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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:52:06 GMT -6
JR , couple issues, horn doesn't work and I'm getting a rattle/vibration from the cvt cover when I take off. Alleyoop mentioned another thread that this may be caused from the clutch pads glazing. What say you?
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:48:06 GMT -6
I dumped the Chinese oil after letting the motor idle for about 5 min to warm it up. Replace it with Dino 20w50 at 70 miles. It's at 250 miles tonight. When should I replace it again in your opinion? I was thinking at the 500 miles mark.
In response to your question, mine is up in front of the gas tank, fan behind radiator.
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:42:37 GMT -6
I can move the ROD in and out, WITHOUT the rest of the engine moving, so pretty sure this is my issue "I want my $5." Spoken in Better Off Dead paperboy voice! Alleyoop , is right. You need a new crank. I lost men in nearly the exact same way you did in December. Depending on how mechanically inclined/curious you are, replacing it can be done. There are several YouTube videos and instructions on sites like this one to help you through it. The other alternative, and in hind sight I'd do this, is to buy a whole new motor online. I had a lot of fun rebuilding mine, but the time involved for me and the cost after making a few mistakes wasn't worth it. Pick your poison. |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:35:44 GMT -6
Haven't heard from you in a while mxmatt.... Hope all is well  Let us know how things are going??? Thanks! , I feel I own the board a huge apology or something. I created all this excitement and then when my scoot came I was so excited that I just kept working on it and forgot to take the tons of pics that I meant to. Needless to say, the minute I finished the PDI, changed all the fluids and started the break in process, I have been riding it like a mad man. It was 106° in Phoenix today and I put 50 miles on it. I am definitely impressed with the quality of my new scooter compared to my 150. The 250 is the way to go. I'm getting 60 MPG and I've had the speedo at 70 MPH with a little more to go. JR , might be interested to know that the temp guage climbs just past the 3/4 marker when I am on the highway for a while, but never gets to red line. I'm going to be looking for cooling modifications once I get this paid off. I am definitely happy I took the mods advice and went with the liquid cooled 250 over that air cooled 200 I was eying. Hope that brings you up to speed. Some day I may get around to completing this PDI thread as I promised. How's your scoot running. You were having issues right? |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:22:33 GMT -6
JR , thanks a million. I was afraid I'd purchased another lemon, but it was a loose connection in the fuse box that fixed my fan problem. I been riding the shiot out of it ever since. 250 miles as of today.
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 22:20:15 GMT -6
Yes its pretty straight forward. If you have that scooter in your avatar pic. Put the scooter on the double stand. remove your plastic below the seat completely. lift your seat up and start disconnecting the carburetor and fuel lines. you will need to remove the intake manifold, the exhaust header, ignition coil, and from there start unscrewing all the bolts. (dont loose them!!!!) get big bowl and just toss them in there. remove the valve cover, undo the camshaft rocker and all the bolts from there and once done just slide off the valve head and slide off the cylinder and replace the piston. You will need a new top set gasket kit. Dont reuse the gaskets and dont use silicone. Thanks Walter! I appreciate the detail you provided. I'm just glad it can be done. I'll dig in soon. Having WAYYYYY to much fun riding my new Roketa 250. |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 1:56:18 GMT -6
Anyone ever change the rings on a 150 sport without removing the engine?
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 25, 2014 1:49:25 GMT -6
I put $5 on it being your rod bearing. Happened to me last December.
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 13, 2014 11:58:56 GMT -6
Thanks, JR. I have been following you procedure to a "T" and have added half a jug of Prestone 50/50 and still never heard the fan come on. The temp gauge has even gone slightly above half way. What is standard operating temperature? Or, where should my needle gauge be registering? I am wondering if I have a faulty fan. Question? When you removed the radiator cap after letting it cool off was it full or could you add more coolant? Was it full to the top of the cap? If not it still has air in the system. If it was full and the reservoir tank looked unchanged then it's properly burped and the fan should work. Temp gauge readings are in the range from 1/2 to a little over and when the fan comes on the gauge generally drops to a little below the 1/2 way mark depending on outside temperature?
When you started the scooter with the cap off and it warmed up a bit did the level go down a little? If so the thermostat did open and allowed the coolant to circulate.
