Clinician
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 7, 2014 19:42:29 GMT -6
Do you think that the actual starter button on the right handle bar of this scooter could be stuck in the open or on position whatever you call it as I can take a jumper wire from positive side of battery to the starter solenoid wire to positive side of push start button and the scooter will then crank over and start up. If not we can not get it to start with the starter button as we just put a new ignition in the scooter because it was taken out and they used a push button start button that they wired direct from the starter and the battery to their own push button switch. We want it to run the correct way! It will run as above mentioned but we can not figure out how to do so without the jumper. We followed the testing and they are all good but still cant figure it out. I had taken pics with my phone and put them in my email but how to get them on here is I don't know...we found out that all else test good, the cdi, stator, ignition switch and the kill switch but we cant use the ignition button...the kill switch will kill it when it is running and that is above the yellow start switch we are wanting to use as it is how it works until they rigged it. How can we find the push button starter switch to see if just best to replace it as we are guessing that must be the issue but don't know how to test to know for sure....we did do the testing in the last post you answered with the link to electrical and that is how figured out it will start if we jump the switch like mentioned above....
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Post by Bashan on Sept 7, 2014 19:55:22 GMT -6
Solenoid and starter diagnostics is in the Library under electrical. Isolate the wires coming from the starter button and test for continuity. You should have continuity with the button pushed and none with it out. Follow the tutorial and it also has wiring diagrams. There are tutorials in the non-scooter board about posting pictures or you can e-mail them to me at docscomputerrepair@dwd.net and I will post them for you. Rich
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 7, 2014 20:57:44 GMT -6
Heres the pics I took...and followed directions in the tutorial...getting better!
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 7, 2014 20:58:15 GMT -6
This is the picture of the button we cant get to work.. This is the thiefs picture of their switch that starts it under my seat of scooter This is the back side of my switch, and we do know the kill switch works and this is the one where we use the jumper wire to the battery as explained in the post...wont work if we don't jump it This is a wire that hangs down by the battery...maybe its nothing or does it have to do with y cant get starter switch to work? Last picture of the mystery switch.
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 7, 2014 21:03:38 GMT -6
Doing all the things listed in that specified part tomorrow after work and I figured out the pics too and posted them. If you think of something I should take a pic of let me know but I am so grateful for you to keep helping us as I know we are pains in the ....neck! I am so glad we found this and will continue on here everynight so eventually I wont harass you and will even shut up with my postings! THANK YOU FROM BOTTOM OF OUR HEARTS>>>>AND SCOOTERS TOO!
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Post by Bashan on Sept 7, 2014 21:41:13 GMT -6
You are not a PITA, that's the way these things go. That connector that is red and white is probably not part of the problem, those are unusual wire colors for a starter circuit...anything is possible. Now I have had a lot of experience with killswitches, relays, and how they can tie in to a starter circuit. You should read this over when you have some time to kill. I would strongly suggest losing the killswitch, they are a big pain any way. I can tell you how to wire that up no problem without a killswitch. I can even get you tied into the brake light circuit if you want to do that but that's not necessary. I can get you tied to the key so hitting the starter would do nothing until the key is on. I've wired many bikes like that and it works great and there's less things to go wrong. You let me know, your decision, if you want the killswitch it will take a lot of pix and a LOT more time. Rich
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 8, 2014 8:01:50 GMT -6
Rich, I don't care about that pita kill switch but I do want it to work with the key....if it even has to not be required to pull in the brake to start idc either...my worry is that I need it to work with the key so it is not easily stolen again as I will not be leaving my keys on any tables every again.....so please explain how to get it to start with the key...does this mean we will use the button the theifs put under my seat? I do not care which is the easiest to explain...Thanks...again
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 8, 2014 14:22:22 GMT -6
ok now we have went over the section you asked us to read and did the testing there....here is what we got....When key was on pig tail unplugged probe on red wire and probe on black wire we had continuity with the multi set to 200 ohms....key off with the same wires and result was that there was no continuity between red and black. Key on kill wire b/w and ground wire (green wire) produces no continuity and if the key is off their is still no continuity at all...even if we use ground as the frame and other probe on b/w there is no continuity!
