Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 25, 2015 13:43:15 GMT -6
Will give a little background. Scooter is 7yrs old, been running fine. Let someone borrow to take there Driving test for there licence. Went to start about a week later, and I pulled the ignition switch out of the dash. The cast metal had broke and ignition was in 2 pieces. I could not ever find the ON position of switch ( May have broke in the ON and battery may had been drained ) Ordered a new switch, put battery on charger. Just installed switch today, still everything is DEAD. No life what so ever.
Where can I start on this diagnosis. Feeling frustrated at this point. Lesson learned NEVER let someone borrow your scooter. True it's not a name brand expensive scooter, but it was a good runner just the same.
Thanks for any advice.
David
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 25, 2015 13:57:48 GMT -6
Check to make sure the ignition is getting 12volts from the battery. There is a red wire normally has a fuse about 6 inchs away from the battery that goes to the ignition check that. When things broke it may have blown the fuse so first thing is verify that the fuse is passing the voltage to the ignition, so test both sides of the fuse for flow. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 25, 2015 14:09:13 GMT -6
Just preformed some tests : Jumping coil test - Starter turns fine, so Starter & Battery are fine. Spark Plug check - NO Spark at the plug. I did have the ignition switch in ON position, not knowing if this makes a difference. I will check for spark in OFF position - I DO have spark in OFF position and scooter will run. So that would eliminate a whole other set of electronics.
So I have a switch that may just need a wire switched on, and still NO dash light or ability to start with brake and starter switch.
Now any advice, Thanks David
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 25, 2015 14:54:23 GMT -6
Look for a BLACK/WHITE striped wire that is the Wire that KILLS the motor so you need to swap the red wire with the BLACK/WHITE wire. The Red wire should have voltage coming from the battery. And the way it works is VOLTAGE is always present at the IGNITION then when on it makes contact with the black wire which in turns feeds everything else on the scoot.
The lighting usually comes from the Regulator/Rectifier or straight from the stator look for a white or yellow wire from the R/R or stator go to the front of the scoot.
Now the running lights is feed by a brown wire. Yellow/Green is your brake lights as well as the feed for the SOLENOID for electric starts which is fed from the brake switch. Alleyoop Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 25, 2015 18:43:27 GMT -6
Look for a BLACK/WHITE striped wire that is the Wire that KILLS the motor so you need to swap the red wire with the BLACK/WHITE wire. The Red wire should have voltage coming from the battery. And the way it works is VOLTAGE is always present at the IGNITION then when on it makes contact with the black wire which in turns feeds everything else on the scoot. The lighting usually comes from the Regulator/Rectifier or straight from the stator look for a white or yellow wire from the R/R or stator go to the front of the scoot. Now the running lights is feed by a brown wire. Yellow/Green is your brake lights as well as the feed for the SOLENOID for electric starts which is fed from the brake switch. Alleyoop Alleyoop Thanks Alleyoop, after switching B/W and Red wires now the ignition key is working as it should. After starting this last time I did notice lights and dash are coming on as scooter is running. So now I just have a Brake Switch/ starting problem. Now that it is darker, I did notice a green wire pulled from somewhere and was arcing against the horn. Tomorrow I will see if I can track down where this Green wire goes to. Thanks David
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Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 25, 2015 18:59:28 GMT -6
In looking at several wiring diagrams, it looks like one of the wires on the brake switch is a green one. Might be close to being able to put the Scooter together and getting back on the road tomorrow. Wife and I purchased our scooters in 2006, thought that this might be it's last time on the streets.
Thanks for the help.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 25, 2015 19:54:46 GMT -6
Usually on the chino scoots an ALL GREEN WIRE is ground, If GREEN/YELLOW that is your brake light wire also feeds the SOLENOID for the electric starter. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 26, 2015 8:16:27 GMT -6
It is a SOLID GREEN wire. Has what is left of a crimped connector on it. Wire is going down the main wire harness. I am not finding any of the Large connectors with missing plugs, or any stray wires that have a connector not hooked up. I am drawing a blank here. I was hoping that I was missing an obvious stray wire I could not locate in the dark last night, in daylight I still find no home for the stray green wire.
Do you have a clear wire schematic for these scooters. I found one, but when I zoom in on it everything gets blurry.
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Clinician
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 8:54:47 GMT -6
I agree that the solid green wire is almost certainly a ground. When you say a brake switch/starting problem, are you saying that your starter isn't engaging when you press the brake, and the starter button? Are your brake lights coming on when you press the brake?
To check that green wire, you can check it, if you have a multimeter. Do you have a multimeter? You can switch it to Ohms, and touch the green wire with one probe, and the frame with another. Your digital meter should go down to between 2-0. If that happens, it is definitely a ground wire. If your meter has an audible continuity tester, when you do what I described, it will beep.
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Clinician
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Post by davsal on Jun 26, 2015 9:12:59 GMT -6
Steven, Brake Switch/ Starting problem : No, starter does not engage when brake is pulled and push on starter button.
I have taken apart instrument plastic housing. Kick Started scooter : have found NO green wire that does not have a home behind this housing. I am noticing no left turn light, right signal will not flash. No horn, flasher is giving me an annoying buzzing sound until I pull on a brake switch.
I will do the Ohm test on the green wire, but still not sure I will know what and where needs grounded, not looking to good for the home team on this project.
Thanks for everyones help.
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Clinician
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 10:35:25 GMT -6
Does it have a connector on the end of it? If so, what does the connector look like? It could be a ground for the turn signals. It could have pulled out of a switch. If you could post a pic of the connector, that would be great.
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Clinician
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 10:42:46 GMT -6
Also, is there a green wire coming out of your key ignition switch?
You can do this. It really sounds like you have something not grounded somewhere in the loop. The key is to not get frustrated. If you know a little bit about how to use a multi-meter, you can do it! These things are not very complicated.
You should have a hot, and a ground coming from each blinker light. You should have a ground coming from your key ignition switch. You should have a ground on your horn. You should have a ground on the kill switch. I want you to verify you have a ground to each of those, then we can move forward. I'm betting your answer lies in one of those areas, and I doubt it is the horn.
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Post by davsal on Jun 26, 2015 13:03:20 GMT -6
Hope this uploads, here is a pic of the green wire and what is left of a crimp fitting on it. It goes down 3 -4 inches then joins the Main wiring harness and continues down to who know where. This wire does Ohm out to be a ground wire to something.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 26, 2015 13:59:11 GMT -6
I believe it goes on the other side IT IS A GROUND WIRE. Notice the TWO wire connector and only one GREEN WIRE that loose green wire goes on the other side of it. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 14:55:47 GMT -6
Yep, I agree with Alleyoop. It appears as though that wire went inside that clear plastic, in what appears to be a 2 wire connector. Hard to tell for sure. Just wrap it around there, and then see if some stuff starts to work better.
Then, if your turn signals still don't work, I want you to test the ground wires off of the turn signals for continuity with the frame, just like you did with that wire. Hell, test every ground wire you can find like that. You can do this! If something is not grounded, all you have to do is attach the ground wire to the frame, or another ground wire that does have continuity with the frame.
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