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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 12, 2011 7:55:16 GMT -6
I would have to ask why the screen? It may seem like it wouldn't effect the cooling, however it is slowing the air flow. Did it do it before the screen? Good luck on your journey. Screen is possibly being over cautious on my part. I never drove it from new without the screen - thinking of taking it off and seeing if it makes a difference. Locally i find we seem to have a lot of small pebbles on the road. They spread stones basically in the winter as opposed to sand. Been living here for 13yrs now and have never had to replace windshields like this anywhere else. Some insurance companies here require you to have windshield insurance because of the amount of claims. My wife's hemi Magnum is a summer car on paved roads only and before 40k on it we had to get the front clip painted. Completely riddled with stone chips, mostly hwy driving. So i figured during my PDI i'd be proactive with the screen and protect the rad from the front wheel.
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 9, 2011 4:56:04 GMT -6
I've just started riding my brand new 2007 JCL yy250t a week ago, and am wondering if the fan should be running basically 100% of the time at high speeds with the outside temp in the high 70's?
It doesn't come on until i hit the middle of the temp gauge which seems normal, it will cycle on and off a few times for a while before it decides it needs to stay on. Seems pretty consistent.
It will turn off after a 50-60mph ride when i slow down and drive thru town on the way home.
Nothing seems wrong except I have a hard time believing that it should run 100% of the time at higher speeds. *** I have wrapped my gas tank 75% with thick foil and have a piece of window screen fabric in front of the rad - if this constant operation isn't normal for this bike at these relatively low temps, then I wonder if I caused this?
Just worried that the fan will burn out early if on all the time.
Thoughts?
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Post by grocerygetter on Sept 8, 2011 10:41:26 GMT -6
UPDATE - after receiving the first 2 Helix / Fashion style scooters in the first week of April, I will finally uncrate them and move on. I'll write details when I get a chance but I finally received some money back towards the shipping / handling damages to these 2 units. Not a win on my side as far as I'm concerned, but better than the offers that they made over all these months. Capital One was no help either, and we will not be doing business with them nor the PowersportsMax ever again. Details to follow soon
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Post by grocerygetter on Aug 23, 2011 18:03:33 GMT -6
For other's ref., I just bought a YTZ14S AGM from Battery Stuff. Ordered on a Thurs night, arrived at my house Monday morning. Well packaged, no damage, screw package thoughtfully taped in recess in the middle of the battery. Battery was fully charged. My scooter is brand new, never been started. Had to crank it a few times to get gas up and fire up. Battery was fine. I highly recommend both the battery and store. They have a great rep online everywhere you look. The battery is the biggest I could find to fit in a Jonway YY250T. Size: 6 x 3 7/16 x 4 3/8 " C.C.A.: 230 Amp/Hr: 11.2 Their Scooter Batteries: www.batterystuff.com/batteries/scooter
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Post by grocerygetter on Aug 12, 2011 11:32:31 GMT -6
I've kept my mouth shut on this for months now, hoping for a fair resolution. Not working out in my favor. You are playing roulette if you order from this company. Check out the complaints on the BBB. I have no idea how they can have an A rating with all those compaints. Everyone has the same issue with customer service - they put you on hold if you get thru at all, then drop your call. I called numerous times and can never get thru, then they send a 10 page letter to my CC saying I made no attempt to work with them. How do you win that arguement? They dont answer the phone and say you don't call.
However ordering a Jonway seems to be safe - ordering anything else puts you at high risk for warehouse or shipping damage for some reason.
I will never order from this store again. I am still fighting with my credit card and the store to get any resolution for the damages from the order in April on the 2 Helix style units, and have not uncrated them.
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 10, 2011 11:24:47 GMT -6
Had to jump in here as I'm finishing up a PDI.
YES - change the oil that came in it.
The test start that should have happend at the factory was enough to flush all the assembly debris down to the bottom of the crankcase.
I was blown away at the size of the particles that came out of my new engine. I'd tear down my cars/truck if I saw particles like that in an oil change. And their oil reminded me of my grandmother's sew machine oil. Their oil isn't up to your 80F (I want to move south) weather.
My rear axle (might be called transmission) oil was extremely low. Hardly anything came out when I drained it. Put in close to 3/4 of a qrt of new stuff. Part of a thorough PDI.