These are the basic operating temperature ranges for the 250 scooter thermostat and radiator thermo switch:
Thermostat
Nominal temp. designation....165 deg F
Begins opening......................157-163 deg F
Fully open...............................176 deg F
Fan Thermo-switch
Starts to close (continuity)....... 208-216 deg F
Starts to open (no continuity).. 196-210 deg F
You can easily test the fan by unplugging the fan wire on the thermo-switch on the radiator and hooking it up to 12Vdc. If it comes on then we will know you still have air in the system or the thermo-switch is bad.
JR
When I removed the cap this morning and this is what I saw.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr I added about a cap full and that was all I could add and the reservoir was full. I've used approximation half a gallon of coolant so I think it is full. However, the fan has never turned on and I don't want to do damage to the engine as you suggest. Is there a way to access the thermo switch without removing all the body plastic? Also, can I use my jump box from Costco as the 12 volt source to test the fan? |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 11, 2014 15:10:25 GMT -6
Thanks, JR. I have been following you procedure to a "T" and have added half a jug of Prestone 50/50 and still never heard the fan come on. The temp gauge has even gone slightly above half way. What is standard operating temperature? Or, where should my needle gauge be registering? I am wondering if I have a faulty fan. |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 11, 2014 9:37:48 GMT -6
Now on the coolant, drain, drain, drain. Flush with water, fill system, run engine until warm and flush again. Drain completely then the good 50/50 premix and burp. Got to burp it and even idling on the center stand the engine will heat up enough for the fan to kick on ........if all the air is out. With it stripped you can do all fluid changes easier and keep things off the plastics and test run the engine also. Looking good.  JR , Something isn't working right. I drained the coolant last night and flushed it twice. I still have Chinese coolant in the reservoir and the fan has still never turned on. Can you give me the Changing Coolat 101 on how to do this? Thanks. |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 10, 2014 23:06:00 GMT -6
Bashan, Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense. I'll zip tie it to bike tonight. JR, Thanks for the advice and kudos on the strip down. I am sorry I wasn't more efficient at taking pictures and posting them as I went along. I was literally working on this thing every spare minute I had in between work and family. I had much more lofty intentions than what I actually produced. BTW, my scooter did not come with that cup you referenced. And, I am going to drain the coolant tonight and follow your procedure before I ride it anymore. I have only driven it about a half a mile and it is aching for me to ride it.
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 9, 2014 17:06:51 GMT -6
Start of tear down: Front panel removed.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Seat bolts removed.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Rear panels removed.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Battery compartment.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Fuel Pump.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Exhaust.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Top shot of engine compartment.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Electric connectors. Notice grease and silicone.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Is this a second regulator/rectifier? I need to secure it to the frame. Can someone tell me if it needs to be grounded or not?  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr This connector had a zip tie on it already. Not sure why. Removed, greased and reassembled with new zip tie.  Untitled by mxmattaz, on Flickr Fuel line was unattached. I suspect that this is normal.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr Working my way forward.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr The pink stink. JR says get rid of this coolant ASAP!  by mxmattaz, on Flickr Center console removed.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr Dashboard removed, electrical exposed.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr The reverse side.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr Dashboard back in.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr Windshield in, putting it back together.  by mxmattaz, on Flickr More later. |
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 8, 2014 9:47:05 GMT -6
Thanks boys. Good to know cause it showed signs of having been ridden. Must have a light rain that day. Sorry not much updating lately. Been real busy, I'm taking photos to share. So far I have stripped the scoot naked, removed every nut an bolt and applied blue loctite and then smeared clear silicone all over it creating a thin light liquid barrier coat, removed each scew and speed nut, pinched and replace speed nuts, injected silicone into the space gap hole and replaced screw and then smeared more silicone, disconnected each electrical connection and applied dielectric grease to fittings after inspecting for loose or damaged wiring and then sealed each wire connected end of the plug with silicone, let it dry and then connected plug and zip tied to frame in an advantageous place. I removed each light bulb and applied dielectric grease. While reassembling I used silicone to seal any plastic spots that could rub or that needed a buffer without going overboard. It has been slow and tedious, but I am patient and want this to be the first Chinese Honda Reflex! Lol
Next up, drain and replace fluids.
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Post by mxmatt on Jun 6, 2014 21:46:57 GMT -6
I have found that straight up Super Glue will actually do very well at holding those broken tabs in place as well as other cracked or broken panel pieces. I have some serious damage to my front shroud that I took the time and was careful to glue back together, even puzzle like. After a full cure I placed a good quality packaging tape on the underneath side and have been crack free for months. Good luck!
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? And again at 2033mi. 
Let us know how things are going??? Thanks!
