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Post by clonedrone on Mar 19, 2014 14:45:59 GMT -6
Being a Texican myself I know exactly what your dealing with. i have a Mercado of Waxes and Polishes with a high level of UV protection. As for the seat I would opt for a seat cover or do what they do south of the Border. Were I frequent In Mexico at the Mercado locals set up with a Mexican blanket or piece of Cardboard for the seat so you can actually sit on it once you finish shopping, keep apiece of cloth or towel under the seat and use on the seat while it is parked. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 19, 2014 14:37:20 GMT -6
Way back in my day's working on 50cc Vespa Moped's I found this condition. Had many using junk injector or premix oil, all led to the Exhaust Port Clogging or Closing up. Very common problemo. Same with the Pipe, Many were clogged with gue. Drop the pipe and look up the exhaust port. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 19, 2014 14:29:37 GMT -6
I find my front end to be a bit Chattery. i'm late to the gate with my Big Bore build so I think I'll just enjoy her this summer and work on the Front Suspension. I'll start with a different High Quality Viscosity Fork oil then move to shim or spacer. I have a bud at progressive suspension so I may try to match up some progressive fork spring's. The rear shocks seem to be adequate so far. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 19, 2014 7:50:14 GMT -6
Man you guys have been getting nutty weather this year Clone,,, your area is usually well into spring by this time aren't you? Ya were bout three weeks behind. Better than the Rust belt of NEO I grew up in but not as good as Fort Worth were I spent nearly half my life. The Asphalt here holds up very well compared to Fort Worth and the Rust belt. I tried Perelli and Dunflops of several different compositions in Fort Worth and never got comfortable on them. Other than long periods between rain were the oil and grease slicked up the roads the Asphalt seemed to get polished. I could just touch the throttle on my Street Fighter (may she rest in peace) and spin the rear, woke me right up. I know when they repaved TMS they went from a Limestone base compound to a Granite base. Limestone soaks up water like a sponge. I seemed to get better grip and feel from my 1970 whatever I think K-781's on my old RD. maybe age is a factor also. These new Battle Axe feel great but they are wearing very quickly in the middle, only 1,300 miles on the Fireblade. Supposed to warm up soon so I'll get back to work on the sissy stripe. Hey I see you In Westlake Ca, I had a office for awhile in Santa Paula, My associate had a F-4I, he would let me take her out for lunch, up the 150 to Ojai. What a great ride, the 150 had wide burms on the corners so coming up on a Car they would move aside and let me attack the corners. There was a great Burger joint just into Ojai I used to enjoy. guess I totally jacked this thread. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 19, 2014 6:51:14 GMT -6
The Nikasil is the predominant coating for Cylinders these days. Yes they use a Diamond and or Ceramic Hones on them usually in a Sunnen automatic Honing machine. The Final Finish can be altered depending on the application ie. A Race application cylinder will get a courser finish for fast break in compared to a normal Replate a very fine finish, Cant and Don't baby the fine finish or move to Synthetics to early or you may glaze the cylinder and take forever to break it in. Chris at Millennium seems to do the best consistent replates in my experience. I'm no fan of iron cylinders or Iron sleeves in Cylinders, they have horrible heat dissipation and Thermal Expansion quality's. Thus I can set up a Piston clearance much tighter in a Plated cylinder,Superior ring seal, skirt wear and longevity. The bets place for Iron is the back yard grill, it does not belong in any modern Engine.
