Another cfmoto charging problem after HID install  By  jalat (Read 4,231 times)

They all use the normal 194's, except the turn signal/bright indicator lights. Those use smaller ones; can't remember (edit - they are 74's).

The dash itself (for the gauges) uses 3 LED's (left, center and right); just buy 3 194's that have a flat surface, like the ones with 4 SMT LED's on the face.

Note - I never really fully fixed my charging issue until I swapped out the RR for the one from OMP. Some here have done other things to get around it... aka I think Cruiser runs with only 1 of his 2 headlights on. The stock Chinese RR's on these things are definitely a weak link in the charging system.

[edit] - Here's the ones I used behind the gauges - 3 of them (not from this vendor, but same bulbs):
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T10-194-Turn-Indicator-Bulbs-Light-SMD-4-LED-White-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aabdeb658QQitemZ320711079512QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3003wt_1165

And here are the type I used for the turn/brights indicators:
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10x-T5-74-WHITE-3-CHIP-SMD-DASHBOARD-LED-CAR-LIGHT-BULB-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588e5e9004QQitemZ380345683972QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3359wt_980

Here's the guy I always order from:
myworld.ebay.com/warden_jp2002/

All good info from yoster including my running with one headlight on for daytime use. I also changed out the original fan with a direct replacement which uses 2 to 3 amps less with the same cooling power.

www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=15&products_id=1024&osCsid=2bf68d71e32fe413cbb745cbd96ddb55

LED changes and a more efficient fan should put you back on the plus side for charging.

Nice fan! Thanks!


The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

So if I need 12 more watts to save (last post calculation) I need to save 1-2 more amps. That cooling fan could do it. Stock cooling fan is very noisy. Propably really cheap construction and bad design. Maybe also huge amp user.

Hmm... have any of you guys tried that fan Cruiser linked?
Is fan easy to change?
Do I need to remove how much plastic because it is big?
Is it installed from bottom?
And does it mount good?

I ordered that 7" fan from siliconeIntakes.com. Hopefully that and dashboard led mod would be enough. Here have been really hot last days. 85'F which is not normal in Finland in june. Best you can do is ride with scooter to cool yourself. And drink a LOT of water.

That sounds good, but the HID set of mine is the one which should be connected to car. There is only one relay and one H4 connector for original headlight connector. Therefore it is connected to only another original headlight connector and I can't do switch. There is 23 000 volt current in HID system so I don't start cutting HID system wires for switch

It would be easier if you have two separate HID + relay systems. I wish I would have been ordered one like that.

But now I'm waiting for mail man to bring me:
- more led lights for dashboard
- 7" 3amp fan

And I just bought new better fusebox to replace that original glass fuse.
Then I hope I'm fine Maybe I get enough charge to drive with navigator connected and can install remote alarm

Another day for invetigating ;D

This week postman bring me that another regulator rectifier and silicone intake systems 3Amp fan. Today I decided to strip my scooter. Try that new R/R and check the wirings and stuff. Here are the results.

Fan
Stock radiator fan took 3.71 amp.
Silicone itake systems fan took 2.33 amp.
That is 1.38 amp less (-37%) using new fan. I didn't yet change it so the old fan still stays in scooter.

Stator
I used multimeter and tested all three yellow wires and when idle all of them show about 36 volts.
And when I rev even a little all of them show easily 60-70 volts.
So I guess stator is ok.


Regulator rectifier
I put hid light on and measured volts from battery.
Stock R/R 14.10 volts when idling and 14.13 volts when 4000rpm.
New R/R 14.52 volts when idling and 14.30 volts when 4000rpm.

I let that new one stay on scooter. And checked then what red wire from R/R show.
14.72 volts when idling and 14.59 volts when 4000rpm.

So I let that old charging wire stay and put another good wire also from R/R to battery. Good soldered connection and 10 amp blade fuse also.


Improvement so far:
When idle 14.10v -> 14.72v.
When 4000rpm 14.13v -> 14.59v.


But still it wasn't enough to charge when lights on and fan on.
With old R/R and fan and hid on 12.28v.
With new R/R extra wire) and fan and hid on 12.46v.


What do you guys think. If I install that new fan which use -37% less current. Could that be enough to charge Battery when both my hid lights are on and fan is on?

Yes I know. But that will be the final and ultimate solution if all the other things won't help. I want both HIDs