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Post by sabotendar on Apr 9, 2014 13:46:33 GMT -6
I now know the exact mix.  Very nice Tach! And about he air filter? any problem if i keep the sportive one or i have to put oldone on place what is inside of old air filter? Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 9, 2014 12:45:52 GMT -6
Yes, your turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW so that your REAR WHEEL JUST WANTS TO TURN. The other screw you adjust it FIRST the last thing to adjust is the IDLE SPEED SCREW: To adjust the other screw FIRST START it up and let it run for about 5 minutes to let it warm up. 1. Turn the Mixture Screw 1/4 COUNTER CLOCKWISE. a. IF THE IDLE GOES UP REPEAT #1 UNTIL THE IDLE DOES NOT GO UP then go SET YOUR IDLE #3. b. IF on the FIRST 1/4 TURN the IDLE DOES NOTHING or GOES DOWN go to #2 2. Turn the Mixture Screw 1/4 CLOCKWISE. a. IF THE IDLE GOES UP REPEAT #2 UNTIL THE IDLE DOES NOT GO UP then go SET YOUR IDLE #3. SET YOUR IDLE: 3. Set the idle so that the REAR WHEEL JUST WANTS TO TURN. The oil mix with the gas IT SHOULD SMOKE SOME if it does not smoke you need a little more oil. The Needle I would set it in the middle slot. That adjustment is if the motor needs more or less fuel in the MID RANGE. Alleyoop Now i know what i doing wrong i adjust the IDLE screw until the REAR WHEEL turn so when she turn i rotate counter-clockwise till she stop to turn  A tachometer would make a difference now!  on the manual says to adjust until 1750 to 1800RPM where is the tachometer?  About smoke i think smokelees is good  it have to make some smoke correct? so my mixture have poor oil combination i will raise the mix now...The fuel tank have 5L how much oil(milliliters) i have to put for a full tank? The sportive air filter can be a bad factor too? I like to put the original again but i dont now what is inside because when i open dont have nothing inside, i can put a piece of foam inside it? If so that's all I put in there?  Thanks for the guys help me on this journey. Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 9, 2014 8:15:00 GMT -6
On your current carb see if you can keep it running by raising the idle. Turn the IDLE SPEED CREW CLOCKWISE, just a little at a time. Alleyoop  Ok turn this in clockwise the motor accelerates and makes up the rear wheel spin I was adjusting this screw to a point where the wheel did not rotate im correct? And the other screw? How to adjust it? And the needle stuck in the throttle cable? What is the best position of the nut in the photo below?  Oh! i forget to say when do I properly mixing oil with gasoline, ie smokeless on exhaust pipe the bike seems to turn faster this is correct too? Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 8, 2014 15:53:38 GMT -6
That is a problem. You're really not supposed to do that. The airflow hitting that lip would cause counter eddies and disrupt the downward flow. I would think that would be even more of an issue with a two stroke. It would start I think but performance would be horrible. I once filed the intake port on a head until it matched up with a mega intake manifold. It worked but the bike couldn't take all the air flow. I ended up putting a restrictor plate on the intake side if that's not ironic. Rich In the next week i will remove the carb again and working on to find a carb compatibile with the hole from intake manifold i have to find a solution here. Like i say in another ocasion im not a mecanic so maybe i not regulate this thing right because the bike run well done when i accelerate and no lost or faulty in plane and clean route the only problem is when i stop and place in idle she work for a 1 or 2 minutes and if I do not keep the throttle it stops working idle position. Can you show me a video on how to regulate this? Now here the link for anoter carb i think to be similar to this. produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-545779045-carburador-phoenix-shineray-50cc-_JMand seems to have the same size of the hole from my old carb. Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 8, 2014 7:34:16 GMT -6
I said before I thought it was the idle jet. I think it's time for a new carb and OMG a $138.00 dollars!!??  The problem is the import rate inssues from my country in USA is $138.00 and when arrive in my country will cost something about $300.00 i think a adaptation to a national model is more viable here i can find carbs about $20.00 or $40.00 with adaptation would reach $80.00 to 100.00 the only problem is the size of the hole that goes to the intake manifold of the bike they do not have the same size.  I found one very similar    Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 8, 2014 4:03:07 GMT -6
Hey guys i dont go away i have many things to do with scoot and whitout you help i cant do nothing, i will stay here for many times. Yeah! my wife does not like the engine noise but she likes less than walking  she has to get used to the noisy motor she still does not know that the bike will be her on her birthday, about rewire i will start from stator, pulse coil, R/R and CDI what did you think? I have a update for you, in idle speed the motor stop to work if i not keeping aceleration if stop i have turn on again and to start I have to keep the throttle a little to start the motor faster. any advice? Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 7, 2014 7:19:54 GMT -6
If were not for your help I would not have done this bike running again , so thank each of you for the time spent reading my bad english writing and sometimes with the help of google translator. Bike is good and running well after adjusting the carb now have to buy the plastic fairing because it is all broken . But I still want to replace the CDI and whether it is possible to put another carb in place of the old , by the time i learned from you the carb is subject to normal faults and I do not intend to leave the bike to stop to exchange a bad carb . The electrical part is too damaged and many things do not work only the principal is working (CDI and R/R), the rest will have to be redone and I do not know where to start ... I will continue posting pictures and videos of how the bike is being modified to show the people who lost time with me to share my joy in reforming this bike for my wife... Seek me anytime at my email sabotendar_kun@yahoo.com.br Sabo. BEFORE  AFTER  |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 6, 2014 6:17:57 GMT -6
Check the reed valve from what you are saying it is not closing and pushing gas back out. Alleyoop I was what i do they are open i remove the screws turn the valves and place back and works. But i dont understant how ignition coil broken and the carb was cogled too. Hey guys i whant to change the motor oil and break fluid do you recomend anyone for hot places like Brazil? Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 5, 2014 18:25:28 GMT -6
Very Cool, Now can you keep it running if you give it more gas? Alleyoop The motor dont stabilize but i think it is a regulation on carb the problem is compression like you say the reed valve are open and dont close when is necessary i remove air filter and see all the gas blowing up from the air filter connection so i think if this is normal and when Alley say about reed valve i remember he is not closed when i open the admission coletor, well the next part is regulate the carb and fix the lamps wires...many things to do until the next month... |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 5, 2014 16:33:05 GMT -6
Are you sure you're getting these clear?