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 18, 2014 17:29:49 GMT -6
All good I think your on it. I would have recommended dumping the Old Fuel but as stated I think your on it. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 18, 2014 17:13:51 GMT -6
Crazy Spring Weather this year. Here in NC had second Snain storm the last ten days, was 28 this Morn and 34 now. Some just got power back on from the last Snain. Went from 28 and Snain to 77 and Sun last Saturday. Took the Scoot out and enjoyed some 38 miles of Scootin. Parked her and worked on the Sissy Stripes on my Fireblade. Two extreme end of Two wheels, I love the Scoot just puttin around at 45 enjoying the NC country side. The nice Asphalt down here is great to Attack the roads with the Fireblade. first time I've been on Battle Axe Bridgestone's. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 18, 2014 16:42:49 GMT -6
I'll take a stab at this. Couple things, In Il is the Scoot new or did it sit over a few months of Winter with Gas from last fall or Winter in it? If the oil is showing Overfull I seriously doubt or no way there is that much Blow By on the new rings to cause a overfull condition. If so you would have so much Positive Crank Case pressure that you wold be Blowing all kinds of oil out the Breather. I have found two different Ring packs in these late model Four Smoke Scoots. a .039 Top (1mm) a .047 second and a .110 three pice Oil ring. Second a even thinner .031 top, .031 second and a .059 Oil ring. The Top or compression Ring is of good quality Stainless with a Chrome Face, The Cylinder's now are all Plateau Honed with a very Fine Finish. A Plateau hone can be visualized like a Pyramid with the Sharp Pointy top Knocked off Flat, The Older Honing process is like a Sharp pointy Pyramid. The later in break in you had to knock the top off the Pyramid with Much thicker ring packs. These Modern Cylinder Piston assy, Seal up very well from the get go.
The Bright Side. i would venture to guess that there has been some fuel sitting in the carb/Tank that has caused the Float and or needle and Seat to stick open causing the Overflow of Gas in the oil, Hopefully just by running it you have run some fuel thru it and it cleaned itself, If not and you have no tools or skills you may want to try a Ethanol Treatment.. All to most of the Ethanol treatments use Petroleum Distillates as a cleaner so not much difference in what brand. Ride On! Clone
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 18, 2014 14:27:08 GMT -6
No. and Yes, is also to raise the cylinder for Stroked applications, you did not mention the thickness. The MFG's cylinders height varies, You want the timing or outside edge of the piston at what is called "Zero Deck". The piston should ideally at Top Dead Center (TDC) not stick out of the bore or be down in the bore. Minimum Squish clearance should be No tighter than .039 or 1mm with the Stock Con Rod. Use some type of straight edge to check, + or - .010 ( Ten Thousands) can and will effect the Static Compression Ratio. You don't want the engine firing with the piston down in the whole and out of the whole may get dangerously close to hitting the cylinder head. Jump over to the Tech area of this board and read the Squish Clearance Thread. If you need to custom the thickness of the base gasket Cometic Gasket can custom one up in a couple days for cheap. Cometic offers for Two Smokers what they call a compression stack of base gaskets, consists of three to four different thickness base gaskets, typically .005, .010, .015, .020 etc. Do the same for setting up ol KZ and GS Big Bores back in those days, offered in several different materials. Ride On! Clone Snit, a little to much information. sorry
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 17, 2014 9:52:15 GMT -6
My 150 purchase cost $649. plus $120 shipping. I very much enjoy the build almost as much as the ride so as I ordered the Scoot I also ordered the following upgrades and installed them once uncrated. 115mm Variator. Belt Clutch Bell, ( Needed the cooling holes burs cleaned up using Dremel. Ventilated Belt Cover CDI Ignition Coil Iridium Spark Plug Removed EGR assy. and made my own Block Off Plate. Removed Air Box and made my own Intake (Likes at least 6 inches in length).Up jetting required (forgetting exactly) to 112-115 main and Upped the pilot. Foam Air cleaner with Pre Cleaner. Crank Case ventilator/Check Valve. Synthetic Oil in Gear Case. Very happy with these upgrades, Feel She's a fun reliable Scoot.