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Post by cyborg on Sept 8, 2014 14:28:29 GMT -6
I would think the kill wire is a normally open switch so there would be nothing until it is pushed,,, I also think your not getting power to the starter button
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 8, 2014 14:56:23 GMT -6
OMG....this is what happens with the kill switch test after checking it several times were sure of this ....kill switch black and white wire is on a probe and the other probe is on green wire for ground with ignition on there is no continuity...BUT when the ignition is off we have no continuity when we do the same thing.....this is off of the ignition switch pig tail unplugged! We are having opposite of the person you was talking to in the example you wanted us to read.....something is up here! I cant believe that this could of caused us the problem this whole time....we are going to wait til you respond until we do anything else to avoid us getting confused....
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 15:13:24 GMT -6
Take a picture of the CDI wires plugged in, Also test the bottom wire on the CDI on the TWO PLUG that is the power to the CDI so we know if it is AC or DC which is very important how to wire it. If it registers 12V then it is DC if nothing then it is AC.
The Ignition should always have 12v from the battery then when you turn it on it connects to usually a black wire which in turn sends voltage to anything that needs it without the motor running.
If it is DC when you turn on the KEY it sends 12v to the CDI to power it, Then to start you squeeze the brakes either one and it sends voltage to the SOLENOID then when you push the START BUTTON all it does is GROUNDS the SOLENOID to complete the circuit and it then sends 12v from the battery to the starter.
The kill switch if AC just grounds the CDI out, If DC it cuts the 12v going to the CDI for power. Alleyoop
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 8, 2014 18:54:43 GMT -6
Pic of CDI and after running the test we get 0 so thinking its AC! This test was done with the two plug pig tail that plugs into the CDI plugged in key on or off no volts and then we unplugged 2 wire piggy from CDI key on or off and received no volts that way either....therefore AC? We were not sure hwo you wanted the test done so that is why we done it above mentioned way to make sure we did it any way you suggested. Now I will move on to whatever else you mentioned in the post and if more testing then I will do so and reply
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 8, 2014 19:05:45 GMT -6
ok reviewed your post allieoops and that was only test mentioned and to get the picture too which I did...ill wait til you say wht else or for Rich to explain how to wire it to start with the key and then I should be able to ride it....remember it will start if hubby touches starter or uses wire thiefs used for their button under the seat! Ill be watching and am anxious to get it wired and hope to find out that my issue is the kill switch and nothing else esp since it starts other ways....Thanks for all your help too!
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Post by Bashan on Sept 8, 2014 21:46:25 GMT -6
Let's just start from scratch here. Can you get me a pic of the back of your ignition switch and it's pigtail? Then I need a pic right into the back of that starter button housing and a pic of the front of it. Then I want you to unhook the pigtail from the starter button assembly. Using the continuity function find the two wires switch side pigtail that have continuity with the starter button pushed and then lose it with the button released. Let's just do that and we'll proceed when I have that info. I don't want to get ahead of ourselves and get confused.
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Post by cloudnauert50 on Sept 9, 2014 12:56:56 GMT -6
If you go back to reply 3, it is the first post that I was finally able to send pictures on, it has the date of Sep 7 2014 at 1058 pm....it shows some pictures and the first three on there are of the starter button and kill switch of which both go on the right handlebar of the scooter...I am holding it in the picture and I will go out and do the thing with the pigtails and ill let you know what happens! Now, I did want to ask if you plan on showing us how to use the starter button to turn the bike on? Or, if you wanted to show me to wire it up and use the switch the thief put under the seat...its a red button and I had taken a picture of it as well.....it is posted on the same picture post and is the one where you see the red button(little) on the black plastic piece that goes under seat. I don't really care as long as using the key is mandatory. Thanks...ill get back to you on pigtails test of wires very shortly!
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