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Post by Bashan on Jul 15, 2014 20:35:17 GMT -6
I've been having trouble keeping the battery up on my wife's Puma 150 and I wanted to try the 11 coil stator with the 7 pin rectifier. I got one from John who runs NYC Parts.
I'll post pix of the install later but here is the 12 coil that I am taking out of the PUMA. It's never really performed like I wanted:
You'll notice no magneto coil for an AC feed to the CDI, this system is pure DC in that the CDI gets it's juice from the battery via the black wire into the two port. Of course all stators are AC, it's the CDI that gets the system called AC or DC depending on how it's energized.
I wanted to do a little preinstall metering so I knew exactly what the system is like. I was planning by this VERY simple diagram of what I thought the system would be:
That will be the new system with John's stator and R/R. You'll notice a red/black hanging off of the stator unconnected. That's because this stator has a magneto coil which can supply AC to a CDI if you choose to use it. We will let it float and not put it to use. Instead we will use it as a DC system and let the three phase aspect of the stator power the battery which will energize the black wire with the key. The black will also be the voltage monitor and control the charging via the R/R. John, I know what you're going to say but I'm 90% certain this will work. But go ahead and comment if you want to.
But first I wanted to be sure the bike is wired like I think it is. So I was pretty certain the red wire is hot all of the time off of the battery. This is essentially like the Fashion's wiring so I'm very familiar with it. So, I should get 12v DC off of the red anywhere I test because it is hooked directly to the battery. Tadaaaa:
It wouldn't matter if the key is on or off, the red is simply an extension of the battery. Now I wanted to make sure the black was indeed enegized from the red with the key. If so, John's R/R should plug right into the system. So black with key off.
And with the key on:
So the pre-existing harness should work with the new R/R. Now while I'm thinking of it I wanted to show y'all something so you don't get fooled. A three phase has continuity between the three yellows because they are connected within the stator. But you should NOT have continuity from ground to any yellow. If you do you have a short and the stator is bad. So I test yellow to ground and OMG I have continuity!!
Unplug your auto-choke if it's energized by a yellow and all is right with the world:
The auto-choke needs a ground so the yellow will show a ground through the choke. So unplug the auto-choke to test continuity anywhere in the system, it will throw you a curve ball. I'm going to use the white auxillary power feed when I wire things back up so the yellow will no longer power the auto-choke.
Chapter two coming up!
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 15, 2014 20:50:49 GMT -6
VERY CLEVER WHICH OF COURSE ..IS
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Post by Bashan on Jul 15, 2014 20:55:55 GMT -6
Carson was ALMOST as good looking as me, he was a little funnier, not quite as humble. Hey, I'm just a realist.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 15, 2014 21:01:58 GMT -6
ARE KIDDING!! YOUR SO UGLY YOU HAVE TO SNEAK UP ON A GLASS OF WATER TO TAKE A DRINK. YOUR SO UGLY YOU HAVE TO SNEAK UP ON A SHEET SO SLEEP CAN SLIP UP ON YOU.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 15, 2014 21:08:56 GMT -6
I've been properly spanked...and rightly so.....once more please....
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 15, 2014 21:10:55 GMT -6
Thats enough for tonight but don't take your shirt off
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 16, 2014 4:02:41 GMT -6
Rich nice find on the auto choke making ground , I did not see that coming . I had headlights on the brain at the moment . Is there a relay for your headlights ? I would not use the auto choke as it is now . The regulator you got from me under certain conditions will drop the ac voltage on the yellow between 5-7vac , my concern is the auto enrichener retracting . Use the white wire from the regulator . I'm interested in how my 11 pole stator fairs in compairson to the 12 pole without an ac coil to power ignition .
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 16, 2014 4:52:32 GMT -6
Haven't found a relay yet but I do not have continuity from any of the yellows to the headlight plug so I'm pretty sure they're DC headlights. If so there must be a relay because the headlights come on after the bike starts. I'm kinda mad at myself for not testing the lights before I got the old stator out of there. I could have just put the meter on the headlight plug and started the bike and seen what voltage it is. But it doesn't matter really, I'm just plugging right into the old system and the new R/R should adapt, that's what they do. Right John? Your R/R will adapt? It better buddy boy. ........
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 17, 2014 5:11:43 GMT -6
Ok your not cracking any backs today lets get on the charging system .
BUMP!!!!!!!!!!!