Have purchased over the Winter a 61mm Big Bore Cylinder, Piston, Gasket assy. +2mm Stroked Crank Shaft, Checked for True, is within .001 run out. 61mm Combustion Chamber Big Valve Cylinder Head. Several sets of Valve Springs. Low-Mid Range Cam Shaft. High Volume Oil Pump. Just need to decide on a Flat Slide Carb and Either Gut the stock Exhaust or purchase after market Exhaust. Was hopping to complete this BB this winter but may put it off till next Fall and just enjoy what I have now. Ride On!! Clone
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Happy day
by: clonedrone - Mar 17, 2014 6:46:06 GMT -6
Post by clonedrone on Mar 17, 2014 6:46:06 GMT -6
Great Read!! My China 150 plug change has a acces cover in front or I can actually just do a reach around from the underneath right side. Air box removed and can also get to it by lifting the seat. Ride On!
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 15, 2014 18:21:07 GMT -6
Born and raised in the Rust belt of NEO, back in the day young and dumb I busted out equipment in the salt dust etc and always paid the price. I will not take anything out in the salt dust any more, usually takes till early May. Many intersections had piles of salt dumped. Ive tried everything you could imagine, Like running the Boat in the ocean, with all the stainless it still took a beating. They salted the snit out of the roads here in Randleman last week with the Ice storm. a good gully washer washed it all away. 71 today and I feel the Need!!!!
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 14, 2014 12:37:53 GMT -6
No one mentioned it does not make a difference at all. Unless you are building a racing engine specialty "break in oil" is not necessary. Synthetic is not slicker than rock oil, it is engineered to not break down as fast. It doesn't lubricate better, just lasts longer. Important when you consider rock oil looses half is viscosity pretty darn quick (2000 miles or so) Synthetic keeps its lubricating properties at higher temps for months longer.
Break an engine in with any quality oil. You will be dumping your first oil in 100 to 300 miles anyway. The second oil change should be in the next 300 miles or so. These engines shed a lot of metal until they are broken in. After that run the oil that you will maintain in the scoot.
Rock oil does not help break in an engine better or faster. It is cheaper to dump rock oil after the first two oil changes, and you will not run the first two changes long enough to matter.
Rock Your flat out wrong on most you said! No a break in oil is not necessary But it is a very good idea to use a break in oil with its High Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulphur content. The majority of theses items have been removed from Dino oil ever since the EPA mandated a Catalytic converter last 100,000 Miles. Try putting the late model Dino crap in a old Muscle car with a flat tappet cam, See Ya Cam lobes! Synthetic not slicker? were you come up with this? Old news proven. Ya think all the Cup, IRL, Nationwide, Truck, F-1 use this because it last longer? they get most for free and could not care how long it lasts, It is its superior performance, It is Slicker thus making more HP period. The Dyno don't lie. A good quality Synthetic can easily go 20,000 in a passenger car here's how. Go 5,000 mile change the filter and add a quart of oil, you can even go 7,500 miles and do the same change the filter and add a quart of oil, Bing, Done. and ya save some cash too. Synthetics in the hot running GY-6 is a very good idea. Oil does Three things, It is a sealant a Lubricant and a Coolant period. I sell Lots of oil to the top engine builders in this country and converse on there testing and development.
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 10, 2014 19:07:20 GMT -6
Geez drone ,ice storm one week,,and almost summer the next,,,that's gotta be weird,,,,you live in the carolinas correct? 10-4 Roger, Roger. Randleman, NC Reminds me of my years in Fort Worth.
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Post by clonedrone on Mar 10, 2014 19:01:50 GMT -6
So clone what say you of my mix I use,,,, 75% napa synth or royal purple and 25% Lucas oil treatment?,,, wasting my time? It just seems to work, and after 10,000 miles on a ducati s4 916 engine teardown no noticeable wear of any kind anywhere ( and this engine was not babied ) seems to work for you, so go with it. Currently I would recommend for break in either Dino High ZInc, Phosphorus, Sulfur break in oil from Gibbs or Maxima. I would move to Synth, Maxima once broke in. Not counting out Mobil 1
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