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YY250T-1
by: stevespidel - Mar 6, 2014 6:09:27 GMT -6
Post by stevespidel on Mar 6, 2014 6:09:27 GMT -6
Despite my post above, Bob is correct. YY250T is too generic a label for identification. The MC-13-250 is a much better way to ID your bike in a post without a pic. (Obviously a pic is the best way...) I have one of those, but it's a 150cc and it's broken. I'll give it to anyone that wants it. It just had the engine rebuilt, but it was never re-assembled. Long story, but it's otherwise a good bike. Oh, it has a registration problem. The owner of record is not around and so you have to do a notary thing to get it registered and make it legal again. I ordered the MC-13-250 and received the YY250TT. Not the same scooter. YY250TT has a different engine.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 4, 2014 3:57:02 GMT -6
Yes the RPM rates are for when they will engage. Most 250cc scoots like to idle 1800-2000rpms, 50s and 150s 1500-1800rpms. They idle the smoothest around those rpms. what does yours currently idles at the smoothest? That will tell you which springs you need, but I would say 2000rpms you want a little lee-way so its not trying to turn the wheel sitting and you having to hold the brake and lugging the motor down and wearing the plates out more. Alleyoop Alley, I think I'm about to learn something here. These springs and this part of the thread sound like CVT scooters more than a 5 speed tranny with clutch. That RPM based clutch spring also applies to manual transmissions? Other than using manual transmissions I have no real knowledge of clutch springs in that application. Would it confuse this thread for you to give a quick run down?
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 3, 2014 22:01:28 GMT -6
Very useful info! Thanks for the link.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 3, 2014 11:56:49 GMT -6
My redline starts at 8500 also I use my speedometer and my eyes to measure speed and when I'm riding in a 35mph zone cars seem to just pass me like if I was going so slow like really slow but engine is aleady at 5th gear and throttle wide open can catch up to a car. Should I make a video of me driving and show you what I mean? Trust Alley on this. He knows best! I'm nowhere near as skilled as he. Looks like you've ruled out gearing and speedo for sure. Sounds like clutch to me though.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 3, 2014 4:45:24 GMT -6
I mentioned the rear sprocket because my Dong Fang came with 13/45 sprockets and changing to 38 made a big difference. If you're at 17/46, I agree with Alley that your problem is most likely not gearing. This is such a basic question that I hesitate to ask, but does it "feel" like you're doing 35-40 at 8.5K? Is there a remote possibility that you're speedo is jacked?
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 2, 2014 23:01:10 GMT -6
well steve My rtc has a 428H chain with 100 links also luckily I removed the rear fender so fender clearance isn't much of a problem mine has 17t on front and 46t on rear if you could remember that place where you bought your sprocket I will forever be grateful because finding a 6 bolt sprocket to fit is very frustrating. It appears Google is not my friend anymore :/ It was Old Bike Barn. They sell quality sprockets. My 38T sprocket was about $30. My chain is 520 by 128 link roller. If yours is 17/46, your final (2.07) might be close to what that engine can handle. Alley was correct when he said that top end might improve if your engine can handle a smaller sprocket but acceleration will suffer. Always a trade off, huh? You might take a look at My China Moto for a little more info on Dong Fang.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 2, 2014 19:54:01 GMT -6
well I can only reach 5th gear as it has no 6th and by gearing you mean the gears inside the engine? if so do you know a place where I can buy the one I need? Don't know if you're replying to me or not but gearing in my case means change either the rear sprocket or the front (countershaft) sprocket. It's not a technical job, but the rear wheel has to be removed and I needed a breaker bar to loosen the nuts holding the sprocket to the wheel. I'm sorry but I can't remember where I bought the sprocket but they had a large selection. I couldn't advise you on the correct one because mine has an 18" spoked rear wheel and I couldn't even begin to guess what might work with your version.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 2, 2014 19:31:02 GMT -6
I changed mine shortly after purchase. At another website they are saying in the 50mph range and most owners are switching to 35 or 38T. At 45T, I was in 3rd gear at about 25-30 mph. 35T is a little tall for hill country. I didn't need to shorten the chain to get proper adjustment, but the wheel was back far enough that I was worried about fender clearance so I took out 3 1/2 links. There isn't enough room under the cover to change the countershaft sprocket without changing the 520 chain down to something smaller. I don't expect to see much over 60mph with mine, but it's not bad for city or short highway runs. For sure, not a freeway bike. My version is a hardtail springer so 60 is fast enough for my old bootie. Listed as 250cc but it's really 229cc.
