Desparate for assistance...... again! By 260orbust (Read 961 times)

[260orbust]

OK so apparently I lack the brains to properly perform a valve adjustment so I most humbly ask for assistance from those with more mechanical know how than I have.

Look, I WILL be selling this god awful albatross next summer but I had hoped to at least get a couple days of use per week out of it for the rest of this summer. This would really help me save some cash for a nice used motorcycle now that I have my M1 license but at the rate this thing is going I don't think I'm gonna make it. It started stalling couple weeks ago so I adjusted the valves. The stalling went away but it would barely do 55 m.p.h! So my coworker said I have them too tight. So couple days ago I loosened them up and thought everything was good, speed was back up to 60 m.ph. but it stalled when I got home. I thought maybe the carb need readjusting but I didn't touch it. Now on the way to work every time I stop it stalls! If I wait for a little bit it starts up and once I get going it runs but hasn't really got any pull. So am I correct to assume the valves are too loose now?

Oh yeah it's a linhai clone and the intake is on top correct? And it should be set at .004 & exhaust at .006?

[Bashan]

Yeah, that does sound like valve clearance problems. Did you see this tutorial? The exhaust is .005" so try setting it to that and see if it makes a difference. The intake is correct at .004". Rich

[ce]

Too loose will just make it tick like a spastic jackhammer, but it won't make it stall, sounds like you got it set pretty good or you'd be freakin' up over the valve clatter.

So you need to set the idle up to 2000 RPMs and blind wrench the idle mixture screw to lean out the mix a little by turning it clockwise one turn.

Stay with me, I'll "show" you the ropes on blind wrenching.

You know where the idle mix screw is, right, on the bottom of the carb by the manifold, oui?

It's a protuberant screw that you can get to with your little monkey hand reaching in and down along the right side of the carb. Feel the screw and find the slot with your fingernail. You should feel about 2 threads exposed on the screw raised from flush.

Now take a P-38 can opener left over from a box of C-rations from World War II, and stick it in the slot and turn it clockwise, or right. It's kinda hard to stay oriented, because now you're blind and upside down, but just work it around with your fingers til you complete a revolution on the screw.

Now start the engine and see if it will idle at 2000, if it won't idle it may already be too lean, but wait for it to warm up and then see if it smooths out.

If it's too lean, reverse the screw to the starting point with the P-38, then go another turn to make it richer.

Of course you may just loosen the clamps fore and aft on the carb, turn it on its side and visually inspect the position of the screw, but that wouldn't be fair to all the blind wrenchers who perform this operation without looking, and you have to keep pulling the carb out to adjust it.

You can do it blind until the engine gets too hot, and then you'll be doing wounded wrenching due to the burned hands and fingers, and the pain and fear lead to inconclusive results.

[sunlproblems]

turn the carb a little tighten up the clamps turn the screw drive it if it doesnt fell rite turn the screw a little more drive it start out at 2 and a half turns mine likes 3 turns out after you get it rite let it cool put back in place done

[260orbust]

OY! I think I've been using the wrong one all this time!!!! My gauge set has two numbers on each one, I've been using .0015/0.04mm & .0025/0.06mm. Now I see one some that have .004/0.10mm & .006/0.15mm. This stuff is confusing.

[Alleyoop]

They should have .004 and .005 on the feeler gauge. Some kits do not have them that small they start with thicker feelers so when you go and buy them you have to make sure the kit has .004 and .005.
Alleyoop

[260orbust]

OK set to .004 & .005. I set it so the gauge slides sort of loosely rather than tightly. i have no friggin idea what Im doing here. LOL

[Alleyoop]

They should have a little rubbing in between but able to move it back and forth. If they CLATTER CLATTER when you start it they are TO LOOSE. A little TICKY TICKY is good.
Alleyoop

[260orbust]

Well I guess I didn't do it right cause it still isn't working right. Now it starts but as it warms it stalls and seems to have a missing problem. If I give it a little gas it stalls almost immediately. I fiddled with the carb but still it's missing and stalling. I'm gonna yank that new carb out and put the diaphragm in the old one and see if things change.

[fubar05]

wow i just came in the forum for a looksee (i used to own a 260) and i am glad i got rid of mine, you are having the same things go wrong i did.
i really loved that scooter but the thing just didnt want to stay working longer than a week! i hope you get it right but dang!

on a good note i got a used honda 250 rebel and have had a great year riding the mess out of it,it is alot like a scooter as it is light and manoveriable , and gets great gas like a scooter,

i am sure there are many scooters that work just fine but the 260 is a bust imho .

[Bashan]

Fubar! Well all right, glad you stopped in. Yeah that was quite an odyssey you had with that bike, definately love/hate. It, and you, certainly generated some good threads. Well stop in and say hi once in a while.....Mr. Honda Snob! Rich

[260orbust]

Yeah... I ended up taking the diaphragm out of the new carb and putting it in the old one. I thought for sure problems solved, I even let it idle for quite some time. So I hoped on for a test ride, went about 50 miles on the freeway again no problems. Got off with the intentions of turning around and heading back and sputter, sputter, stall! Had to be towed home. I don't care if I'm dying and that bag O crap is my only hope, I won't try to ride it again! Just trying to get it running so I can sell it.

[pudntane]

Mine was doing the stalling thing as soon as the enricher would kick off. This indicated a partially clogged jet. Rather than try to rebuild this crummy chinese carburetor I replaced the carb and all is fine now.

Ernie

[Cruiser]

Sept 29, 2011 15:50:02 GMT -6 260orbust said:

Yeah... I ended up taking the diaphragm out of the new carb and putting it in the old one. I thought for sure problems solved, I even let it idle for quite some time. So I hoped on for a test ride, went about 50 miles on the freeway again no problems. Got off with the intentions of turning around and heading back and sputter, sputter, stall! Had to be towed home. I don't care if I'm dying and that bag O crap is my only hope, I won't try to ride it again! Just trying to get it running so I can sell it.

Sounds like the needle valve got hung up. Tapping on the carb will usually get it to lower. However, this problem will probably keep recurring until the reason for the hang up is removed.