Clinician
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Post by almandel on Sept 10, 2014 9:12:55 GMT -6
Hello everyone: I have a Roketa 2007 150cc. The charging system is not working. The Battery was replaced 4 months ago, with a Yasua brandI checked for charging at the battery and it shows around 13v @ idle. When I revved up the engine the volt meter drops below 12 volts. So I checked the white and yellow leg of the stator with one lead on the stator wire and the other lead to ground. One leg only produced 5 volts, so I replaced the regulator. I know, I know, I replaced the wrong part. Rechecked the voltage at the battery and still had the same problem,of course, dummy me. Then I installed a new stator, and now either makes over 15 volts. I reconnected everything and checked the voltage at the battery and it still has the same exact problem, the more I rev it, the more the voltage drops. With a new battery, R/R, and stator, I thought everything would be ok, it's not. Can I get some wisdom this matter. Thank you in advance.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 10, 2014 14:48:20 GMT -6
Is your white wire 20 to 40v AC with RPM? If so, voltage at the battery that drops as you apply more current with more RPMs is the R/R. If you are sure of your stator voltages, and you're sure the battery is OK, it's the R/R.
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Post by almandel on Sept 10, 2014 15:05:28 GMT -6
Thank you for your reply. I will take a look again hand get the exact voltages, but one, the yellow was at or a little over 15v, and the white wire moved the volt-ohm meter a lot more, maybe double, around 30v. The old stator had only 5v on one wire. I just installed a new stator and a new R/R, and I still seem to have the same problem. I then reinstalled the original R/R, same problem. The battery is 4 months old, and seem to hold a full charge. I will load test just to be sure..
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Post by Bashan on Sept 10, 2014 18:26:19 GMT -6
I realize your frustration and I realize what you are saying. I am just stating a fact, if you give the R/R proper voltages, and the battery is OK, and the voltages drop with increased input, it is the R/R's inability to handle the load. However, check continuity between all the wires on the stator pigtail. You should have continuity on all of them. People have bought two bad R/R's in a row....it happens. It's not a complex system, the stator makes it and the R/R controls it. Hey, you don't have an alarm system do you?
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Post by almandel on Sept 10, 2014 22:31:33 GMT -6
Thank you for that information. It would not be the first time that I bought a new, defective part. I will check from the beginning, do a load test on the new battery, and go from there. And, record the numbers. BTW, no alarm...
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 10, 2014 23:29:12 GMT -6
Yep if the battery is good, and the stator is putting out to the R/R and then the R/R is not putting out 13+ or the battery to charge it bad R/R. Also if the R/R puts out 15+ it is also bad not regulating the voltage, Max you should see if it is a really good R/R is 14.7 just like a car. Alleyoop
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Post by almandel on Sept 11, 2014 8:14:25 GMT -6
Thank you for everyone's input. I think, with some insight from this forum, I think I may have narrowed down the problem to a clue.
The voltages at the R/R is the same whether the R/R is connected or disconnected.
The R/R plug, measured at the harness: RED=12.5 vdc / WHITE=10.5 vac /YELLOW=6.25 vac, at idle, same exact measurement when connected to R/R.
Again, the measurements are the same whether connected or disconnected, at the R/R. This was done with the Stator pig-tail connected to the harness, and engine idling.
Battery 12.5. Under load test - 11.7
Stator @ pigtail yellow to white - 0 ohms / yellow to green - 1 ohm / white to green - 1.1 ohms. It's a new Stator.
Resistance at R/R plug, harness is connected to Stator - yellow to white-INF. / yellow to green 1.8 ohms / white to green - INF
Stator voltage at pig tail @ idle - yellow 18 vac / white 23 vac - voltage increases as revs go up, around 30vac.
Ohms measured at R/R plug, disconnected from R/R - yellow to white .7 ohms / white to green .7 ohms / yellow to green .6 ohms. Stator is connected.
Something is happening to the voltage from the stator to the R/R
hope this info helps -- thanks in advance
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Post by Bashan on Sept 11, 2014 15:32:31 GMT -6
Thank you for everyone's input. I think, with some insight from this forum, I think I may have narrowed down the problem to a clue.
The voltages at the R/R is the same whether the R/R is connected or disconnected.
The R/R plug, measured at the harness: RED=12.5 vdc / WHITE=10.5 vac /YELLOW=6.25 vac, at idle, same exact measurement when connected to R/R. I'm sorry but that is impossible. If the R/R isn't connected you won't get any current through it and therefore no voltages. So I think we're experiencing a breakdown of vernacular on the testing. I'm assuming the above voltages are with the R/R connected to the stator through the harness. The harness connects the two components so there's no regulating device between them. The voltages above indicate an anemic stator or a bad R/R. Your stator voltages look good except I'm a little concerned the yellow is creeping up to 30v AC also, it shouldn't get that high.
One thing I would like you to try is unhook the headlights and rerun your voltage tests with everything hooked up. I'm curious if there's a short sapping the system. Just touch a probe to the R/R white, and then yellow with the other probe grounded. Then test DC on the battery.
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Post by almandel on Sept 11, 2014 16:08:21 GMT -6
Frist, Thank you for getting back to me.
What I am saying is when I check the voltage at the R/R, harness connected; then I disconnect the plug from the R/R and measure the voltage at the plug/harness, I get the exact same voltages. Both measurements were taken with the harness was connected to the Stator, engine is at idle.
Hope that helps....
According to the wire diagram it shows wires tapping into the yellow wire.
At the pig tail of the Stator the voltage is 18vac on the yellow and 23vac on the white wire, at idle.
thanks again
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Post by Bashan on Sept 11, 2014 16:11:36 GMT -6
I see, let me get back to you in a few minutes
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Post by almandel on Sept 11, 2014 16:22:56 GMT -6
thanks, I re-did my response, less confusing now.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 11, 2014 16:32:59 GMT -6
I guess I'm missing your point, this is how I interpret what your saying:
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Post by Bashan on Sept 11, 2014 16:35:41 GMT -6
OK, I read your amended version....I see. Well try the unhooking the headlight. Your right, your stator voltages look OK and then it goes to hell at the R/R. If something is pulling down the yellow wire it will pull down the whole system.
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Post by almandel on Sept 11, 2014 16:42:47 GMT -6
Great, thx for the Pics.
The first Pic is yes --- exactly
The second Pic is a NO, I disconnected the plug (separated it)from the R/R and took the (2nd) measurement at the disconnected plug/harness.
Hope I am not speaking a foreign here, lol
thx again...
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Post by almandel on Sept 11, 2014 16:44:12 GMT -6
Does it sound like I have a short in the yellow wire/circuit?
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