Valve Adjustment? By poppabear (Read 2,672 times)

[Alleyoop]

Just to verify .010 and .020 is tighter than your butt. The 0 in front of the number in mm makes it a smaller gap NOW if you meant .10 and .20 then I would buy it but not .010 and .020. As you can see .076 is already .003 in inchs

[czmdiver]

Oct 20, 2015 15:28:43 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Just to verify .010 and .020 is tighter than your butt. The 0 in front of the number in mm makes it a smaller gap NOW if you meant .10 and .20 then I would buy it but not .010 and .020. As you can see .076 is already .003 in inchs

Exactly why I posted this pic

[rapidjim]

WOW is all I can say, all of this over valve setting techniques.

So here is my two and 1/2 cents worth.

I work on these machines almost every day of the week, scooters in the summer and ATVs in the winter. Been doing it here for over 22 years, been a mechanic for over 45 years. If you have a mechanical cam system, at some point you have to adjust the valves. Every owners manual or shop manual I have ever seen requires a valve adjustment check as routine maintenance, I don't care what material the engine is made of, metal parts wear over time and use. Of course, just like every thing else, mileage between adjustment varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

After a lot of trial and error, I constantly use .004 inch on all 150s and 50s and recommend the clearances be checked during PDI ( I have seen brand new motors with almost zero clearance and as wide as .012 inch) , then again at about 400 miles, then very 800 to 1000. Every machine I sell off the lot is checked and then a freebee at 400 miles, some are still right on and others are off.

Take my information for what it is worth to you

[czmdiver]

Oct 21, 2015 7:24:02 GMT -6 rapidjim said:

WOW is all I can say, all of this over valve setting techniques.

So here is my two and 1/2 cents worth.

I work on these machines almost every day of the week, scooters in the summer and ATVs in the winter. Been doing it here for over 22 years, been a mechanic for over 45 years. If you have a mechanical cam system, at some point you have to adjust the valves. Every owners manual or shop manual I have ever seen requires a valve adjustment check as routine maintenance, I don't care what material the engine is made of, metal parts wear over time and use. Of course, just like every thing else, mileage between adjustment varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

After a lot of trial and error, I constantly use .004 inch on all 150s and 50s and recommend the clearances be checked during PDI ( I have seen brand new motors with almost zero clearance and as wide as .012 inch) , then again at about 400 miles, then very 800 to 1000. Every machine I sell off the lot is checked and then a freebee at 400 miles, some are still right on and others are off.

Take my information for what it is worth to you

Well this is well said and written, correct.  But
 Not over technique but the misinformation that Excessive Air is Injected into Cylinder Head Casting's and that somehow(we haven't been told the why because the misinformer Doesn't Know) Causes Aluminum Alloy's to have Excessive Thermal Expansion and again somehow this will Lower my manufacturing cost.  
Hey Hot Hod Tip. My Head is Full of Air so its Lighter and I will go Faster.
Ya right and I got a k&N air filter for ya too.

[Alleyoop]

All fine and well , but when someone comes on and posts some bad info it is best to correct them and not let some poor soul that does not know better take and or follow the bad info that may cause them worst problems.
Alleyoop

[cyborg]

That's too funny Diver,,,,i thought your head was made of wood till i saw the Childress car,,,,

[jct842]

It would be interesting to hear what alloy they actually use for the chinese engines especially in the heads. There must be hundreds of documented alloys in the aluminum familys.

Edit: pure aluminum is very soft and might explain the frequent valve adjustments.

[czmdiver]

Oct 21, 2015 18:42:21 GMT -6 jct842 said:

It would be interesting to hear what alloy they actually use for the chinese engines especially in the heads. There must be hundreds of documented alloys in the aluminum familys.

Edit: pure aluminum is very soft and might explain the frequent valve adjustments.

Silicon content . all go thru a harness process.
Pure Raw Alum in that form is Completely Unusable as a Cylinder casting,  soft as butter, Instantaneous fail.
Ive had several either Bake or Over Heat the heat treat out and its all over.

[czmdiver]

Alright I'll give this up.
Here is a Example of Casting Porosity, Zoom in the Intake port and you can see what looks like little pits.
Those are gases trapped and sometimes you can pick a grain of sand out.
This is Common in a casting, Ya don't even mess with cleaning up those little pits.


Not scared someone will copy, can't figure out my roof an floor angles or my volumes.
so have a seat with a grinder and six pac and grind away

Now this is a Billet Head, Different deal, i'm not going explain billet look t up.
Nice Stainless "o" rings to seal the Copper gasket.
I know what to do in my tune by the color of the chamber, left to right #2 lights went out. Not going to read plugs in a Alky/Nitro motor

Hers another Billet Head, OUCH!!could not shut it down fast enough as a whole bunch valve train worked down the whole bank.


The Next Level is Forged from Billet, do clutch baskets that way. Ducati owners will kill for a Forged from Billet Basket.

[cyborg]

" Ducati owners will kill for a forged from billet basket",,, Yes we would,,,,