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Post by dannytroy on Jan 26, 2015 23:07:33 GMT -6
Dremel makes a plunge router and bit for cutting through acrylic/plastics. The plunge router attachment isn't necessary, but makes clean cuts easier. Thanks, that's one of the tools not in my arsenal. I'll check that out.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 26, 2015 9:50:30 GMT -6
Yes, I suppose I should bit the bullet and order another of the same windshield. You guys talked me into it.
As far as cutting with a wire cutter, I recently tried to make one using a transformer and a guitar string. Didn't work out, so I bought a cheap electric knife from Harbor Freight. Works great for cutting foam, but I never thought to use it on acrylic. Probably not made for that though, but probably work a try. That said, if I go with another Roketa windshield, there's not much trimming required, so the Dremel with cutoff wheel and a belt sander work quite well.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 25, 2015 22:10:20 GMT -6
I'm thinking about ordering another of the same windshield, only this time I would take precautions and hopefully not crack it. I stopped the crack by drilling a hole at the end of the crack, so it shouldn't spread. I'll decide whether to get another one after my trip to the Florida Keys.
There is a ton of room for speakers on the glovebox door itself. That's what they did on my Roketa 54b. Problem is you have to deal with the wires when you open the door.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 25, 2015 14:45:27 GMT -6
I wound up cracking another 1/4" piece and then decided to mount a this piece I had on hand, riveted to the original Pacifica windshield. Well, I cracked that one too, while cutting it to shape. I learned a few important lessons in working with acrylic. 1. Don't use a jigsaw to cut. If at all possible use something like Dremel with a fiber cutoff blade. 2. Don't use a drill to drill holes in the acrylic. Instead, use a Dremel with a carbide cutting blade. 3. Try and do it in a warm room, or on a warm day. The cold weather seems to make the material even more brittle, making it even easier to crack. 4. When removing the acrylic from the oven, don't grab it by the corners. You will wind up with distorted/mis-shaped acrylic at those corners. If at all possible slide the acrylic onto your mold. 5. Parchment paper works great and the acrylic slides off easily. Definitely no sticking. So after these disasters I had a brainstorm, and I remembered I had the old Roketa 54b windshield in the attic. I installed it with some trimming here and there and it works! Of course, I cracked it when tightening one of the 5 bolts. You can see the crack on the right of the photo showing the digital voltmeter, which was installed in the dash. I took it for a test ride and it seems to be solid. Took it up to 60mph on a highway and it showed no movement. I may buy another Roketa windshield and try to make that one perfect. They are thinner than the original Pacifica windshield, but seem to be strong enough for use on the Pacifica. This photo shows the Roketa windshield mounted on the Pacifica. The Roketa now has a Givi windshield, which I like a lot. This photo shows the original Pacifica windshield taped to the sheet aluminum mold i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q746/DanTheSaxman1/windshield_and_mold_zpsc0841ef5-1.jpgNice 1/4" thick windshield, which I later cracked while drilling i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q746/DanTheSaxman1/SSR_with_voltmeter_zpsd6ab952f-1.jpgDigital voltmeter mounted on dash. Shows when both high and low beams are on, voltage dips below 12 volts!
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 23, 2015 23:11:38 GMT -6
The 1/4" is thick enough that it has very little deflection when tightening the bolts. After starting to mount the windshield I noticed it's not exactly flush with the entire mounting surface. I may start all the bolts, hit it with some heat, tighten again, and continue until the windshield is flush at all 5 bolts. If you use 1/8" acrylic, I think that would be thin enough to bend when tightening, but then you wouldn't have a strong enough windshield. Ideally, go with 3/16" thickness, if you can find it. I'm going to try to finish mine tomorrow, weather permitting. I do the sanding and cutting outside, so if it isn't snowing I'll finish it.
My trunk is very solid. A lot better than my Roketa 54B. I'm hoping it stays quiet and doesn't crack. Time will tell. I'll be giving it a good workout on an upcoming trip to Key West (carrying it with motorcycle carrier on my RV).
The helmet looks great. It really is a nice match to the scoot's paint color. I guess I have it easier, since my helmet is black, and so is most of the scoot! You are proficient enough that you can paint the entire scooter when you get tired of the color.
Yes, I have a Photobucket account. I thought there might be a direct way to upload a photo. I'll post a photo of the windshield after I mount it, and include the mold photo.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 23, 2015 9:26:31 GMT -6
Just an update on the windshield fabrication. My first try was a complete failure. The .177 acrylic is just too thick to be uniformly heated with a heat gun. You might be able to do a 90 degree bend with a heatgun, but not a gentle curve over the entire surface. I pretty much ruined that first piece of acrylic. I checked a local paint and glass store and they had 1/4" in stock and wound up with a piece that was cheaper than buying online.
