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Post by mthomas on May 9, 2010 16:51:20 GMT -6
Rich,
I was actually thinking about the exact same mods today. I would like a little more zip and better up hills. Let me know where you get your parts, how much ballpark and what kind of benefits you see.
Thanks Mike.
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Post by mthomas on May 9, 2010 16:44:30 GMT -6
Nice to see somebody from the Burgh.
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Post by mthomas on May 4, 2010 21:07:16 GMT -6
If it was me, I would avoid using thread lock and especially JB weld. I would buy either one or two bolts to replace the studs. Just my .02
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Post by mthomas on May 4, 2010 20:21:54 GMT -6
I rode mine up and down my street trying to get the carb set right...didn't work.
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Post by mthomas on May 4, 2010 15:16:28 GMT -6
My oil changes cost about $18 and an hour.
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Post by mthomas on May 4, 2010 6:33:12 GMT -6
Thanks guys,
That 53 would be worth big bucks today. My dad bought this as a father son project when I was 15. It was a total and we did a frame off resto. It has a mild 350 4 bolt main and is build for cruising not bruising. I had it in storage for about 8 years while I got my family and career going and I got it back out about three years ago. Not bad for a paint job that was done in 1980. It has 62K miles and the interior is still like new. I have some detail work to do but it is a blast to drive. Thought I would share.
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Post by mthomas on May 3, 2010 19:04:47 GMT -6
Brought home my other toy this weekend. Now my scoot has to share my time along with the kids and work and the house and the wife and the family and friends and about 50 other things.  Here's another one  |
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Post by mthomas on May 1, 2010 7:02:46 GMT -6
I rode.
Did have a wild turkey fly across the road in front of me..scared the bejesus out of me.
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Post by mthomas on Apr 29, 2010 17:06:36 GMT -6
1. Plates title and registration...$117.50
2. Insurance...........................$100.43
3. Wifey pointing out that they cost more than the friggin bike......Priceless
Gotta love wives!
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Post by mthomas on Apr 29, 2010 5:44:59 GMT -6
Got it registerd and plated.
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Post by mthomas on Apr 26, 2010 5:48:13 GMT -6
They are both set at .004, did that last week.
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Post by mthomas on Apr 25, 2010 18:02:44 GMT -6
tom, how exactly did you do it? did you have to sand paper the seat? and what type of duplicator ?does it say in the bottle fabric paint?etc? pardon my ignorant,,,,,i mean innocent question. thanks Not an ignorant question at all. Go back and read my first post and it tells exactly what I did and how I prepped the seat, type of paint and technique. Here is the original article I read to find out about it: Mike www.ehow.com/how_2319849_spray-paint-vinyl-simulated-leather.html |
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Post by mthomas on Apr 25, 2010 17:53:18 GMT -6
Sanding the brakepads helped substantially. There was plenty of brakepad left and as far as the rim, there was oxidation from sitting for over a year which is most likely what clogged and glazed the pads. A quick scuff with some 120 grit did not hurt nor remove any of the metal. Before, I could not stop the scoot in a normal distance with just the rear brake but it can now. A little WD-40 on the pivot freed things up and made it smoother.
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Post by mthomas on Apr 25, 2010 13:09:54 GMT -6
OK...you were right and I was wrong. I took the old NGK plug and wire brushed it and re-gapped to .032. I put it back in and it ran better. I think what happened is when I put the new plug in, I was afraid to strip out the soft Chinese head and because of the crush washer, did not tighten it as well as I should have. Still hard to start once it got warm even though I adjusted the valves.
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Post by mthomas on Apr 25, 2010 11:47:47 GMT -6
Already in the plans.
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