If those aren't clear the bike will surge and rev and sputter. Guys use needles and piano wire to clean out each hole. On an older bike they are almost always clogged. Yeah, be careful with the reed and use carb cleaner. The the jet from this photo is not the same as I have he dont have holes along the tube. Well I do not know if it is clean but I have a video for you. Video --> Reed valveSabo.  |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 5, 2014 8:43:04 GMT -6
I disconnect the lamps from his plug i have tension o R/R ALL the bulb lamps from front of scoot are disconnected including the horn...the lamps from back scoot already disconnect before he stop.
I will connect some bulb lamps...
Yes the manual is helping me a lot but does not take away all my doubts. I cant remove the slow jet but i can decogled i put a piece of bicycle brake cable on the slow jet and watched him being restricted to the bore of the intake manifold i remove all the screws of the carb including the high jet the only one I could not get was the slow jet but i decogled. I take out the reed valve and seemed clean for me i will take some pictures from she when i arrive on home, how to clean the reed valve is like clean the carb? Using a discarbonizer or a gas i saw that it has 4 blades and each of it has a screw I have to adjust something?
Sabo
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 5, 2014 5:51:43 GMT -6
I guess I missed something. Did you get a carb? Did it start? It sounded like it was running but poorly. Is that the case? Yeah! Just like that...sometimes running but poorly and stop again in very quick time. In a question of second and i not get another carb and sometimes i think he is the problem but i clean and decogled too. Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 4, 2014 15:44:04 GMT -6
Yes, I would connect an extra wire from the MOTOR to the FRAME just to have the motor grounded good. If the motor is not grounded good that can cause the spark plug to misfire when in the motor. Make sure where you ground the wire on the frame it is nice and clean down to the metal Not Over Paint or Dirt or Grease. Also make sure there is a GROUND wire from the battery to the FRAME. Alleyoop Ok i will check this and post the resulta. Sabor. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 4, 2014 13:57:41 GMT -6
Compression has nothing to do with the spark plug firing. Have you checked the ground wire from the motor to the frame. The problem is electrical not enough compression will make it hard for the motor to start or not start at all. Is that the right plug for that motor? If its to short it will ground itself out inside the head because it will not stick out enough inside the head. Have you checked the compression? If you do not have a gauge stick your finger in the hole and crank the motor over. If it pushs your finger off the hole it has enough compression to run, if you just feel a little pressure then not enough compression for the motor to run. Alleyoop I see a ground wire out from motor and he is connected with ground on bat and the others components lamps, horn, etc...the ignition coil is grounded on frame if was bad ground the ignition coil dont work! Or im wrong? When i arrive in home i will put wire from motor to frame to see what happens! About the compression i not start the motor but when rotate the magnet and put the finger on hole and have a little compression but i not start the motor to check this make diferences? About the plug i bought coincidentally the same as is recommended in the service manual for hot places (Brazil). Sabo. |
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 4, 2014 3:42:10 GMT -6
You said it has good spark with OLD SPARK PLUG but NOT WITH NEW SPARK PLUG. Are they they same LENGTH and TYPE OF SPARK PLUG? If it works with the OLD SPARK PLUG then something is wrong with the NEW SPARK PLUG. Alleyoop No i remove the new and place the old on cilinder without boot cap i take the boot cap and place on new spark out from cilinder and grounded to make tests ok i start the motor and see erroneus sparks on new one so i remove the old spark from cilinder and start the motor again with the head of cilinder open and i see good spark on the new so with compression BAD SPARKS without compression GOOD SPARKS. See the good spark with the old spark out from cilinder "no obstacles and compression" -> TEST 1See the bad spark with the old spark place on cilinder "with air compression" -> TEST 2So lets resume: 1- The eletric system seens to be ok since i have a "good" spark 2- The lamps are disconnect to avoid leakage current 3- The oil reservior was removed and the sensor for oil level too but the scoot working well without since i make my own mixture on gas tank. 4- The stator sends 50v to the R/R without compression abstacles on cilinder. 5- The pulse coil sends constants 0.1v to CDI without compression abstacles on cilinder. 6- The motor are very dirty and i clean all i can. 7- The batery looses his charge fast when i try to start the motor whit compression obstacles. 8- The batery not looses his charge fast when i try to start the motor whitout compression obstacles. 9- I place my batery to charge at night 9~10hrs of charge 10- I dont have a kill switch on rear break. 11- I do not know why she do not work.  Sabo. |
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Very nice Tach!
A tachometer would make a difference now! 
on the manual says to adjust until 1750 to 1800RPM where is the tachometer? 
it have to make some smoke correct? so my mixture have poor oil combination i will raise the mix now...The fuel tank have 5L how much oil(milliliters) i have to put for a full tank?
she has to get used to the noisy motor she still does not know that the bike will be her on her birthday, about rewire i will start from stator, pulse coil, R/R and CDI what did you think?
AAAAARRGH! My wife was right behind me! Busted....yes dear...I'll turn off the computer. Dang, Stinky