This time I used the kitchen oven (taking precautions, like good ventilation) and heated the acrylic to 250F for about 20 minutes. Once it becomes like a rubbery feel, it's time to take it out and place on the mold. You can pretty much lift the corners, like a piece of rubber sheet, and place on the mold.
I made a mold using sheet aluminum, and taped the original windshield (with Gorilla tape) to get the exact bend. I secured the mold to a piece of plywood, with nails preventing the mold from spreading.
BTW, I used the same type sheet aluminum in the oven, with a piece of parchment paper over it.
Hopefully it won't crack while cutting to shape, which has known to happen when cutting this stuff.
1/4" is thicker than needed, but I guess for a windshield better too thick than too thin.
If someone can tell me how to upload a photo, I'll post a photo of the windshield and mold.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 19, 2015 22:51:49 GMT -6
Ah, I gave up on the whole upgraded headlight idea and will stay with the stock setup.
I do like the idea of the momentary switch that turns the high beam on. I guess they figured instead of switching to the high-beam, you can have the low-beam on and get some additional illumination with the high-beam when you need it. Or for signalling on-coming traffic???
While I had it apart I did install the digital voltmeter, so it wasn't a complete waste of time.
There was also a part that seemed to be installed incorrectly at the factory. The cover below the engine was installed what looked like too low on one side. The welded bracket may have been installed in the wrong spot, but they bolted the plastic mount on the shell to this wrongly positioned bracket. I re-drilled the plastic mount so all the parts meet correctly.
Hey, thanks for the heads-up on the location of the headlight adjusters. I had the thing apart and didn't even see that. While I was putting it back together I was scratching my head as to why they wouldn't give you access to the rear of the adjusters. I'll check that out tomorrow.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 18, 2015 18:57:36 GMT -6
Well, I don't' think I will be able to use any other bulbs other than what is in there now, or at least not the Xenon bulbs I have on hand. I took it apart today and found that they use different type bulbs, with different connectors on each. Even more confusing is the fact that the right is fed over 14 volts when on and the left shows less than 14. I'm leaving the bulbs as is and possibly wire it so both bulbs are on at all times, and adjust the high beam downward. I will have to check the voltage to see if this will be too much of a drain on the battery. I can remove the DRL bulbs in the front, and convert the rear to LED, to save a little voltage there. Too cold and rainy to do any more work on it today.
While apart I added a nice digital voltmeter on instrument panel area. I like to know how my battery in the scoot is doing at all times.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 17, 2015 14:20:48 GMT -6
I answered your post last night, but somehow got "lost in cyberspace"!
I had used the rubber gasket method on at least one other scooter, and I will monitor the shaking on the Pacifica to see if I need it. If you mount the box you will find that a couple of the bolt holes don't match, and require a bit of drilling. No biggie, as it only took a few seconds. The front were OK, but the back two needed adjustment.
I'll definitely post a photo of the finished windshield. It really doesn't look like it will be all that hard. I'll use the original as a basic template and increase the height and width. I'll start with 6" higher than stock and whittle it down from there. You can always take away, but you can't add to a too small size, so I like to start larger than needed.
I like your idea of modding the under-seat area. I did a similar mod on a 50cc TaoTao CY-50b. It was way too hard to disassemble the shell, so I basically permanently attached the parts, so the shell lifts out as one piece, and in half the time.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 16, 2015 19:24:12 GMT -6
I don't know of any exact replacement windshield, but should be easy to mod most that have the same general curve. Since the mounting holes are covered, you can even get away with sloppy cuts. Use the star light twinkle effect that spray paint artists use to paint the lower edge, hold a piece of cardboard perpendicular yo it and just above it, short sprays on the cardboard mist onto the plastic, then fill in the bottom to look somewhat like stock. I still haven't put on the trunk, don't like them, but may have to due to no underseat storage. I was surprised to find the lack of underseat storage. The one review of it I saw on Youtube was a dealer that really didn't want to mention that deficiency. He just mentioned the under-seat storage, saying you can store a helmet there, but he never opened the seat. I will need the cargo area and I'm about to install it after I finish typing this post. I am using, instead of washers, two 1/8" x 3/4" rods. As I mentioned in the earlier post, one 7 1/2" and the other 9". As far as the windshield, I just ordered a 24x24" piece of acrylic, .177" thick, which is the usual thickness for windshields. I did quite a bit of searching to find it, as most are either too thin or too thick. I tried 3 local hardware stores, including Home Depot, and they only had 1/8" or 1/4". Windshields are 3/16". I'll fabricate it myself, using a heat gun. With the shipping, the piece of acrylic cost $35.20. Probably cheaper than buying a ready made windshield, especially if it was a Givi or Slipstreamer. I'll post a photo of the completed windshield (or windscreen, depending on where you are!)
