Ok Need help By damin69 (Read 855 times)

[damin69]

Ok so Today I finally pull the full carb air intake all off and get it all put back on so that the Intake is firmly on the carb and not loose or coming off. That hard rubber would not slide over the carb it was kinda rounded so would not stay on and fasten down. So I got out the heat gun warmed up the hard rubber so that is was warm enough to be ply able and I am able to slide it all the way on to carb I tighten the clamp down tight while the rubber is ply able. makes it stay on nice and tight. So I get it all put back together this is the most sealed up this whole system has been since I got it home. So I take it for a spin I was not able to get it up past 55 mph. I get back into town and I come up to my turn and it Died. I have never had it die before. I get it into the garage and get it started up and it sound like this. I recorded a little video for the audio. I am thinking this thing needs a valve adjustment.




I have not Adjusted them since I got it. It has 5000 China Miles on it so roughly 3500 miles. According to Fubar he did a valve adjustment on it but with everything I have found done kinda haphazard I have been thinking it needed it for some time. That will be my next thing to try.

[Alleyoop]

Yea, I hear valve clicking but that doesn't mean the Exahaust Valve is not tighter than a drum. That is the one that takes a lot of heat and will be the one to tighten up. The Intake usually is not so bad since it gets nice and COOL gas and air coming in.
Alleyoop

[damin69]

I do feel better seeing the responses when it comes to this issue being Valve thing. I have had this funny feeling ever since I got it home and started it up. It would back fire every once in awhile.

[Alleyoop]

Damin69,
Backfireing means it is running LEAN, you may also have a small AIR LEAK someplace.
Get a Spray bottle of WATER and start it up and then Spray individual areas, by the INTAKE, By the Clamps holding the Carb as well as by the Air Filter and Spray around the Vacumm Line connections. IF YOUR IDLE CHANGES you found a Leak.
Alleyoop

[damin69]

May 10, 2011 11:58:49 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Damin69,
Backfireing means it is running LEAN, you may also have a small AIR LEAK someplace.
Get a Spray bottle of WATER and start it up and then Spray individual areas, by the INTAKE, By the Clamps holding the Carb as well as by the Air Filter and Spray around the Vacumm Line connections. IF YOUR IDLE CHANGES you found a Leak.
Alleyoop

Alley,

As stated in my top post it had an air leak. Had a huge air leak as the air Intake would not stay on the Inlet to the carb. It would do the back fire prior to yesterday when I got that all hooked up nice and tight. Now the back fire was not a backfire while running it would be when I would go to start it and it would die and a pop. Not like a backfire while driving down the road. I took it for a 5 mile trip and when I got back it was running like this. I got that all sealed up now it does not idle for crap. Fuel Mileage was in the dumper last fill up.

[Alleyoop]

AH!! Now I remember, getting old, yes the popping when starting once in a while can be caused by the valves. Once you adjust your valves it should smooth out some. But if it still idles like crap time to adjust your Carb. Now that the temps are getting warmer it is probably running ON THE RICH side. You would need to turn the Fuel Ratio Screw Clockwise and you will probably notice that the IDLE will go up. Adjust it AFTER THE ENGINE IS NICE AND WARM. You want the HIGHEST IDLE OUT OF the Fuel Ratio Screw. Then you probably need to lower your IDLE using the IDLE SPEED SCREW to where it Idles the Smoothest and the REAR WHEEL is NOT Turning. You will then see better gas mileage.
Alleyoop

[damin69]

Ok got the Valve adjustment done. Wow the Intake was way screwed up it was at almost .010. I got that set to .004 and then went on to the Exhaust. Al I can say is that valve is a Beeotch to get to.... Damn. Well that one was right on at .006 so glad I did not have to try and get in there with the wrenches.... ...

Ok now on to the fun. I did like you all set started it up seem to run good then it started sputtering then I remebered what Ally said about setting the AF to 2 1/4. So I started turning it it the sucker was like 4 turns out. WTH. I know I have not touched it so I reset it back to 2 1/4 it seems ok will have to take it out for a long ride to see.

Now my question the AF screw seems to move quite easy is there a way to keep it from turning so easy? what is the properway to ajust the carb and is the AF the only setting I need to mess with?

[damin69]

May 10, 2011 12:42:18 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

AH!! Now I remember, getting old, yes the popping when starting once in a while can be caused by the valves. Once you adjust your valves it should smooth out some. But if it still idles like crap time to adjust your Carb. Now that the temps are getting warmer it is probably running ON THE RICH side. You would need to turn the Fuel Ratio Screw Clockwise and you will probably notice that the IDLE will go up. Adjust it AFTER THE ENGINE IS NICE AND WARM. You want the HIGHEST IDLE OUT OF the Fuel Ratio Screw. Then you probably need to lower your IDLE using the IDLE SPEED SCREW to where it Idles the Smoothest and the REAR WHEEL is NOT Turning. You will then see better gas mileage.
Alleyoop

Ok Alley I tried this after I took it around the block got it warmed up. what is really weird with the scooter running I can turn the AF all the way in and the idle does not change at all. it starts to change after I am about 3 full turns out. This seems quite odd. Not quite sure where to go from here with the CARB.