Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Mar 1, 2015 15:41:40 GMT -6
Now that the stator and regulator are new I'm having a weird issue with my headlights. They are dim, when I rev up the engine they get even dimmer or go out, and when I press the brakes they light up to full brightness. Anyone?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 23:10:28 GMT -6
Yea I have a cable between the neg post and valve cover then a wire coming off the valve cover going I to harness and another wire from valve cover to frame. I think a lot of the issues were coming from shorts in the harness behind the glovr box. I noticed my headlights flicker if I moved the harness and took all that electrical tape off to find a load of wires with groups of 2 up to 6 soldered together and wrapped with electrical tape craptily. And all at the same spot on the harness. So I re wrapped all of them and things appear to be right now. Finally.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 20:55:43 GMT -6
That's exactly how I did it. I got different readings depending on where i grounded it so then I would check the resistance between that spot of ground and the negative battery terminal and maybe 1 ohm. Then I was getting more resistance to ground with the key on and some ac voltage in the ground circuit at idle. But basically my multimeter's (two of them) showed 1-4 Vac at the yellow wire and jumping from 6-40 Vac at the white wire. Somewhere along the way I just hooked stuff up and found out that the scooter works properly. Lights and charge. But if you hit it with a multimeter it shows totally off or wrong numbers.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 19:21:47 GMT -6
The green ground wire at the regulator plug reads no resistance to the battery ground with the key off. With the key on it reads 10 ohms. With the scooter running it reads 9 Vac. From a ground wire to battery ground...
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 19:16:25 GMT -6
If I test the white or yellow wire to battery ground it does what it should- 16 Vac a little above idle. If I test the white or yellow wire to the green wire at the regulator plug (disconnected) I get 2 Vac. So you think, bad ground right? Nope the red wire to green wire at the regulator plug shows the exact same battery voltage as measuring it on the battery terminals. W.t.f
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 9:21:42 GMT -6
Gracias señor
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 7:44:34 GMT -6
Yellow and white wire. I installed new stator, same as the old one and my headlights blew and then regulator quit. I get 10 Vac during cranking and 60 vac at 3000rpm. The white wire was less, cannot remember what it read tho. Is 60 Vac going to blow out a regulator?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 20:28:13 GMT -6
The stock stator was blown that's why I changed it. But I didn't upgrade from a 6 pole. It already had an 8 pole. I just replaced it with another 8 pole stator. The lights blew instantly but the battery was charging properly. But now its not charging at all. Does anyone know how many volts ac the stator yellow wire should produce? I get 10 during cranking and 60 with the engine running. I don't want to put a new regulator on the bike if 60 Vac is just gonna blow it.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 18:16:59 GMT -6
Replaced my 8 pole stator with an 8 pole stator and the bike started and ran but blew the headlights instantly. Put a dvom in the headlight harness and saw 6 volts at idle and up to 20+ volts at 3000 rpm. The battery was seeing 12.6 at idle and up to 14.5 at high revs but then I drove it around and it was hard to restart after so I checked the battery voltage again and now it is at 11.0 while running, rev up a bit and the numbers on the volt meter start dancing. So I'm assuming I need a new regulator? But why would I need one when I have not modified anything? The bike was running fine for a month before the stator went out. And why is this thing such a piece of crap? I just replaced the spark plug, ignition coil, cdi, stator and pickup, headlights (because the new- stock replacement- stator blew them out) and the bike was charging but now is not charging and I need a new voltage regulator also? ...
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 3:23:12 GMT -6
Another update: trying to get it home and it died after 2 miles. Won't start. Before I drove those 2 miles the stator was making 83 Vac. Now it is making 15 Vac. Still getting .2 Vac from the trigger wire. So the stator itself is bad I guess? That seems to be the obvious problem. I'm just gonna do what I did before and put a DC cdi in it. My kick start is frozen anyway. Stators seem pretty unreliable I'm tired of dealing with them.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 3:00:00 GMT -6
Update: I put my aftermarket cdi on so I could use the flashing led on it as a diagnostic tool. When the scooter does NOT run, the light still flashes. The only thing odd I found was the ground wire that goes to the coil has no continuity to engine or chassis ground. The terminal on the coil itself shows 6 ohms to ground with the wire disconnected. But the wire itself does not register anything to ground on the dvom. But it still runs sometimes. How is this possible?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 0:48:33 GMT -6
I actually had that happen once so it was the first thing I checked, along with the vacuum line to the fuel valve/pump. Its a brand new coil and boot, connected snuggly on the plug. The bike is sitting at a gas station about 8 miles from my place. I'm about to go tandem on my friend's scooter to try and limp it home. I'll rum some more tests with my dvom, make sure it isn't fuel (would have to be a blocked inlet valve at the bowl) and then put his pickup coil on my engine and see if that fixes it. I am 99% sure its ignition tho because when it first crapped out my friend brought me a new plug and coil and when I installed it and tested for spark by cranking it over with the plug against the valve cover, it wouldn't light the old plug. It lit the brand new one but the spark was not strong. It was dark out and the spark still looked weak.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 26, 2015 23:24:08 GMT -6
OK I will check valves. I adjusted them about a month ago at .005". I should clarify that it doesn't simply die at idle every time or idle poorly. It will sit there and hold a nice idle and then just die all of a sudden. And when its running ill take off down the street and it has full power, runs great and then all of a sudden nothing in an instant. It shuts off so sudden it throws me forward. The trigger coil is my #1 suspect but I will look at the valves again. Has anyone removed a flywheel without the proper puller tool? The only way the trigger is sold here in town is with the stator so I may as well replace them both.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 26, 2015 17:56:14 GMT -6
The stator and trigger readings appear fine but because the problem is intermittent I don't trust them. Also I found the charging voltage of 11.9 volts at idle and barely anything more at 3000 rpm troubling, especially since the lights are just as bright as ever and get brighter as soon as the engine comes off idle. Plus the battery was totally dead before I jumped it and drove 2-3 miles and then it died, at which point the battery now had enough juice to crank for 15-20 seconds.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 26, 2015 17:33:26 GMT -6
|
Post by scootec on Feb 26, 2015 17:50:39 GMT -6
Let me start by saying I understand the function of all electrical components and the wiring of the Chinese 150cc scooters. I read thru some of the stickies on no spark diagnosis. My problem is that the issue is very intermittent and hard to chase down. Basically I was driving the thing and it just died at idle. Wouldn't restart so I pulled off the road and after looking at it for a min it started. I didn't do anything. And that is now an ongoing problem. I replaced the plug, the coil, and I have 2 cdi boxes and the issue persists. It usually likes to die when it comes down to an idle but a few times it has flat out died while riding. When the problem first occurred it would run very rough with barely enough power to go 15 mph until it died but now that is gone and it simply runs great or does not start. Its very on and off, sometimes it dies and will restart immediately, other times it won't start. The only "trend" it seems to have is basically it shuts off when warm, then if I let it sit for a few mins it will restart. If it's totally cold it will run for 2 - 3 miles before it quits. Stator wire showed 77 Vac while cranking, the trigger wire showed .3 Vac while cranking. This test was done essentially right after it shut off one time. Also after replacing the coil I checked the V at the battery while idking at it showed only 11.9-12.1. I am leaning towards the culprit being the trigger/pickup coil.
|
|