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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 13:32:11 GMT -6
Well the very first thing is to make sure your IGNITION is getting 12volts from the battery. The Red thin wire with the fuse on the positive post of the battery goes to the ignition switch. If the thiefs cut that wire and hooked it up to their switch then there is no power to the KEY. If so you have to find where they cut it and reconnect that wire so you have that wire with the fuse on it feeding the IGNITION, that would be the first thing to check if you have 12volts at the ignition switch. Now to find out how they wired it, follow the wires off their switch and post where they go that will tell us how they spliced into it. It will be very easy to get it the right way again just need to know what they cut or spliced into. It is pretty easy to steal a scoot and bypass the ignition and get it running all you need is to splice in a few wires and don't even have to destroy anything on the scoot. You can even use a House Light Off/ON switch its that simple Alleyoop
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Post by cyborg on Sept 9, 2014 13:47:18 GMT -6
Alley is correct as usual,,, you need to get 12v to the key switch,,,, then it's easy peasy from there,,,,, it's only a few wires even if you had to replace them all,,, and thieves are lazy to begin with so all the wires they cut are still just laying there,,, they wouldn't have taken the time to remove them,,,
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Say no to scooter abuse
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Post by jct842 on Sept 9, 2014 15:17:35 GMT -6
Not quite on subject but alley is right about a household light switch. When my ford tractor's ign switch failed, for almost 10 years I had a household light switch hanging from the dash. Have since replaced it with a plain ordinary toggle switch in a hole in the dash board.
The ign sw needs 12v to give to the brake sw so it can light brake lights that energize the start sw so it can energize the starter solenoid. Looking for the cut wires is the key.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 9, 2014 15:19:38 GMT -6
The reason I asked for a pic right into the back of the kill and start housing is you have it turned slightly away. It's turned just enough I can't see the connections. That's OK, I'm going to write up my feelings on how to do this and then you can take it from there. I'll get you a diagram too. I'll post it in an hour or so.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 9, 2014 17:36:20 GMT -6
This is a synthesis of what the guys said plus you will have to do some wire tracing and testing.
- Find the two wires off of the start button that show continuity with the button in but off with it out.
- Make sure that the red wire that runs to the ignition switch is getting 12v DC all of the time...key on or off, that wire must be always hot.
- Make sure the black wire from the ignition gets 12v DC ONLY when the key is on.
- Unhook the black/white wire from the CDI and make sure there is continuity between it and ground when the key is off. Reattach it.
- Hook the red/yellow wire from the solenoid to either wire from the start button and ground the other start button wire.
Attach the green/yellow from the solenoid to the black wire off of the ignition switch. The solenoid should now energize with the key on and the start button pushed. I cannot sort out what the bad guys did as far as wiring. I would just remove everything they did and take it out of the picture. I would also snip the irrelevant wires out of the start button killswitch, you only need the two from the start button. If something doesn't work you'll have to check continuity on the wires and make sure it's running to the right spot. I'll try to help but I will need pics and some more plastic off.
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