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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 22, 2011 10:09:00 GMT -6
Harley guys at work telling me to save my money and install a hair dryer instead
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 21, 2011 15:00:57 GMT -6
I haven't read any of the details on EFI conversions - have people noticed better mileage, performance or reliability?
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 21, 2011 13:12:18 GMT -6
Friend in Texas emailed a pic of his new turbo charged Mustang. I emailed him a pic of my new Sunny Snail... He says he expects me to get a turbo on it by the time I get used to these small engines. Laughing, I took a peak to see what's out there, and low and behold they are out there www.chinese-parts-canada.com/turbocharger_fuel_injection.html
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 21, 2011 10:30:58 GMT -6
Well so much for the gas n go on the new Sunny Helix. Saw a pothole too late, hit it square on really hard.
The front brake started rubbing intermittently - grind, grind, grind. Not a sqeal or squeak. Pulled over to check the caliper and anything else up front. Nothing loose. However when I pulled away the steering column made a click and over small bumps I feel like I'm hearing a tinny rattle.
Got home, took the caliper apart, nothing going on there. Noticed that when I lock the front brake and push back and forth on the handle bars, there seems to be a bit of play that wasn't there before, or maybe it was there before and I didn't notice cuz I wasn't checking for it - now all paranoid.
No shaking when driving, brakes work fine, spun the front wheel on the center stand and it looks straight, but there is definitely some noises up front along with that annoying brake pad scraping the rotor.
I won't be confident in it without tearing the front apart now, but has anyone got some ideas to steer me towards when I get in there? I was thinking head bearings or checking torque on the assembly - these are my first bikes of any kind so at a loss for bike oriented equipment.
thanks for your help
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 21, 2011 10:17:23 GMT -6
Wow, I see drivers in Vermont can be as stupid as they are down here. If it is like down here, the guy pulled over to find his cellphone that went flying across the car and clean up his spilled big gulp. Way too often drivers are rude, inattentive, and especially don't pay attention to bikes. It does take away from the enjoyment of riding somewhat that you have to be on mega-guard all the time. It's difficult sometimes but that's how you stay rubber down and helmet up. Good save there GG. Rich Had to quote this statement - my wife mentioned yesterday that people around here aren't used to looking for small things on the roads. She's probably right. Lots of double-takes from vehicles entering the road in front of me. Pickup trucks & SUV's outnumber cars here.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 20, 2011 10:46:32 GMT -6
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 20, 2011 10:17:56 GMT -6
No fancy software - just dragging the picture into Paint and using the tools there. I take them at full res so they're about 3 or 4 mb in size; I open them in MS Office Picture Manager to compress - mainly because its faster than the Canon or Photoshop types of software.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 19, 2011 20:17:31 GMT -6
Thanks for all that info. But a question or two from me now. 1. Did you have to remove the key lock in order to remove the panel? 2. If it is just a adjustment of the cable do you need to take the side panel off or can you block it with a 2X4 to hold it open while doing the adjustment? You are right about the time to tear down. If I do that I will likely do other things like flush and fill the radiator again, lube change, maybe take out the gas tank and see what I might find in it. Hose checks and changes, PDI things I short cutted in March of this spring. Pretty cold and windy so I could only take a couple hours a day when the garage had warmed a bit. So a tear down will likely be a lot more than just adjust the lock cables. But if that could be done with just removing the upper body screws and blocking the panel out so I could work on it, that might be something I could try first. I will watch for your photo's. . 1. Yes 2. Not sure about adjustment without removing the panel - maybe someone here has done this? I'll have to look tomorrow and see if it can be accessed from underneath
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 19, 2011 20:08:48 GMT -6
have to rotate the tumbler to get the spring out of the bracket. Attachments:
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 19, 2011 20:03:42 GMT -6
Long cable going to rear latch I'm not sure if you could pry the rear panel open without breaking it. Attachments:
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 19, 2011 11:09:39 GMT -6
Long one goes to the latch at the back of the seat, short one goes from the key tumbler to the latch mechanism nearest to the key.
I don't believe there is any type of a y-connector.
It is a bear to get at. Unless someone has gone from underneath, I had to remove the trunk, then the whole back panel around the seat bucket, easier to have a friend help hold that back panel because you then need to pull the key tumbler retaining clip out and work the cable out of the tumbler and then the tumbler out of the body panel - all while holding the whole rear body panel far enough up to be able to access the area.
The tumbler and retainer plate have a mathcing groove and notch for orientation. However you'll need to rotate partially to get the tiny piece of return spring thru the notch first before being able to fully slide the tumbler out. You'll see what I mean when you get there - the tumbler doesn't just slide out after you remove the retaining clip.
The long cable has an adjustment nut about mid way on it to align the closing action between the front and rear latch. I had to adjust that nut to get my rear latch to grab.
I don't believe you will have a broken rear cable, just out of adjustment. The weak link in the system is the plastic hook on the tumbler where the main cable attaches. If your side / fron latch is working, then the rear is likely not broken, there are no plastic peices in the rear cable attachment.
Hopefully the pictures I took will help. I'll try to get them up tonigh, but you might as well plan other maintenance while your in there - don't go to this trouble just to get the rear to latch.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 19, 2011 6:53:16 GMT -6
Thanks for the ideas. I probably won't get to it tonight, still have to get those a/c's out of the windows and find my tool room and garage.
Hard to want to get back at this when my Sunny Helix did a 100 mile first jaunt without an issue yesterday.
I'll post my findings as I get back into it.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 18, 2011 19:51:03 GMT -6
i would check the valves to see if they need to be ajusted Did it. Thought the same thing.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 18, 2011 19:49:10 GMT -6
Spent some time looking at the seat latches. I noticed the seat clamping hooks are molded in so nothing to adjust there. Used a flashlight and looked down into the latch areas. The side latch shows a spring stretching and some metal parts moving when I turn the key in the lock. The rear latch does not move. I can see the cable and an end container lead on the cable but it does not move at all when I turn the key in the lock. So I assume at this point that the cable is broken or maybe just disconnected from the lock itself. Certainly a covers off operation just to see the problem and then to determine what to do. So I will leave it be until I get my move to Arizona completed. Then I will remove the trunk, the deck, the side cover, just to see what must be wrong. At least it won't be freezing down there. Up here I don't have a heated garage and the wife won't let me bring it into the living room. . I'll post some pics tomorrow night. I took shots of mine apart the other day because people have been asking.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 18, 2011 18:40:50 GMT -6
A foot brake? Your chinometer is reading in km vs. mi. You're probably right - I though about that. It's very close, but still not quite right. Closer to that than miles thats for sure. Dumb thing is they put the miles as the bigger numbers and the kilo's as the smaller numbers.
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