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Post by jerryscript on May 15, 2015 10:45:27 GMT -6
Love hearing about someone being helped and passing it on. Hope you have many miles and smiles!
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Post by jerryscript on May 13, 2015 10:08:19 GMT -6
The DMV will use the frame as the legitimate number, the frame is what is actually registered on all two wheeled vehicles. So long as the frame matches the title, you can remove that erroneous plate. If the frame doesn't match the title, you will have a legitimate complaint. At that point, you can tell the dealer you will be contacting their licensing agency if they don't fix the issue. You must give them time to respond in good faith, so don't be too impatient.
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Post by jerryscript on May 10, 2015 14:36:57 GMT -6
The only parts I've had to replace on my Q50 are the R/R and headlight bulb (a result of the R/R being bad). My nephew has a Rocketa Peace 50cc, and has not had to replace anything. Both are still under 5k, no record, but promising! I have just under 2k miles in four months on my 150cc, and no issues yet other than the exhaust valve being zero tight on delivery. I realize older Chinese scooters had major issues, but newer ones seem much better quality. On a price value basis, you cannot beat a brand new Znen IMHO.
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Post by jerryscript on May 9, 2015 11:44:39 GMT -6
Have you adjusted the pumper spring? I'm referring to the curved piece of metal that is pressed by the throttle assembly to pump the accelerator. Bend it or straighten it to get the most effect from the pump. You may just need a bit more spray.
When you turn the throttle, you are opening up the butterfly, allowing more air in, and temporarily decreasing the vacuum. Less vacuum means less fuel being pulled through the jets. The accelerator pump delivers a short spray of fuel to compensate, allowing the engine to build up vacuum and pull more fuel.
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Post by jerryscript on May 8, 2015 10:54:35 GMT -6
OK here is an article pertaining specifically to motorcycles. www.motorcycleperf.com/TechTips/BadGasoline.htmlNot to argue too much, but the simple fact is, high octane is to prevent knocking in high compression engines. GY6 is not a high compression engine, and I have never heard one knocking from low octane fuel. If you don't hear knocking with regular gas, you don't need a higher octane.
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Post by jerryscript on May 7, 2015 23:04:38 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on May 7, 2015 16:01:25 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on May 6, 2015 0:38:38 GMT -6
If it sat that long without being started, and had fuel in it, you may need to clean the fuel system. Clean the carb, change the fuel filter, and add treatment to the tank. Modern fuel with corn squeezins will gel up when left sitting for long periods. I personally would drain the tank into a large bowl/pot to visually inspect the fuel.
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Post by jerryscript on May 6, 2015 0:30:11 GMT -6
Just to see what would happen, I've been using dollar store 76 brand oil in both my scooters. My 50cc has been running on it for two years with over 3000 miles, and my 150cc is over 1600 miles, and I've been using it since PDI on each of then. Nothing for the record books, but the experiment will continue.
What is more important than brand/type of oil is the frequency of oil changes. My father taught me to always change your fluids more often than the manual says, and his vehicles lasted for decades without needing major repairs. I change my oil every 500 miles in the cold months, and every 300 miles in the heat of summer. It only takes 10 minutes, and using cheap oil it costs less than a cup of coffee, so why not?
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Post by jerryscript on May 2, 2015 14:33:08 GMT -6
Brand new they go for anywhere from $600-900, so you got more than a dollar a mile off the new price. Good luck, and enjoy the ride!
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pair system
by: jerryscript - Apr 23, 2015 10:07:58 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by jerryscript on Apr 23, 2015 10:07:58 GMT -6
What is the purpose of the filter? It's a vent, it does not suck in. Same question with gas tank vent/return line, why add a filter? Only thing I can think of is to keep bugs from crawling in there, and that's a stretch..... One of my Scooters came brand new with only a 3" hose coming from the vent... No filter, no check valve, just a small rubber hose. To keep any blow by from getting out, keeping everything clean.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 22, 2015 11:53:38 GMT -6
Could be different diameter handle bars. Regardless, all you need to do is shim it. You can cut a piece of a can, or use a strip of rubber, you probably won't need to fully wrap it, just enough to get it tight.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 21, 2015 18:58:06 GMT -6
Problem is, 2-stroke engines were mainly used in scooters during what we refer to as the unreliable years, late 90's-2009. Around 2010-2012, 4-stroke engines became the norm due primarily to emissions requirements. The quality of many scooter brands also have shown a noticeable rise since then. Part of this (perceived?) increase in quality is due to new factories with better production methods and controls that were built in the early 2000s. Another part is the fact 4-stroke engines are not as rough on themselves as 2-stroke engines, after all they fire half as often.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 17, 2015 21:40:43 GMT -6
That's cool. It's nice to know for 100% sure you have a b-case. If you ever get froggy and want to build that motor into a 232cc using Taida products, let me know. I am an official Taida re-seller and stock Taida's entire line-up. 67mm plus an 8.8mm stroker will make that motor scream! Unfortunately, the crank is special, different number of splines. I'm trying to find a stroker for it, not sure I would use one, but I'm looking at all options. I would love to take her up to 200cc! That 61mm rebuild kit is cheap enough for me to buy without pulling my head/jug to measure the case aperture. If it does require boring, I may trade up before installing.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 17, 2015 10:18:17 GMT -6
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