Post by tomw on Dec 14, 2019 11:38:06 GMT -6
I have several that have come and gone as I fix them as a hobby.(keeps me out of trouble) Many have gone over the 2k mile reading on the odo. They have the standard problems of failing switches if they are left out in the rain, which confuses people when they won't start.
You can use a magnet to fish out a dropped spark plug, or a length of coat hanger wire, to move it towards the other side of the shrouding. There is an exit hole for the cooling air directly under the cylinder that should allow a plug to fall out if probed that way. A magnet is better.
You can check the valves yourself if you want to learn. There are videos and instructions all over the web. A spark plug should last a long time, around the tens of thousands of miles. Lead-free fuel killed the 20,000 mile tune up of the past. Plugs last 50-60,000 miles all the time.
Oil should be changed, the drain plug and strainer plug both should be removed, cleaned, and replaced when draining the used oil. I suggest 10W-40 with 'diesel' grading, such as Delvac or Rotells, and Wally SuperTech diesel should be fine. Change at an interval you are comfortable with. If you do short distances, and don't get things hot on each run, change more frequently. If you do longer runs, you can use longer interval. Given you can get a 4-quart jug for about $15, you would have almost 8 oil changes for that sum. About 750-800ml is all it needs, and a quart is 943ml. I guess 8 is not really on the mark. You should check the oil with it on the center stand, remove, wipe and replace the dipstick, setting it ON the threads and then pulling for reading. Do not screw it in before checking. I'd guess 500 miles is rearl short, 700 fine, and if you do longer runs all the time, 1000 miles would be adequate.
In other countries(other than USA) these machines are very important as they are THE transportation for many families. They get abused and ridden hard, and survive the least care and maintenance and thrive. Here, people likely pamper them, as the above intervals are actually easy on the engine no matter what you do.(unless AZ summer temps in stop-and-go traffic....)
Finally, keep it until you have a major problem. Do also drain and refill the final drive case with gear lube. It holds little, and is worked pretty hard. It has no filter, so any manufacturing chips and bits will get flushed out at the first change(hopefully). There may be a number indicating its fill volume, about 120ml, on the casting. Just remove the bolt that is on the bottom, let it drain, and refill using a syringe or filler until lube comes out of the filler. The filler is a bolt on the side of the case between to other case bolts that go through the close case into the other side. remove it before draining to be sure you have the right one. It is a short bolt, and it may be tight to remove. It SHOULD have a copper washer/gasket that you can re-use. If missing, it may seep lube past the head.
tom
You can use a magnet to fish out a dropped spark plug, or a length of coat hanger wire, to move it towards the other side of the shrouding. There is an exit hole for the cooling air directly under the cylinder that should allow a plug to fall out if probed that way. A magnet is better.
You can check the valves yourself if you want to learn. There are videos and instructions all over the web. A spark plug should last a long time, around the tens of thousands of miles. Lead-free fuel killed the 20,000 mile tune up of the past. Plugs last 50-60,000 miles all the time.
Oil should be changed, the drain plug and strainer plug both should be removed, cleaned, and replaced when draining the used oil. I suggest 10W-40 with 'diesel' grading, such as Delvac or Rotells, and Wally SuperTech diesel should be fine. Change at an interval you are comfortable with. If you do short distances, and don't get things hot on each run, change more frequently. If you do longer runs, you can use longer interval. Given you can get a 4-quart jug for about $15, you would have almost 8 oil changes for that sum. About 750-800ml is all it needs, and a quart is 943ml. I guess 8 is not really on the mark. You should check the oil with it on the center stand, remove, wipe and replace the dipstick, setting it ON the threads and then pulling for reading. Do not screw it in before checking. I'd guess 500 miles is rearl short, 700 fine, and if you do longer runs all the time, 1000 miles would be adequate.
In other countries(other than USA) these machines are very important as they are THE transportation for many families. They get abused and ridden hard, and survive the least care and maintenance and thrive. Here, people likely pamper them, as the above intervals are actually easy on the engine no matter what you do.(unless AZ summer temps in stop-and-go traffic....)
Finally, keep it until you have a major problem. Do also drain and refill the final drive case with gear lube. It holds little, and is worked pretty hard. It has no filter, so any manufacturing chips and bits will get flushed out at the first change(hopefully). There may be a number indicating its fill volume, about 120ml, on the casting. Just remove the bolt that is on the bottom, let it drain, and refill using a syringe or filler until lube comes out of the filler. The filler is a bolt on the side of the case between to other case bolts that go through the close case into the other side. remove it before draining to be sure you have the right one. It is a short bolt, and it may be tight to remove. It SHOULD have a copper washer/gasket that you can re-use. If missing, it may seep lube past the head.
tom