Paint on the crappy frame welds - yepper. Not just pretty, in the longterm those rusty welds become safety issues. Side note here on that - I bought a cheaper unit and a more expensive unit - paint on the frame considerably different. Cheaper unit already rusted at delivery. Better unit needs no paint. If you haven't bought yet, something to consider.
Depending on your wrenching ability, you really need to consider some of the things noted in the other posts. Loose nuts and bolts that can be dangerous.
Considering you're not buying units upwards of 2g's with a plan to drive from state to state or over mountain tops - I can understand not being anal about some stuff and longevity to a point, but have yourself or someone check the nuts on the wheels, steering components, brake lines etc. Stuff that will hurt if it fails. Unless you're comfortable with your dealer. Maybe ask them to show you that they've gone thru this stuff. You can tell if they're on the level by the amount of detail they can offer.
My opinion for you on oil: 15w40 - engine GL5 - rear gear/axle/transmission W/E they want to call it (this is where you likely saw the 10w30 comment) Brake fluid - after seeing the other crap, I'd change it too - DOT3 is good enough for your little jaunts Rad coolant - sounds like you're staying air-cooled so no need there, otherwise, I had to remove jelly from my hoses so it would be wise to change if you went to a scoot that big
good luck - keep asking - good experience here L8tr
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 3, 2011 16:34:46 GMT -6
thanks for posting - always intuitive to see alternative ideas
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 2, 2011 18:22:49 GMT -6
Superior started selling that unit recently too - approx $50 more than PSM, but they advertise they'll price match. It looks like exactly the same unit in both stores - Sunny brand. I forgot to mention the switches (turn signals etc) don't feel as good on this scoot as the JCL also. SO I was thinking if these Fashion clones turn out to be decent, then you could probably retro fit better pieces where necessary and maybe these Sunny models are a deal? Has anyone ever dealt with BJ's? He seems to have a lot of stuff for this style. Not sure where he's getting stuff from or if he's reputable. www.bjspricebuster.com/ACCESSARYS.php
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 2, 2011 10:47:54 GMT -6
I keep waiting for a report on those Helix clones that grocerygetter bought. I'd like to know how they do as runners. HA! - was trying to figure out why my ears were ringing all morning! I've been keeping quiet on that because they are in dispute. I agreed to replace the damaged panels on the least damaged unit, but I wanted PSM to take back the more damaged one. They want me to pay for return shipping on that one, plus forfeit the original shipping, so in a nutshell I'm supposed to be out a minimum $500 and not own the more damaged unit. I don't think so, scooter... I did want to get into the decent SunL and post build quality etc since a few people were curious on them, but due to circumstances, I left them in the crate and pushed them aside in the garage. I will say that they are not the same quality as the JCL that I received a few days after the Helix clones. You can see it in the nasty mold flashing on the handle bar covers and numerous other black plastic parts, not necessarily the outer body panels. Without actually taking the outer panels off yet, they look fairly close in quality as the JCL, though there is a a couple of paint runs and orange peel. The assembly is without a doubt sub par compared to my JCL. I don't know what the norm is to expect, comparing the 2 different brands that I bought is all I can accurately go by. I've read lots about the PDI on Chinese scoots and in fact am finding that the JCL I have isn't as bad as some of the precautionary steps advise - however I don't expect to find the same if/when I get into the SunL scoots; you can tell just by looking at them. For instance the JCL came with the recommended NGK plug. The vacuum lines are soft and have not shown any cracking even with me testing a few by pulling hard with plyers and then vacuum testing. You can see a visual difference in the SunL rubber. Fuel line I am replacing on the JCL regardless even though it was stamped with fuel line type lingo; I don't like the idea of possibly being eaten away from gas and clogging up the carb/filter. Handle bar covers on one of the SunL's have screws missing, one screw in crooked and I guess the driver torque was rightfully turned down, so due to the angle of the screw, it only went in about half way. The frames are rusted in various locations on the SunL's - on welds and in the middle of open spots that should have received decent paint but didn't. Numerous screws/nuts/bolts rusted. The speed nuts are even more inferior to the ones on my JCL - if you can believe that. The JCL speed nuts are coated kind of greenish as well as all regualr hex nuts - SunL's are not coated, seem thinner and are all rusted. ****** These are 2009 units. The JCL I bought is rust free and is 2007. Floor panel insert (black plastic/rubber kind of, JCL is stamped aluminum) is warped pretty bad and will require some heat the reshape. Not mounted at all. Not sure if it's missing screws or was intended to sit in place, but it won't. Even the key remotes seem cheaper than the one that came with the JCL. But i'm looking forward to working on the good one and finding out more, it still seems like a neat ride, but not the qaulity of the JCL. BTW - regarding the original post - the BB and Ripoff.com etc do not have good things to say about Sunny Power Sports.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 27, 2011 11:07:35 GMT -6
Too funny, now I'm re-thinking again - I was all set to hit BUY on Amazon late last night, but I had gone with a bigger unit to use with our RV batteries and the 3 other cars that hardly get driven, plus some accessories like longer cables etc, turned out to be $85, and some how I just couldn't do it and figured I'd better review my wants vs. my needs when I'm a little more awake.
