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Post by DRuben on Mar 15, 2014 18:10:00 GMT -6
So since it does have a vacuum nothing internal is bad right? I was worried that it was maybe something internal gone bad. I cant help but ask about that fuel pump, but Aircraft parts work on it? lol
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Post by DRuben on Mar 15, 2014 17:43:41 GMT -6
Ok I popped off the gas cap and tried to crank it and nothing. I then took off the inlet to the carb and its dry. I also put a new hose on all the gas tank ports and was able to blow air in it so idk about it being blocked. I might just go out on a limb and buy another fuel pump and change out the line to be sure. Is it a specific type of fuel pump that the 150 calls for or can I use parts from a local shop? I dont like waiting on shipping lol
Edit: Also the vacuum line is supposed to have a pulsating vacuum when cranking right? Or have a steady pull of air?
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Post by DRuben on Mar 15, 2014 17:02:03 GMT -6
Sorry about disappearing guys then refinery I work at had a fire and pretty much shut down the Diesel unit I was working in. I got stuck working overnight working everyday 12 hours a day to get everything back running. I got the new gasket and got everything back together and rode it around the corner and it died. I know pretty much for a fact that its not pulling gas. I have the fuel pump not the petcock thing and when I pulled the lines off closest to the gas tank it was dry after 30 seconds of cranking. I got new fuel filters and even bypassed the fuel filters to see if it was pulling gas and nothing. Also it has a pulsating vacuum coming from the intake going to the fuel pump, What do you guys think? Fuel Pump?
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Post by DRuben on Feb 2, 2014 0:32:47 GMT -6
Will do. I really appreciate all the help from everyone!
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Post by DRuben on Feb 2, 2014 0:27:32 GMT -6
The first one, dry
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Post by DRuben on Feb 2, 2014 0:06:12 GMT -6
It will probably be next weekend when I get the pics, but it is a ticking sound not a clatter. I was reading around that oil from spark plug hole was a sign of bad valve cover gasket but that was on car engines. I changed the plug a few weeks ago and it looks like the second plug on here (Dry and Wet Fouling): www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp
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Post by DRuben on Feb 1, 2014 23:02:44 GMT -6
I let it sit for about 1 hour, I was being to anxious to ride lol. And I guess yours is chrome but mine is black and I kinda figured it wasn't for oil because of the gasket but I wasn't 100% sure. The fuel filter was that way when I bought the bike and the replacement carb even came with the filter that way. Ill swap it around when I get a chance to work on it again. Also would a bad valve cover cause oil to come out of the spark plug hole. I pulled the plug and it was dry but at the very bottom of the plug (not the hole) after the threads you can see a little oil. I took the black plastic piece apart from the bike and saw oil pooling like it came from the spark plug hole. Im not sure if it came from the hole but it sure does look like it did. I also noticed that the bike had a ticking noise around the head area, it was either the head or by the cooling fan couldn't make out which one. So then I removed the cooling fan and cranked it up and still had ticking, oil level was good at the time. I was thinking maybe an exhaust leak but couldn't really tell.
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Post by DRuben on Feb 1, 2014 21:57:29 GMT -6
The gasket was missing like an inch of gasket that I tried to use silicone to fill but it didn't really workout. Its also leaking from the 2 bolts that hold the black tube on the valve cover.
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Post by DRuben on Feb 1, 2014 20:02:23 GMT -6
Great!! You can order them TVNACMAN has them and he ships fast. You can also get some ATV silicone at the auto parts store put the old rubber gasket back in and then put a BEAD of the silicone on the outside of the rubber gasket let it dry and it turns into rubber. Alleyoop I tried the silocone idea already. I got everything zipped up and cranked the bike and let it run and seemed fine until I started to ride it. I changed the oil and cleaned the filter and rode around the block a couple of times and noticed that it was still leaking. I lost almost all of the oil I put in less than 45 minutes.
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Post by DRuben on Feb 1, 2014 18:18:28 GMT -6
I somehow managed to get a grip at the stud and got it out. I did notice that the valve cover gasket is shot though.
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Post by DRuben on Jan 30, 2014 5:47:47 GMT -6
At first I did then I realized that there was no reason for me to weld.
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Post by DRuben on Jan 29, 2014 17:37:56 GMT -6
I have the 157QMJ, any mods I can buy for it? I want to mod it while its down with the oil leak, nosense in fixing the leak to take it back apart to mod it. Price of mods shouldnt be an issue also.
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Post by DRuben on Jan 29, 2014 10:36:12 GMT -6
Do the bolts in the red circles protrude past the casing that tightens to? Is so I remove that black plastic casing and use pliers to rotate the broken bolt out
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Post by DRuben on Jan 29, 2014 10:28:07 GMT -6
I have the bike stored at a relatives house and the weather has been too bad to drive. If im not mistaken did those bolts stick out past the cylinder when tightened down? Like to where i can get pliers and turn it out of the back of where its tightened. Its been on my mind for days
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Post by DRuben on Jan 26, 2014 10:01:23 GMT -6
Re-adjusted the valves and did the unthinkable... Apparently the bolts on the head don't take much torque to break. So I have a broken stud that's flush with the surface so no needle nose. Cranked it up and its spitting oil out :l
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