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 17, 2014 18:12:45 GMT -6
Onward! I installed John's stator. I gotta tell you, very nice quality, very heavy and I just felt like it would pump out some voltage but we'll see.
You see the wrapped up magneto coil to supply a AC CdI with the R/B but I'm using a DC so I'll just leave it unhooked.
Nice flywheel that comes with it too.
So here's the wiring scheme. #1 is the three yellow pig to the R/R that constitutes the three phases. #2 is the three yellows that come from the stator and supply the R/R. In addition there's a yellow/blue trigger which I used, and the red/black which I didn't. There's also a ground from the stator.
#3 is the output from the R/R and that pig pretty much plugged right into my existing harness with the red to the battery, the black from the switch, and a green ground. On a side note, I tested all of the grounds all have continuity with frame so I didn't have to worry about grounds, just grab one and hook a green to it. here's one showing continuity:
Things were going a little too smoothly, where's the snag? Enter the relay....hissssss! I hooked everything up and cranked it up and boom, I had 14.85v DC at the battery, higher than it's ever been, it was in the 13's with the old system. One problem...no headlights...dang. I couldn't get continuity with any of the yellows off of the stator and the headlight so I'm thinking DC but they come on with the stator spinning like a single phase GY6. There has to be a relay! So I take the top cowling off and...tadaaa!
This closes a DC feed from the black wire to dark green when an AC current shows up via the yellow when the stator starts spinning.
The old stator hookup used a split from the auto choke feed from one leg of the stator. I didn't hook into the three yellows on the harness because I went right from the stator to the R/R and not through the harness. So I had to make a split off of one leg of the stator to supply the relay:
So that solved the lights and then I hooked the auto choke up to the white wire coming off of the R/R. This is a handy little addition as it gives you a 12v DC feed to use in low demand applications. John, I was wrong about the 8 volts on the white, it's 12 and thanks for your advice on the relay. Here's the meter testing the charging voltage which is much better than the old system. It was 14.85 but once I got the lights on it understandably came down some::
Here's a rough diagram of the system:
Next we'll install some sliders and see how it improves hill climbing. Rich
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 17, 2014 18:59:32 GMT -6
14.5 with the headlights on that is FANTASTIC!! Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 18, 2014 7:20:18 GMT -6
Rich , I'm happy to see and say nice job ! You seem to have a knack for documentation and illustration !!! I very pleased to see everything is as it should be and went as smooth as it has .
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 20, 2014 19:00:20 GMT -6
Well the bike was running like crap today and I just got to nosing around and felt the spark plug boot. It was really wobbly so I swapped it out with a Znen boot I had. No more missing! Whew...easy fix.
Lets put some sliders in. Take the clutch and variator off:
Inspect rollers and ramp plate for wear:
Clutch pads are a little glazed so I use a sanding block to scuff them up:
Inspect the needle bearing:
Measure the belt, the second number on the belt is the width. It should be within a mm:
Pitstop time!!
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Post by Guitarman on Jul 20, 2014 19:36:45 GMT -6
I'm so jealous of your shop. And you actually own real tools! Amazing!
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Post by Bashan on Jul 20, 2014 19:56:41 GMT -6
So use a LITTLE grease on the needle bearing and any parts you can reach that do not touch the belt or would affect the tensioner arms and the bell. Also do the variator but NOT on the ramps or boss or pulley surfaces:
So we're supposed to go one gram down from the OEM rollers:
So combine the 11.3 and 12.2 = 23.4 /2 = 11.7 is about spot on. Install 11/12 and 11/12 and 11/12:
Ramp plate with guides goes on and put on the bike and button up: Got the new stator and sliders, let's take this puppy out! Oh boy, this thing is running great! Wait, what's that noise!? Eek eek eek eek. snit!! It starts losing speed, I head back to the shop and limp into the door. I pull the clutch and variator and things look OK. It sounded like it was coming from the clutch so I have to get it apart! Have any of you ever seen my clutch device? It's in the CVT board in the library. It makes getting a clutch apart a piece of cake. It may look funny but it works! Uh oh, just a bizarre coincidence, it had nothing to do with what we were doing....just bad ju ju: So the Stator from my friend John, TVnACman, gets an A+. Does everything I had hoped for and more. The battery is hot as a firecracker now. The sliders are also from John and they appear to be high quality also. I took the bike out for a spin after buttoning it back up and it ran very well but I'll have to take it out for a flogging Tuesday before I can report on the sliders. I may try an AC CDI install also to utilize the magneto coil on the new stator. Later kiddies, Rich
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