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Post by tominbmore on Apr 6, 2015 9:17:36 GMT -6
Thank you. will do! Could you explain, pretending I'm a 10-year-old, what the "ground" does in the overall electrical system? I've come across it a lot, but still not quite grasping exactly what function it serves.
Tx!
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 6, 2015 8:08:42 GMT -6
Sounds like no spark. Check the engine ground. I'd almost bet it's loose or not even connected. The engine MUST be connected to ground. The frame ground is not good enough. I'm a noob. :/ How do I check an engine ground? How do I tell whether it is loose/not connected/AOK? I appreciate your advice, man.
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 6, 2015 8:06:42 GMT -6
Thanks. Could you access that video somehow?
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 5, 2015 19:33:55 GMT -6
(5) video of me trying to start engine; (6) video of me trying to start via kick-start
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 5, 2015 19:11:26 GMT -6
Well, the pics are up, but STILL failing at getting these photobucket videos on the post. Driving myself mad. ah well, best to wait until I get the socket wrench and can check the spark plug.
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 5, 2015 14:03:47 GMT -6
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 2, 2015 7:15:13 GMT -6
Thanks all, I had a hunch that if the electrical charging components were not weak, then there would be a carb, or jet, or maybe compression issue causing the non-starts. I will get into that spark plug and see what's up. Guitarman, I can post a vid Saturday morning, when I'll have time to try to get the spark plug out and run tests on it/check it for appearance, etc. Thanks for your interest!
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 1, 2015 12:00:06 GMT -6
Thanks alleyoop! I'll give it a shot.
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 1, 2015 11:11:11 GMT -6
Thanks Cyborg!
I'll get right on to that. I appreciate your opinion about finding the right attachment for the ratchet. I'll check the manual, see if I can't get it out, then run those tests. I'm really hoping it is just the plug itself, and not something more serious like the stator or replacing jets, etc.
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Post by tominbmore on Mar 31, 2015 22:35:35 GMT -6
Hi all, I have a question about why my 2007 (I think) TGB r50x wont start. I tried to start 'er up after the winter, remembering that in November she wouldn't start, and not knowing then either what was the cause. The old problem had been that, (1) the scooter never would start via the ignition key, and (2) it used to be starting fine via kick start, but that by November it wasnt working that way either. As a noob, I tried looking through the forum and manuals, mainly getting frustrated by what I did not know. Now, after the winter, I noticed the problem was even worse. When I tried to start via ignition, the engine turned over VERY slowly, and then not at all. I noticed that the battery just kept losing its charge even though I kept also plugging it into the trickle charger. So, I replaced the battery. After doing that, I noticed that the fuse had burned out (probably because of the installing of new battery?), so I went ahead and replaced that as well. This made a noticeable difference -- when I turned the key the engine properly turned over at full speed, no lagging or sluggishness. But alas, no start. I did manage to start the scooter via kick start, after maybe the third try, and kept 'er running for a good five minutes, revving and idling, and checking my air/fuel screw to make sure it wasn't completely out of whack. I then took 'er for a ten-minute drive, with ZERO problems on the ride (no bogging down, no cutting out, etc.), BUT when I got back and tried to kick start 'er again, no luck at all, even after several tries. Thinking I might have flooded the engine, I waited for 10 minutes or so, then tried to kick start again, and still nothing. So, I feel a hunch that some part of the electrical chain of command before the spark, is to blame. (For example, I have heard here and elsewhere that at some point, maybe 2006 or 2007, the R50x had stator issues, where they had to be replaced. Could just be a bad or intermittent stator.) I also suspect that there might be a SEPARATE issue only to do with the ignition start, as I spent all summer last year, my first months with this second-hand scooter, being able to start it by kick start but NOT with the ignition key. Anyway, I'd love to hear suggestions on what you think I should try next. Feel free to ask me whatever questions you want to help me diagnose my issue. One thing I'm going to do is follow the helpful prompts from the admin from a different forum, listed here: 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/647/start-troubleshooting?page=1&scrollTo=8057. My goal is to start from "section 8," titled "turns over but won't start," and do each check outlined there. It starts with checking the spark plug, some thing I have never done because I still haven't figured out how to get a socket wrench with an attachment that can reach the bolt around the plug, which is deeply recessed inside some black plastic housing at the front of the motor. So... if anyone has tips on HOW I can get in deep to get a spark plug bolt untightened, I would love to hear it! Specifically, which size AND length of socket is needed, if anyone has this exact year and scooter. PS: I have all the manuals already. Tx for reading!
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Post by tominbmore on Aug 14, 2014 21:19:57 GMT -6
Here is a pic of the spark plug. Do I need a special tool to remove the plug to conduct the tests like you suggested?
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Post by tominbmore on Aug 14, 2014 20:34:41 GMT -6
Rich,
Sorry I keep asking questions. The "valve cover" -- what exactly is that?
Also, what is the significance of what color the spark is?
Also, can you explain the principle as to why I should remove the spark plug and crank when doing some of these tests? Wouldn't removing the spark plug interrupt a key part of the whole charging system?
Finally, what tool do I need to remove the spark plug? Can they be bought from any old auto store? Are they pricey?
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Post by tominbmore on Aug 14, 2014 17:55:36 GMT -6
Hey guys,
So I put the battery back in and checked the voltage reading again. 12.77. I started the engine. The volts drooped temporarily to about 12.5. I started revving the engine and the volts climbed but not super quickly. After about 30 or more seconds of high rpms (10000 or so), the reading had reached 13.4/13.5. I let it go back to idle and watched to see if the scooter would stumble and slowly cut off like it has been doing. Eventually it did... at a steady idle for a minute or so but then slowly the needle drooped below 2000 rpm, the engine sounded weaker, and it cut off. I promptly tried to crank the ignition again but the engine wouldn't start at all (ssame problem I'd experienced when this whole thing started).
My question is this: is this even a charging system issue? I thought thst if the voltage reached 13 - 14.5 DC volts at high rpms, then the problem is not the charging system. But here I am with this weird slow dying symptom thst I previously thought was electrical.
I'm going to do those individual tests Rich discussed above. But still, based on these readings, I have to ask: What do you guys think?
Tom
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Post by tominbmore on Aug 14, 2014 8:32:59 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop,
Got 'er charged and maintained overnight. After disconnecting the Schumacher, and waiting for an hour or so, I checked the DC output with my voltmeter. Previously it was at 12.15 DC volts. This morning it was at 12.82.
Definite improvement. After work i will re-connect the battery (I had to take it inside bc I ain't got no garage), and see if she starts and does not die on me.
If she stays alive, I'll assume the problem was solved. If she dies like she did before, I'll do the charging system test again with my voltmeter. If there continues to be a low reading with the engine revved (last time I checked it was no higher than 12.5 at high rpms), then I'll run through the individual stator/rectifier tests you both recommended, using Rich's very helpful identification of the wires in my photo.
Tx as always.
T.
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Post by tominbmore on Aug 13, 2014 19:34:03 GMT -6
Hey fellas,
I'm in the process of charging my battery (which had a non-load reading of 12.15 two days ago). It is still in charging mode, using the Schumacher charger/maintainer Alleyoop suggested (thanks man).
I'm not sure how long it should take. I have seen enough online vids now to conclude that for batteries that aren't giving really low readings, it might take anywhere from 60 minutes to a few hours to get to maintainer levels. For me it has been two hours so far… thought I'd ask you if you know how much time I can expect this to take.
Tx!!
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