I checked out that site - all the 14a batteries I found were too tall. Searched Honda Reflex and that came up with my size but only 10a. I'll measure the height available under the seat tonight, regroup my thoughts and make a decision. Thanks for all the replies and info.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 26, 2011 20:50:12 GMT -6
Perfect - thanks.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 26, 2011 20:37:03 GMT -6
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Post by grocerygetter on May 26, 2011 19:04:29 GMT -6
;D BTW - the Harley dudes and the BMW 1200 guy at work told me not to worry about a battery, that I could start my scoot with my iPod. Funny guys.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 26, 2011 18:59:37 GMT -6
I'm thinking of doing the headlight upgrade to LED which shouldn't be an extra draw on the system, being LED's - right? What about adding a 12v outlet for a GPS? Bigger battery should be better right but I'm not familiar with charging ability yet. Thanks in advance for your input Ron You can replace all the bulbs on the scoot with LEDs, but you're not going to get LED headlight bulbs. The swaps people usually make there are higher wattage bulbs or HIDs. FWIW, I think I'm currently running a 9A Autozone Battery. I'd expect it to be about on par with a Wal-mart battery. I've used Wal-mart batteries in my cars before. No real ill effects, but then I'm not trying to crank my car on a cold, sub-zero morning. Thanks for the headlight clarification. I thought what I kept reading about LED replacements were the headlights. However I did do some research on LED headlights, and found some good info. Basically they are out there, and can be made to be quite good, but not legal due to oncoming glare. I'll go 35w/35w for now. According to the handbook, I have 25w/25w.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 26, 2011 18:42:51 GMT -6
I've read up on this stuff till I'm blue in the face. One article says one thing, another says something conflicting. This is what I have distilled out of the confusion but please feel free to comment on anything on this list:- Amps will not harm your starter, you can jump off of a truck battery as long as the truck isn't running.
- Buy the battery with the most amps that will physically fit in your scooter.
- Cold cranking amps (CCA) and reserve amps (RA) are good measures
- Your charging system suffers if it is straining to charge a chronically drawn down battery no matter how big or small it is. Ergo LEDs are a good thing.
- Cheaper batteries are cheaper because they are already older and have some plate damage.
- AGMs are much better for scooters because they can stand longer periods without a charge.
- Use very smart chargers such as a Battery Tender JR on all scooter batteries.
- Draw downs such as clocks and alarms should be disabled or at the very least disconnected if you don't ride much.
BTW, I've had fantastic luck with Batteries Plus AGMs, they're a little pricey but they are indestructible. Thanks for the reply. All good points. I took a look at Batt. Plus - yes pricey $100 delivered. I paid $55 at W/M, local Interstate dealer wanted $75 for a Yuasa equivalent. I guess I'm questioning (struggling) with all this because my lawn tractor batt. = $10 from W/M after core return. My 700 MCA (550 CCA) RV batteries from Costco were $65 ea and are about 4x the size of a scoot batt. It is what it is I guess. I just didn't want to be paying too much for one of these little things due to my cycle ignorance. I'll charge the NeverStart up and if it lets me down prematurely, I'll take a better direction on the next one, probably also shoot for more amps, 12 is available correct?
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