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 16, 2015 8:19:16 GMT -6
I don't suppose anyone would know of an exact replacement windshield for this scoot? I just put mine on and it's way too small for my taste. This isn't a knock of SSR (or Zen) because any stock windshield I ever saw, from any manufacturer, was too small for me. On the Roketa 54b (Jonway YY250T) it was easy since it's a Honda clone. I bought a Givi windshield that bolted right on. I'm thinking on this one I might wind up making my own. I watched some Plexiglass bending videos on YouTube, and might give it a try. I'm starting with 6" higher than stock, and cut it down from there. I'll use the stock windshield as a template.
One other mod I'm doing is to discard the washers that hold the rear box on, and replace it with solid steel bars, one 7.5" and the other 9". This will prevent the inevitable cracking of the plastic. Had to do it on the Roketa too, after some cracking.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 15, 2015 21:44:31 GMT -6
Nice, they came through for you too. It is great that they send the paperwork without us having to beg for them. They seem to be a solid company. Wish I knew what oil they use when they prep the scoots prior to shipment. Has to be better than what was originally in it.
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 15, 2015 19:04:09 GMT -6
Jerryscript, I bought two other scooters in the last few years from other vendors, and none were as good as Powerrideoutlet. The trucking company they use, Visionexpress in my case, does a good job of getting it to you undamaged. My Roketa 54b was also delivered by Visionexpress. Funny, on the Roketa delivery they used a tractor-trailer. I live on a dead end street and the driver had to park on the next block and wheel the scoot to my house on a pallet dolly.
As far as the MCO, I actually got mine before the scoot arrived. I had changed color from dark blue, to black/silver, so I think that held up the delivery a bit. I was surprised I was able to make that color change, since I already got the email saying it was crated awaiting the trucking company. Funny, on the paperwork attached to the crate used by the trucking company, still had the dark blue color written on it. I was half-expecting to get the wrong color, but I got what I wanted. I really wanted all silver, like my Roketa, but it seems no one has the Pacifica in a solid silver color.
I don't know exactly what mods I'll be doing, but so far I have rebuilt the seats on my last three scooters, adding gel pads, and I think I may be doing the same on this one. It feels very hard to me, but since I only put gas in it tonight for the first time, and since the weather is in the 20's, I won't be taking it for a test ride for a few days. Oh, plus the fact that I haven't registered it yet. I can throw on the plate from the 50cc scoot I just sold, just for a quick test ride. I may try to get a slightly larger windshield. I haven't installed the SSR windshield yet, but it looks a little too low for my taste.
BTW, I had already read through that post you linked to, and I agree, he did a very thorough job describing the mods. I think I will email him to ask about the lights. Let me know how well you think the lighting is, after doing some night riding.
Cyborg, I'm pretty sure you are right, about it not fitting. I can't imagine them using a double contact socket, since it's a single filament bulb. Those Zenon's would have been sweet though!
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Post by dannytroy on Jan 15, 2015 16:35:20 GMT -6
OK, my new SSR Pacifica arrived yesterday and it arrived in perfect condition. This is the second order from Powerrideoutlet.com (bought a Roketa 54B from them last Spring). That order went without a hitch also.
I had ordered two Xenon headlight bulbs and just in time to be installed on the new bike, they arrived from China today. The problem is I don't know if they can be used on this bike. The Pacifica has a low beam on one side and a high beam on the other side. I have no idea of the bulb type, so if I could mod the wiring, I probably won't have the correct socket for the BA20D. Any ideas?
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Post by dannytroy on Jul 4, 2014 7:40:19 GMT -6
I already finished the job and I have to say it came out pretty nice. I'd post a photo, but all you would see is a photo of the seat, cause it looks the same as before the gel installation. I used the entire piece, and it fit nicely. I let it go under the bolt on backrest by about an inch or so. I tend to sit back with my lower back resting on the backrest, so I definitely wanted the gel there. I used the included smoothing foam, and I'd spray some contact cement before installing the foam. Cut the foam first to get the size, before you use the contact cement. The edge of the foam can be slightly seen when completed, so you may want to have it go to the edge of the seat, or where there is a seam. You only have to remove the existing cover as far back as you want to install the new gel. No need to take the entire cover off. There are good videos on YouTube describing the installation, but it's really not a hard job. The hardest part is stapling the new seat on, unless you have a pneumatic staple gun, which is highly recommended. You can use a small compressor and it will do the job. Harbor Freight (in the US) has a small 3 gallon compressor for not too many $$$, and that's what I used for this job. Works great. I bought the stapler on Amazon, and went by the good reviews. Anyway, here's the link to the exact gel I bought: www.ebay.com/itm/321116197573?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649Now I just have to wait for dry weather to take it for a test ride, but I'm sure it will be a lot better than stock.
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