With all that said, she seems to be well built and after the rather easy setup she started right up and runs well. I have had to adjust the clutch cable several times to allow for stretch. His should be past that new bike stretch. She is pretty much in the same class as a scooter more than a practical highway cruiser. My YY250t and my 150cc Ice Bear Viking are both faster.
If it's allowed, I can post the name of another website that has an extremly large thread dedicated to the Dong Fang.
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Post by stevespidel on Mar 2, 2014 15:33:32 GMT -6
Haven't read the whole deal, but I have a Dong Fang 250 rtb-B and it came with a 45T rear sprocket. I changed it to a 38T and it performs much better. Several of the Dong Fang models seem to be shipping with the 45T sprocket. OK for a dirt bike maybe?
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 31, 2013 16:14:47 GMT -6
Sure don't have one of those! I'm at that lonely stage that we all hit in our lives. To old and ugly to love and to poor to be used. ;D Sure glad I have the trike to play with.
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 31, 2013 5:38:57 GMT -6
I posted this on another forum also, but I think it might be helpful so I also posted it here. I'm new at this, so it might not be all that new, but I'll share this anyway. I installed apehanger handlebars on my Viking and needed longer brake lines so the system sat empty but sealed for almost 3 months while I tried to hunt down new lines. Maybe that time lag was my problem, but I could not get either brake to pump up after the install. I was sure that I had an air lock some where. My solution was to grab up one of those big 'ol massagers that a lot of women are fond of. I set it for hi speed and held it on the bottom of the line next to the calipher while I pumped the handle. This is with the bleeder valve closed. Didn't take long for the air to start bubbling out of the master cylinder and there was no mess to clean up after. Works on the same idea of those giant vibrators that I used to settle concrete into the form as a kid. I now have a cordless Hitachi massager in my tool box. Read more: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/3150/new-bleed-brake-lines#ixzz2jIZDa0qW
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 23, 2013 14:00:37 GMT -6
That makes sense! I found some with spring adjustment that are about .75 inch shorter so with that and maybe a little sag from setting the springs softer, I'll get the back a little lower and a better ride. I can live with a harsh ride, but it also is hard on the trike and all the stuff hanging off of it.
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 23, 2013 6:44:06 GMT -6
Thanks for the input. The Viking frame is a clone of the ruckus, so I'll figure on Japanese shock eyes. As to passengers, I carried a passenger one time on my motorcycle and hated the experience. I have removed the bitch-pad on every bike I've owned since. I weigh about 190 and I have to jump on the thing to even move the rear shocks.
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 23, 2013 6:28:45 GMT -6
This is such a basic question and I think the answer would apply to any vehicle.
The rear shocks on my 2012 Viking are so stiff that I feel like I'm riding an old rigid frame bike. I have lowered the pressure in the tires but it hasn't made much difference. So the question is how do I determine the correct length shock to buy? Do I measure the current shock from center to center with no load? Also what specs am I looking for, such as mounting hole size, body diameter, ect. You can see that shocks is a new area for me!
On the same track, I have lots of clearance and my trike sits a little high in the back so I want to lower it about 2 inches. I think that lowering the rear might also increase the effective rake at the front a little which I want. The plan then is to order something about 2 inches shorter and much softer, maybe adjustable. My current shocks are not.
This is just transportation, so I dont want air ride or any of that high tech, (expensive) equipment.
Any input as to how to do this, including source info would helpful!
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Post by stevespidel on Oct 20, 2013 10:12:15 GMT -6
Know what you mean about the budget. And I can't vote to raise my debt ceiling.
I was refering to the vacuum line that runs to the carb, not the to diaphram itself. That line lifts or lowers the diaphram. Mine had a tiny crack that kept opening up.
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