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Post by frolicndetour on Nov 3, 2014 12:55:32 GMT -6
Wanted to thank you guys for the assistance. My scoot is running now, and it seems like it was just a matter of batting the air mixture screw back and forth to find the right mixture (slowly, in small increments over time), along with the idle speed screw being set too low.
Last week I would start it for 30 seconds, and it would stall. I'd come back in about 6 minutes and try it again and it would start, lights on dash would flicker for a few minutes, but after warming up it would run strong. Never did identify why this was happening. I took it on a long ride to pick up some Chinese food, and I also raised the idle speed, and it seems to be running loud but good now.
Also, its guzzling gas all of a sudden. I couldn't get it to move from full, and now all of a sudden I'm down to quarter tank. I've only really put less than 10 miles on this tank, it doesn't make sense.
Any insight appreciated, folks!
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 30, 2014 21:57:22 GMT -6
Thank you, Alley. Any idea if it should dangle, or if it should be refitted to the air box?
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 30, 2014 20:36:48 GMT -6
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 26, 2014 19:24:34 GMT -6
link to some pictures I took of my carburetor the other day when I took it off. I'll take better pictures of the set up soon. On the thumbnail I have included, the bottom valve is the one that holds oil. I just ran the scooter and it appears wet inside but it was too dark to commit to pulling it off.
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 26, 2014 10:46:07 GMT -6
When I open the cap to the reserve oil tank underneath the seat I can visibly see oil in there. And the dashboard oil light never comes on. I do sincerely suspect this tube used to have oil passing through it, however. I'll post pictures as soon as I can.
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 26, 2014 8:49:18 GMT -6
Bashan -- It does have an automatic choke on top of the carburetor.
Alley-- It is a dellorto 17.5mm phva carburetor with an electric choke. The pictures I find online for my type of carburetor look different than mine, though. I have a valve on airbox side of carb for vacuum to fuel tap, then on opposite side I have a valve for gas line from fuel tap, and then three valves stacked on top of each other: one is coolant, and I don't know what the other two are for because no fluid comes out of them when I remove them (sorry, I am newbie). The bottom one is semi-clear, smaller, and goes into a box with no visible exterior connection at the other end, looks stained like it used to have oil in it but it is dry currently (which worries me).
I have pictures on my digital camera but cant upload them now, will do it as soon as possible and report back.
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 25, 2014 19:56:50 GMT -6
I dunno buy a battery tender? I don't know how to examine those things yet. It runs at night, but in the cold morning it wouldn't start.
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 24, 2014 18:39:32 GMT -6
I lightly seated it, then backed it out 1.5 (per my Haynes manual) and its running now for about two minutes!!!!
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 24, 2014 13:11:01 GMT -6
thank you thank you. I think you suggested I read that article in the past and I didn't understand the difference in the screws between 4t and 2t. I'm learning slowly but surely.
I have lost the setting entirely because I have made drastic turns. Where would a good starting point be? If my air mixture screw is opposite of the fuel mixture screw, then it should be only TIGHTENED by 2.5 turns as a starting point (i.e., much looser than fuel mixture screw)?
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 24, 2014 11:28:31 GMT -6
Alleyoop- I'm a novice at all this. Do you think that me messing with the settings on that air/fuel mix screw could be the culprit? I would be SOOO relieved if that was all it was.
I've read your response to pissedmopedman (link) that I need to turn it to tight, then turn it back 2.5 turns counterclockwise to find the openness it should be at. I did that, and it is still stalling. Which direction would you suggest I should turn it if it is cutting out like it is?
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 24, 2014 10:39:19 GMT -6
Received. I forgot to mention it is a 2 stroke (I tried to remember to mention all relevant attributes).
The vacuum line I used to test the fuel tap seemed to be performing okay when I applied vacuum to it. It was resecured tightly. Any other vacuum lines I should be concerned about, or other issues to look at?
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 24, 2014 8:12:29 GMT -6
Hey guys,
Working on my 2003 Derbi GP1 Predator, liquid cooled (2 stroke, 50cc, piaggio engine). I bought it second hand, and it only has ~600km on it.
At first, it was stalling about a quarter mile down the road at my first stop sign from the house. I played with the air/fuel mixture screw and idle, and it seemed to get worse. Currently, it will idle for around 15-30 seconds, and bog out. It will not restart immediately, but if I try it after some time has passed I will get again a start of 15-30 seconds, lights flicker on dash, bogs out and won't immediately restart.
I just tested the fuel tap by applying vacuum to the vacuum line and I got a good, consistent flow of gas. The flow stopped when vacuum was released. I have decided the fuel tap is in good shape.
I pulled the carburetor and sprayed all the orifices with carb cleaner and when I was satisfied I replaced it. I still can only get the bike to start for 15-30 seconds, bogs out, lights flicker and it won't immediately restart.
I am at a loss and don't know what to check next. I've decided to drain my gas tank and replace it with fresh gas because I fear there is varnish or water in the tank. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated!
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 13, 2014 4:04:34 GMT -6
The crickets in the background need a touch of oil. They're pretty loud. LOL I think you're running rich. Go to the Library here and find your carb and how to adjust it. You might have one like I did where I had to either take it off to adjust it or get a special right angle tool to reach up under it. My A/F screw was on the bottom of the carb. It doesn't sound too terribly bad actually. I think if you add some piano and a little bit of guitar, you might have a hit on your hands. See how much smoke came from your pipe? That's normal on a startup but should cut waaay back after a minute or so of running. Running rich. I checked the help library section and found a thread that stated I should try to wind back the fuel/air mix screw counterclockwise if its running rich. I am pretty sure the screw next to my idle adjuster is the fuel/air mix screw, but I'm not certain. It DEFINITELY has a spring behind it (it makes a noise when I twist it). I was playing with it yesterday prior to reading that it needs to be adjusted ever so slightly. I cranked the thing completely tight with over 10 full turns. I'm afraid I'll never find the spot it is supposed to be (if that is even my fuel/air mix screw!). I'll have to take a picture. My carburetor looks slightly different than most of the pictures I see online.
I'm done school next week and plan on dedicating Wednesday/Thursday to tearing all body parts off, pulling the carb, testing fuel cock and draining/replacing coolant. Maybe an air filter if I feel crazy! I ordered a book off Amazon that should be here by then (Haynes Manuel to twist-and-go scooters, www.amazon.com/gp/product/184425920X)
You can consider my problem resolved because I'm not really in a position to work on it right now, just fielding for advice. I'll post back to yall after I make an honest attempt! Thanks!
P.s.,I don't like hearing my own voice, so I don't record myself often. I was surprised to hear the birds and cricket sounds in my backyard!
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 12, 2014 16:51:41 GMT -6
This is me starting it up, I gave it a little throttle and it shows how quick it often cuts out.
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Post by frolicndetour on Oct 12, 2014 8:00:15 GMT -6
Hey guys. Thanks for all the advice. I played with what I thought was the idle screw and fuel/air mix screw and got the bike running for a bit. Doesn't sound right, and it kept wanting to cut out. Check it out. And like thirty seconds in I zoom in on the idle screw, next to what I THOUGHT was the fuel adjustment screw. Having second thoughts about whether it was. Derbi GP1: Current failing condition:
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