Clinician
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 9, 2014 5:45:22 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 7, 2014 20:51:57 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 5, 2014 7:42:20 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by pmatulew on Apr 12, 2014 5:37:26 GMT -6
The coffee table comment cracks me up. I seem to remember a yamaha project that spent the winter in my parlor one time... While it's true that this scooter project has humble beginnings, and it's likely that it will never be a Pebble Beach contender, a project like this is often less about the end result, and more about the joy of doing, the skills you pick up along the way, the shared experiences between participants, and the sense of accomplishment from bringing a sad puppy back from the brink. unsolicited testimonial: This stuff can work wonders --> www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Compound/16550255
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Post by pmatulew on Apr 10, 2014 16:48:30 GMT -6
It can be saved if you're willing to put the time and money in to it. I've started with worse before.
To make the Yay or Nay decision you'll have to start from the bottom and work your way up. Does it have legal papers? (if you need them for a 50 in your area.) Then strip the motor and see where you stand. What will it cost to repair or replace the engine? Then start adding up the cost of all the essential missing pieces. Lights, mirrors, grips, cables, hoses, brake parts, bodywork. Is it still worth it? Not much point in spending more than what it would be worth at market value.
If you've got a salvage yard nearby then you've got a leg up on most of us. Broken plastic can be mended back together if the pieces are all there. The milky clear plastics can be buffed out if they're otherwise sound. Even the painted parts might surprise you after a little elbow grease.
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Post by pmatulew on Dec 14, 2013 12:20:43 GMT -6
Back to the original question..., Is it gunky or is the shiny finish worn off?
I've tried several different kinds of grease on mine. High temp, low temp, fancy high moly paste. Didn't seem to matter what I used it would quickly collect the dust and debris from the belt and get gummed up and jammed. The last time I had it apart I used a little dry graphite powder to see how that behaves. I believe that the normal recommendation is to assemble it clean and dry.
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 25, 2013 11:42:39 GMT -6
Another junk article by those MotorcycleUSA hacks. You can't put a 125 in with a bunch of 50's and then praise it for the extra power. Regardless of sticker price you have to go apples to apples. Plus they completely omitted mentioning the regulatory threshold that 50's skirt even though that's about the only selling point of a 50 to begin with.
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 12, 2013 18:59:26 GMT -6
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 11, 2013 17:42:01 GMT -6
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 11, 2013 17:22:04 GMT -6
I suspected some sort of off-road activity was involved. No point in casting aspersions though. I've had my own share of young and foolish type adventures. Still do on occasion.
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 11, 2013 6:43:07 GMT -6
A well used 50 in complete and working order is going to be worth between $500 and $800. The scoot you have still needs some work and you're in for $380 already. It sounds like the performance of a 50 doesn't measure up to your needs. So add up the cost of the repairs this one still needs and see if you think you can get your investment back. If you enjoy the work it may be worth it for the learning experience. Or sell it as is and move on to something bigger. I love the Frankenstein rivet plates by the way.
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 10, 2013 14:19:53 GMT -6
Cast aluminum can be welded, but it's tricky and you're going to want a skilled professional to do it. I'd ask around your local welding shops for an estimate and then balance that against the cost of replacing the part. There are used parts available on ebay and such. You're going to have to take it apart either way.
Or you can try to fabricate some sort of substitute bracket bolted to other available mount points but there's not a lot of option and not much room to work with.
If it's a 2-stroke engine, they are really sensitive to to header length so you really can't chop it off and make a shorty.
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 5, 2013 11:46:49 GMT -6
Even if the wheel were bent to hell, There's no way that nut is coming off by itself unless the threads are knackered, or the nut is a mismatch to the shaft.
You're missing something. Are all the bushings and washers where they are supposed to be?
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Post by pmatulew on Nov 1, 2013 16:03:20 GMT -6
It depends a lot on the geometry of the bike and your body dimensions. Even something as simple as the amount of air in your tires.
One thing to try is standing on your right foot and using your left foot on the center stand. That puts your body core and your lift point further to the rear. Allow you more leverage to lift up at the back.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 29, 2013 16:39:04 GMT -6
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