Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Feb 2, 2014 10:27:34 GMT -6
Thanks for replies. I've just connected my car battery to it and it fired up straight away on electric start so I guess I need a battery with higher ampage than the existing 4amp battery. Any suggestions on high high to go (battery compartment can take a bit bigger battery but if I need one that's too big for compartment I can move to space under seat.
Thanks
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Feb 2, 2014 5:50:57 GMT -6
Wish I'd spent another 10mins on bike before posting!!. Found the corresponding wires tucked away near the fuel tank inside a rubber boot. Got wires connected and now the starter button works but still not firing up (only on kick start). Before I invest in a new higher amp battery do you think it'd be a good idea to try using my car battery to see if it will fire up (12v but much more cranking power). Aside from the battery & solenoid I don't know what it can be (but I'm sure quite a few of you have figured I'm not the brightest spark so I'm sure it could be a ton of other things too).
Thanks
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Feb 2, 2014 5:14:05 GMT -6
Hi, I have had my Superbyke Powermax 50 (HT50QT-31) for 5 mnths and have been using kick start only as the electric start had been disabled (the 2 wires to the solenoid had been cut, on mine they are Yellow/Red & Yellow/Green). Just replaced my kickstart gear as teeth were worn so figured I'd sort out the wiring so have 2 starting options.
Problem is where do the wires get attached to as there isn't any corresponding wires on the harness that I can see to connect them to. Is one an earth and does the other one connect to the CDI unit? Only reason I ask this is that my CDI unit is a six pin version but on the female terminal that connects to it there are only 5 wires leading in, leaving a spare male pin on the CDI.
Also, a couple of months ago I upgraded engine from 50cc to 80cc. Would I need a higher Amp battery to start it as the existing one (brand new LB4L-B, 12v 4ah) doesn't seem to have enough 'oomph' to spin the variator pulley fast enough (I connected some wiring with a push button starter to the Solenoid). After not many attempts it seems to just run out of juice. In past few days I've put on a new starter motor (old one was probably fine), and a new solenoid is in the post to me.
I can put a new push button starter on the dash and wire directly to the solenoid terminals as I did to test but so far not worked and I would prefer to use existing wiring/starter button.
Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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Clinician
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Cam shaft
by: potwashman - Nov 10, 2013 8:17:44 GMT -6
Post by potwashman on Nov 10, 2013 8:17:44 GMT -6
Hello, I'm an idiot. I must have been typing my post when Moat was typing his so have only just seen his post. Yes I just realised this morning that it takes 2 revolutions of the Pulley to make the Cam revolve once as when I put it in timing this morning it was in the TDC position. As you pointed out, when the Cam was in the correct TDC the valve clearance was very loose. I re-gapped the bike this morning and it is running much better. Last night when I took it out for a spin just after doing it I was pretty disappointed with the result as it didn't seem much better than before but after doing it correctly this morning it is like a new bike. Goes like a dream up hills and feels so much better. Thanks for help & advice.
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Clinician
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Cam shaft
by: potwashman - Nov 10, 2013 3:02:23 GMT -6
Post by potwashman on Nov 10, 2013 3:02:23 GMT -6
The pic you posted is how I expected it to look like as that is the same as the ones on You tube I've been viewing. My Cam, like most, has 3 holes, 2 small and one large but whereas the hole on the pic is 'straight up' my cam was 'straight down', in the opposite direction. Can't understand why as Pulley was 'T'd up. I will adjust gap later today, thanks for advice. What about the Cam though, it would seem to be on the wrong way (how it was when I took off) but still works??
Thanks
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Clinician
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Cam shaft
by: potwashman - Nov 9, 2013 19:27:27 GMT -6
Post by potwashman on Nov 9, 2013 19:27:27 GMT -6
Hi, just upgraded my Superbyke Powermax 50 4T to 80cc (finished 2 hrs ago). Looked at countless videos on YouTube to get info on how to do. Put it back together exactly how it was and works fine but the only thing that's bugging me is the cam shaft. On all the vids I saw it showed the camshaft in the correct timing position as having 2 small holes aligned with top of the cylinder (say 12 o'clock & 6 o'clock) with another larger hole on the cam at 9 o'clock looking from the left hand side of the bike. The fly wheel was matched up with the T for timing. Well on my bike when the T was matched up and the small holes were aligned with the top of the cylinder the large hole was at the 3 o'clock position and not the 9 o'clock so my cam seemed to be 180 degrees out. I was tempted to spin it round so large hole at 9 o'clock but figured if bike worked before on current settings it would do so again so left it as it was and it did work when all re-assembled. Burning question is why is my cam 180 degrees out but still working. What would happen if I put the cam back as it should be. Gonna be on my mind so any replies appreciated. I set gap to 0.05mm on intake & exhaust, sounds a bit 'tinny' but I guess piston will need a little bit of bedding in. Cheers
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Nov 6, 2013 10:37:08 GMT -6
Hi, just an update. All sorted out now. It was a wiring problem. I took off the instrument panel and sprayed all of wiring harness connections with WD40 and put back together; hey presto, no oil light. Thanks for taking time to reply to posting.
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Oct 31, 2013 15:58:43 GMT -6
Doesn't say oil but it is a stock picture of an oil can with couple of spurts of oil coming from spout, same generic pic you get on dash of car. I'll look at wiring on crank case tomorrow. Thanks
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Oct 31, 2013 14:57:05 GMT -6
Hi Alleyoop, thanks for quick reply.
Bit dark to take photo's now (just got in from swimming) but it is a 4 stroke and not the 2 stroke. I think the 2T is HT50QT-25A and the 4T is HT50QT-31, my log book shows it as a HT50QT-31. However you did make me doubt myself so I double checked and there isn't anywhere to add 2 stroke oil when refuelling. It doesn't have a radiator, it is just air cooled. Could it just be a faulty oil switch, thinking oil is low when it isn't?
Again, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Potwashman
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Clinician
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Post by potwashman on Oct 31, 2013 12:11:51 GMT -6
Hi, I've got a Superbyke Powermax 50, 4 Stroke on a 59 plate. Had it about 8 weeks and runs fine. Got on bike tonight to come home from work and Oil Light on dashboard illuminated red and on constantly. I checked oil and plenty in so what could be the problem.
I do not have any manuals for it so don't know where Oil Pressure switch is located. Any ideas or help would be very much appreciated.
Bike has done 18k miles but runs OK and no noises or smoking from exhaust, I can't find a leak anywhere.
Cheers
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