure. I have the thing installed now and wonder if I goofed up rather than helping. I don't know if the probe thing I bought will work for the other sensor in the engine.
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 4, 2010 21:32:36 GMT -6
With all the trouble I was having with my electrical system, I decided to install a voltage meter. I found one at Advance auto parts for $18 so I figured that one would work ok. While I was there I found a mechanical thermometer with real temperature readings and I thought that would be way better than the crappy electric one I had that just reads hot and cold and you have to guess where the sweet spot is.
Anyhow, I took out the "motorcycle sound" and put the volt meter in it's place. It fits in ok and only the holes where the screws held down the face plate are exposed. I wired it up to the running lights so that it would be on when the key was on and off otherwise. This part of the project went very easily.
I removed the instrument panel and measured to see if the new temp meter would fit in it, and it would. I looked at the radiator and discovered where the existing temp sensor was and figured that was the only place to put the new probe. My original plan was to remove the sensor and install the probe and then i got to thinking that the electric fan also uses that sensor to decide when it should be on so I better figure out how to use this hole for both devices. That's when the trouble started.
The electric temp sensor has a 3/8" pipe thread, or perhaps the metric equivalent. The new probe had several adapters and one of them was 3/8". It would not fit in the hole. I took the existing sensor to the hardware store and bought a TEE fitting that it would screw into, a little nipple that would also screw into it and made sure everything fit together properly. Yeah right.
When I got home the sensor would screw into the tee, the nipple would screw into the tee, the new probe would screw into the tee, but the new nipple would NOT screw into the existing hole on the radiator! I finally got my micrometer out and measured the hole: .54" and the nipple: .58" UGH! I messed with that thing for 2 hours trying everything I could think of to get them to screw together to no avail.
I finally was digging through my tool box and found a small pipe threading tool for 3/8" NPT and low and behold it was smaller than the nipple. I used it on the nipple and the damn thing screwed right into the radiator! The other end still screwed into the tee and everything else went smoothly.
I still have to reassemble the bike, but it ran OK, the fan came on at about 160° and off at 140°. The radiator didn't seem to leak but the ordinary lights on the new gauges look funny at night. The rest of the dash is lit up with red LED's but these just have regular white incandescent bulbs and they just look different. Will have to remedy that.
I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow as I didn't take any today, but I'm pretty happy with the results!
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Post by Smorkle on Jun 1, 2010 16:06:44 GMT -6
Yesterday I decided to go out on a limb and purchase a new battery. I didn't shop around any. I just went to O'Rileys auto parts and asked for a new one after showing them the old one. I kinda gulped when he said "$62.99." but I got it anyhow.
All electrical problems seem to have vanished. I guess the battery was the problem after all. Me and the GF had a nice ride up to Wetson, MO and had lunch and a nice walk. Scooter ran fine the whole time.
Thanks for all those who gave valuable input.
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rear rotor
by: Smorkle - May 27, 2010 19:57:07 GMT -6
Post by Smorkle on May 27, 2010 19:57:07 GMT -6
The Roketa MC-54-250B is the same bike. I have had a couple of bad experiences with Roketa.com but they do help some people sometimes. The part you are looking for is $35 + shipping and is part number 51 in this drawing: Click Here for drawingBe aware that Roketa may take parts off of a bike that is a "parts bike" sitting around for whatever reason. They may order it from China and it take 6 months, or they might have one on the shelf and send it right out! it's a crap shoot. You might also try Ebay. If you measure the old one and know what you're looking for you can find one hereI hope that helps you out.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by Smorkle on May 27, 2010 18:41:22 GMT -6
Today I decided to give this issue another look-see.
I went out to the bike and pulled it out of the garage and opened up the seat and took off the battery cover and took a voltage reading: 12.4VDC
Started it up and it went up to 12.49VDC.
Let it warm up and revved it a little and got it to peak at 13.0VDC
So I took it on a little ride about 20 or so miles and got back to the house and repeated the testing.
12.3VDC off 13.2VDC running
I'm thinking the battery may in fact be on the verge of crapping out on me. I believe I'm gonna try and replace the thing and see if that makes any difference.
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