Unless i missed it in the text,,,engine still reving and bike decelerating,,,and as you stated (Alley) rollers worn out,,,but i didn't see that the belt was changed,,,that could be the cause of the strange rpm problems? (along with the rollers being worn),,,,
Yesterday I noticed I hear some rattling in the CVT area at idle, so probably yes the rollers... even more reason for me to get the heavier ones I want!
Some history: My belt has never been changed that I know of. I was always told it looked fine so they never touched it... that rev/deceleration problem started when the shop changed my variator and rollers about a year ago. Some random guy was there and he put in like 4g rollers or something way too light and my bike couldn't even reach 35mph and it was just revving between 7-8k with no power. Imagine riding a bike with your clutch pressed half way in the whole time, that's what it felt like! So I went back and said the guy must've put way too light of rollers in, and so they put a different variator and different rollers in, and it still felt wrong, but improved. I went back again and asked for heavier rollers, and instead they ordered the stock rollers and put those in, which is what I still have now, but it always still felt too revvy to me. They refused to work on it any further when I asked again for heavier rollers. This is why I wanna do this myself! Tired of dealing with the people at these shops lol.
Here is a picture of the belt from when I was down in it the other day.. what do you think?
i would measure the width,,,looks well worn to me and i'll put a 20 spot on that with the roller problem is where your rpm's going up while the bike is slowing down,,,thats where i would think the performance is suffering,,,,new rollers as per Alleys suggestion and a new quality belt and BAM!!! you be in business again
i would measure the width,,,looks well worn to me and i'll put a 20 spot on that with the roller problem is where your rpm's going up while the bike is slowing down,,,thats where i would think the performance is suffering,,,,new rollers as per Alleys suggestion and a new quality belt and BAM!!! you be in business again
Belt: Thank you, I'll see about getting a new belt as well. This one's been through 12,000 miles. Do I just check the printing on the belt to see what type I need? I never thought to look. I'm not sure how to measure the width because I only have a standard tape measure with inches/cm... or will that work? ...or is there simply a standard that most scooters use? I see a lot of 842-20-30 on eBay...
Brake switches: I ordered a front brake switch, only $5 yay! I'm gonna take another look at the rear brake lever and switch and see if I can understand it better... mine seems to be pretty messed up, so I don't understand how it's supposed to work or look like, which makes me afraid to order a new one on my own. I can't find any videos on it for scooters... maybe I'll make one myself eventually.
Alleyoop - I just ordered the CVT removal tool. Thank you for that!
Last Edit: Oct 13, 2015 19:46:15 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
rosiemoto When it comes to CVT Belt becareful of Cheap Belts. I had gotten a cheap belt and it shredded and got all messed up in the Clutch and variator it was a mess. I Personally like the Gate Powerlink I have gotten really good deals on them in the past. Good luck.
Todd Fiebranz
Primary Rider Yamaha Vstar 650 Classic (Sorry Not a Scooter) Linhai Mainstreet 260 (Sold)Jonway YY250T Ranger (SOLD THE POS)Roketa MC-62-250 (VOG 260)
I'll keep that brand in mind when I get to it, thank you.
My brake light is stuck on now that my rear brake switch isn't holding itself in. But with this constant brake light is also my battery draining quickly. I rode for 2 hours today and it's close to unable to start my bike. I'll just have to tape it for now like Alleyoop suggested. I just ordered a new one, should be here by next week. A new front switch is already on its way.
When I look at the product on eBay, it has a "barrel" with the switch popping out of the edge. Mine doesn't have that barrel at all like it rotted away and fell off over time... and I think that's why it's not staying in place. So when I pulled out the switch for the first time the other day, I bet the stuff that fell out from in there was the remains of the barrel. Once that stuff fell out, it lost its grip to stay in place entirely, so brake light = always on now.
Okay I received the rear brake switch I ordered and figured out how it all works and even managed to put the broken one back together, kinda. The problem is the "barrel" has separated from the rest of the piece and so I think that's why the whole thing isn't holding itself in place and making the brake light not work.
BUT, PROBLEM. My switch's connectors are different than the one I bought. Mine has little metal clips that slide and clip themselves into a plastic thing, and the new one has metal round poles instead of the clips. Please see this short 1 min video I made... at the end of the video I got an idea how to repair my old one to work... please let me know if it would work!
Post by trashtruck12172 on Oct 16, 2015 16:19:51 GMT -6
can you cut the electrical connectors off the old switch (giving yourself plenty of wire to work with) and splice them onto the new switch? seems to me this would be the easiest thing to do.
After NASA spent more than $300.00 each, I'm wondering why astronauts need shovels?
Like said above you could cut and strip and then twist them together and tape or even to the local auto supply store and pick up some Crimp on butt connectors like BUTT Connector
Todd Fiebranz
Primary Rider Yamaha Vstar 650 Classic (Sorry Not a Scooter) Linhai Mainstreet 260 (Sold)Jonway YY250T Ranger (SOLD THE POS)Roketa MC-62-250 (VOG 260)
You want to use the NEW SWITCH. The old switch may go in and out "BUT IS IT MAKING CONTACT INSIDE" to pass the voltage out to the BRAKE LIGHTS AND SOLENOID?
So I would use the NEW SWITCH and just cut the connectors on the old one about 2 inchs down from the connectors then cut the connectors OFF on the new one and splice in the OLD CONNECTORS ONTO THE NEW SWITCH. Just need to then tape up the connections where you splice them. Alleyoop
CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO EXPAND IT AND READ IT BETTER:
..BAD TO THE BONE..
