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Post by cyborg on Jun 9, 2014 22:22:04 GMT -6
Jesus Mary and Josef!!!!! so the et's been running great!!,,,snappy quick off the line the whole package,,,then not so good ,,,so i pull the storage bin and the carb is coming out of the intake manifold i made,,,,, !!!!! so i limp home AGAIN and find out the promised "fuel nonreactive" rubber is getting soft and dissolving with the heat and fuel,,,nice,,,so i'm going to do what i was going to do in the first place go buy a good quality radiator hose that's the correct inside diameter and cut a section and put this psycho circus to bed i've had carbs on and off this thing so many times i literally can change it in less than 5 minutes,,,i feel like i work for a nascar team pit crew,,,,
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Post by Bashan on Jun 10, 2014 6:00:29 GMT -6
When I was messing around with that stuff I used radiator hose post carb and it seemed to work for a while but it started to get gummy. I was trying all sorts of stuff to get around the engine mount. If you promise not to laugh I'll show you one of my experiments. This is some hose from Lowes that is made for hot tubs I believe. It's supposedly impervious to everything, and it seemed to be just that. I was playing around and this was a goofy experiment:
You laughed didn't you....you promised not to!
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Post by cyborg on Jun 10, 2014 7:38:36 GMT -6
I am not laughing,trust me on this,,i brought the collar with me to work and i'm going to get some of that and also a good rad hose ,, this MFer is going to sleep tonite if i have to get out the axe ,,,,it will be done,,,thanks for the tip Rich,,,i went all clear mx bike vac and fuel lines because i felt a little degredation on the feed and vacuum lines earlier,,,i love the lowes sticker still on the manifold you made,,,,,kind of like Richard Petty meets Granny from the Beverly Hills,,,,it's a nice personal statement,,,and as a side you must have just about doubled the torque with the super long intake from outer space,,,,geez look at how long you made that thing!!!!! I can see it now ,,,to anticipate the signal,,,,the light turns yellow for the cross traffic you pull the trigger wfo and by the time the charge gets to the mill the light turns and you wheelie on thru,,,,
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Post by Bashan on Jun 10, 2014 12:28:25 GMT -6
Yeah, that was pretty much it, but once you got going and the impulses started merging it was kind of like a velocity tube! It would start hauling arse mid range but then I think at higher RPMs the carb couldn't keep up anymore and it started fading fast. Mike at BPNW said he found a 6' tube between the carb and head on a GY6 dramatically improved performance. Well 6" on that bike put the carb right in the middle of the engine mount, so that was a no go. Then I tried this and it hauled arse but the bowl ran dry:
Then I tried the other way and the carb wouldn't fit because of the motor mount:
Then I was going to have a new type of motor mount welded up but I got involved in some other project and tabled that. Oh I know what it was! I gave a GY6 engine and mount to a machine shop to build the new mount and he dragged his feet and I got sick of the whole deal and tabled it. I still have the design somewhere. I also ran with the motor mount, called a silentbloc, fixed for a while. Try that for a while and you'll see why the rubber bumpers are there. Rich
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Post by cyborg on Jun 10, 2014 14:43:12 GMT -6
turn your nuts into milkshakes!!!!!!
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Post by cyborg on Jun 10, 2014 22:01:25 GMT -6
by the looks of the last pic,,,you can run a short rubber manifold and a mikuni vm 28,,,,i went back to the vm today as i liked the better acceleration and higher terminal speed ,,,it's 2mm larger and just flows better than the tm,,,(the one i got is too small) worked great but not as fast on top,,,
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