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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 12, 2015 19:08:54 GMT -6
Thank you for the information, Alley! After studying them (over, and over, and over, . . . ), I think I might have half a handle on the concept. The only part I can't seem to get is; how can my 12V DC headlights be running on AC power without blowing? Is that due to the "rectifier" part of the equation (isn't alternating current STILL alternating current no matter what the voltage is)?
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 11, 2015 18:57:43 GMT -6
Thanks, Alley. I guess my post wasn't clear . . . my question concerns the R/R! If the white wire goes in AC and comes out DC in the R/R I can comprehend that. The yellow wire goes into the R/R as AC and comes out DC . . . WHERE?
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 11, 2015 14:20:04 GMT -6
Greetings all! My Taotao Evo 150 has a 5 wire stator (2 separate wires and a 3 wire plug) with the plug containing green, white and yellow wires. My understanding is that green is ground (obviously), white goes to the R/R and comes out as 12V on the R/R red wire to the charging system, and yellow goes to the R/R and comes out as 12V for the lights on the . . . SAME YELLOW WIRE? Is that even possible? All of the wiring diagrams I have found all show the yellow wires on the bike connected! If that is correct, how does that wire run 12V DC and AC current at the same time but in different directions??!!?? My apologies in advance if this is a stupid question!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jun 30, 2015 19:52:56 GMT -6
Many thanks for the info, Alley! Are you saying that this could be a crankcase breather problem? I DID recently do away with my stock airbox and replaced it with a free-flow filter!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jun 30, 2015 19:26:41 GMT -6
Thanks, guys! Ordered the bearing (and seals), is this something that can be done with the engine still mounted? I didn't see any relevant articles in the archives (my favorite "crutch")! Also, I've heard that "makeshift" drivers (PVC pipes, etc.) work just as well as spending money on tools you might only use once; any thoughts on this?
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Post by jomama0867 on Jun 27, 2015 4:27:38 GMT -6
I have recently been noticing a few drops of oil on my rear wheel in the morning while unlocking my scooter. I suspected the Gear Oil Drain Bolt at first, and sure enough it was a little loose. After tightening it I kept seeing the same oil spot every couple of days, but never discovered it's origin until I was checking my clutch. The seal between the CVT and gear housings seemed to be leaking (oil on the shaft), so I ordered a replacement. Meanwhile, I coated the outside edge of the seal with some Blue RTV and checked it after a couple of runs, it seems to be holding! Problem solved? NO! When the oil spot kept reappearing, I decided to check the other side of the wheel (needed to replace the drum brake pads anyway), and found out that although worn the brakes probably would have lasted a bit longer if they hadn't been COVERED IN GEAR OIL! The leak is coming from the bearing / seal pictured below: My problem is that I can't seem to identify exactly the part to order. There is a local Taotao warehouse (handy, huh) but I haven't been able to find the part in their 3044 listed items, and contacting them (without physically showing up at the place)takes forever! If one of you "gurus" can help me identify the part to ask for (and maybe where to get it) I will be ETERNALLY grateful . . . well, maybe not eternally . . .
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 26, 2015 17:13:56 GMT -6
I'm with cyborg on this one . . . sounds very familiar, I had a similar situation on one and it turned out to be the in-line fuse inside the battery box!
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 22, 2015 8:42:34 GMT -6
You tell 'em, Alley! For the record, my scoot hits 55mph (gps verified) @ 6200 rpm's, so my point is that if I can hit that speed without 7500 revs, what's wrong with that? Sure I'm a novice, but to me lower revs HAS to be some kind of advantage wear-wise . . . right?
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 21, 2015 5:34:47 GMT -6
t84a, for the record I share your frustrations! I, too, have a problem getting above 6000 rpm's (except for a very rare occasion when I'm WOT on the highway at 3:30 in the morning . . . alone), and after almost a year of riding my 150cc (157qmj) I have come to the conclusion that "there ain't necessarily nuthin wrong with 6000 rpm's". After spending all kinds of time, money and sleepless nights "worrying" about my "low" rpm's, I didn't remember why I bought the thing in the first place . . . to ENJOY! I guess my point is that if some day by some miracle mine starts to hit 7500-8000 rpm's, I'll try to find the change and let you know. Otherwise IMHO, as long as it's performing to your satisfaction, don't worry about "details" and ENJOY THE RIDE!!!
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 21, 2015 5:04:37 GMT -6
Yep, it's a "brake" light. My Taotao "EVO" 150cc has a panel just like that, and every time you hit the brake (front OR rear) that lights up. I guess someone somewhere in the Orient wasn't sure if they were braking or not! Actually, it comes in handy because if your switch goes out (like mine did) the red light will NOT come on, letting you know that you're not showing a brake light.
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 7, 2014 9:10:42 GMT -6
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 4, 2014 14:45:25 GMT -6
Luckily, I started at the kill switch . . . loose-fitting connector! I shimmed it as a test and eureka! Thanks to all for the support; yet another problem solved by the combined collective (thank you Bashan)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 3, 2014 17:34:35 GMT -6
As I started my Taotao Evo 150 last night, I noticed my dash lights not working (usually not that big of a deal since they're almost useless anyway). Upon further inspection, I noticed that my tail light and license plate light were also out. Everything else works (brake light, signals, headlights, all guages, etc.)! I've checked all of the obvious wiring connections and bulbs and all seem to be O.K. Has anyone come across this kind of thing before? Also, I checked the wiring diagram(s) but can't seem to find anything these three components might have in common!?!
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 3, 2014 14:40:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the feedback rks. I'm still waiting on the digital tach I ordered. Meanwhile I'm leaning towards taking the advice of the majority of opinions I have gotten: "If it's working fine, DON'T FIX IT!" Now it's become more of a curiousity than anything, but from your last post it seems that my "normal" rpm range isn't that far off from yours, and that's a relief! I'll post an update after the digital tach arrives, just for any curious minds out there. Thanks again, rks, and safe scooting!
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 29, 2014 20:27:47 GMT -6
UPDATE: I changed to the 842-20-30 belt and re-installed 7 gram rollers (the lightest I could find so far). The result . . . NOTHING! Although I've managed to reach 6,500 rpm's on occasion, this scooter seems to prefer 5,000 to 6,000 rpm's as it's "normal" range. RKS suggested a faulty tach which would make sense, I just don't know how often that occurs, or even how a fault could exist (engineering not exactly my strong suit)?!? I've ordered a digital tach that should arrive in about a week. Meanwhile for all of you master mechanics, engineers and gear-heads out there, my question is this: What are the hazards (or benefits) of continuing to run the engine as-is (with the exception of the missing rpm's, the scooter seems to be performing great)?
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