GY6 Electrical Question By andro (Read 1,365 times)

[andro]

Thanks ahead of time for any guidance you can get me.

Here's my issue: Hopped on the scoot last week to run down the street... no front lights at all. No running, no low beam or high beam. In the last few months the scoot has been suffering from low light levels at low RPM (almost non-existent) to fair light levels at 3k RPM.

Here's what I have done so far:

1. Ran continuity checks on my light switch - pass.
2. Pull the front faring and checked the lights on a power source - pass.

What I am looking for now is guidance on the next best spot to be looking. Wiring seems to really intimidate me on this because it seems so darn unstable.

Is my best bet to pull and test the stator?

~Andro

[trashtruck12172]

before throwing money at it check your grounds.

[andro]

Any clue where all the grounds are or am I stuck pulling the whole body off the scoot?

[Alleyoop]

The grounds are usually on the side of the frame usually on the rights side. Follow some green wires to the frame and you should see where they are grounded to the frame also the battery negative wire may be attached there as well.

But I have to say what your experiencing is most likely a bad Regulator/Rectifier and or Stator.

Now to test the stator you do NOT HAVE TO TAKE IT out, just unplug it from the harness and start the scoot and test the yellow and white wire. Set the MULTI METER to VAC and at idle it should register around 25+ VAC then REV it up to around 4K-5K and it should register around 50+VAC. If it does then your problem is the Regulator/Rectifier.
Alleyoop

scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/11757/test-single-phase-stator

[andro]

Before I disconnect the RR and rev the engine, should I remove the lights from the front? The forward lights are on the AC circuit, correct?

~A

[andro]

Also.... found this video:

Is it a good resource?

[Alleyoop]

LIke I said you do not have to take all that crap off, just unplug the stator wires like in the VIDEO I PUT UP. The two seperate wires leave plugged one goes to the CDI for power and the other is the Coil Pick wire al;so going to the CDI WHICH ARE NOT YOUR PROBLEM so leave those plugged in. But if you want to go through taking stuff off then go for it.
Alleyoop

[andro]

Jan 25, 2016 14:35:37 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

LIke I said you do not have to take all that crap off, just unplug the stator wires like in the VIDEO I PUT UP. The two seperate wires leave plugged one goes to the CDI for power and the other is the Coil Pick wire al;so going to the CDI WHICH ARE NOT YOUR PROBLEM so leave those plugged in. But if you want to go through taking stuff off then go for it.
Alleyoop

I wasn't looking to go the long route. I more meant as a resource...

I plan to test the RR like you suggest, as it makes total sense. I'll post my outcome.

[andro]

Performed the test, same results yellow and white.

Idle volts 16v
5500 rpm volts - 27v


No no difference in voltage at battery when running or off. (12.8v)

[Alleyoop]

Did you set the meter to VAC and not DC? If you got 27VAC at 5500 rpms then you have a bad stator.
Alleyoop

[andro]

Yeah, it was VAC... I'll start tearing down to look at the stator

[andro]

Quick Follow-up, since I am already in this about the headlights.

When I tested the headlights (I have 2 S1 25/25) I tested the bulbs and the leads...

Side of the bulb being ground... I pushed positive 12v to each lead... the bulb only lit up on one of the leads... does this mean the other filament is busted and I should find new bulbs?

If so... recommend a brighter replacement that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

[Alleyoop]

s1 35/35w google for them for the cheapest price

[andro]

Jan 26, 2016 12:20:35 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

s1 35/35w google for them for the cheapest price

Each of the searches I have tried returns S2 35/35w - are the S2 and S1 compatible?

[andro]

Never mind.... found that both the S1 and S2 use the BA20d base. 



en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_automotive_light_bulb_types