GY6 No Spark has me stumped By bob909 (Read 629 times)

[bob909]

GY6 Has no spark.I bought a kit and I have replaced the magneto and set the gap for the pick-up to .008. I have replaced the Ign. Coil. I have replaced the CDI with 2 new units. I have tested the kill switch and it is working. I tried eliminating the kill switch wire from the CDI.
I am getting 84V a/c from the stator at cranking speed. I am getting 0.22 V a/c from the pick-up wire. With the kill wire removed from the CDI I still have no spark. I tested the Spark Plug & the Spark Plug wire.
With the wires unplugged from the CDI; Trigger pin to ground pin 137 ohm – A/C power pin to ground pin 418 ohm – Coil pin to ground pin 1.1 ohm – Plugging the wires back in Trigger pip to ground pin at cranking speed 0.022 V a/c
What else can or should I test to finally get spark?

[kz1000st]

Did you follow all the wires in the ignition circuit. If you're getting power out of the stator it may just be a bad connection.

[bob909]

Thanks for your advise and help. I ended up making a new wire harness for the CDI and replaced all 5 wires. I have a good spark and it is running again. I guess sometimes you just can't believe a digital meter they are just too sensitive.

[doublec]

Sorry to jump in but can you use a 6 pole stator with 8 pole flywheel

[mrgus2u]

I haven't read any post describing the problem I was having with a TaoTao 50 disappearing spark issue.
I had tried pretty much everything, replaced the cdi, the coil, the stator, and even disconnected the kill switch wire and replaced the spark plug, but I still had spark at times, but I would go away in the middle of the starting process. But the cause for the no spark situation turned out to be as trivial as it was disconcerting.
I am having pavers installed on the side of my house. They are set without any mortar or cement. Instead, they are installed using only a layer of white sand that serves as the cement where the bricks are layed on, but since it is not a permanent substance, as mortar or cement, a permit is not needed for the project. And here is the surprising reason for my intermittent spark condition. I noticed that after cleaning the motor with compressed air, the spark returned, albeit for a short time. The sand used to lay the bricks becomes airborne with the smallest wind, and the sand was getting everywhere in and around my house, including inside the cooling fan for the engine, in the coils of the stator and on the pickup coil and the magneto and flywheel. After opening up the blower housing, removing the magneto and the stator, I saw a fine layer of dust and many sand particles, in particular the particles that were metallic in nature. I gave all the components of this section a thorough cleaning, leaving the area absolutely clean. After reassembling everything again, I realized the spark had not only returned, but was stronger that any spark i had seen before on this engine. The sand, with its high metallic content, was impeding the pickup coil from detecting the magneto movement, so the signal for the cdi to fire and allow the coil to send the spark to the plug was never sent. In addition, the sand was actually lowering the output of all the coils in the stator, including the impulse coil that powers the cdi.
 After this discovery, i avoided starting the scooter around the house, and if was strictly necessary to start the engine , I would do so with some sort of barrier against the wind to avoid contaminating the electrical system again.
I haven't had any more episodes of lost spark since. Something so simple, yet so elusive, was creating all my electrical failures.
I haven't seen any posts anywhere, describing a similar situation. Caveat emptor! 👍

[classacted]

if you have ever sand blasted then you know how that sand goes everywhere.  the magneto, ignition switch, kill switch, etc, may be effected by dust.  I don't think they are sealed.  it seems the coil and the cdi units are.  there is a square on the flywheel that triggers the cdi unit that is exposed to the elements.

I used to ride mopeds that had breaker points and if outside air was allowed at the points, they would burn quicker.  points can be redressed, which is using sandpaper to remove the burnt metal, then use white paper to remove dust which is crucial.  I actually made my own effort to seal the compartment, but they never lasted over 16 hours of running time before they needed redressing.  I would be riding along and suddenly the moped would 'pop' and lose power.  if I kept riding it would get worse until it died completely. 

when I received the moped the points were already burnt and I didn't know how to get new ones.  a guy told me breaker points come with a hard coating that takes a while to burn, but once that happens, dressing them is only a temporary fix.  the advancement to electronic ignition was a huge move in the right direction.