Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 5, 2011 15:03:35 GMT -6
I still have not gotten to ride this thing yet. Too cold but getting close.
No radiator or hose leaking found by 'search'.
I noticed two days ago that there was a coolant leak directly under the motor. Not much, just a few drops. Today I was in the garage and saw another puddle but this time under the reservoir area but it was more to the right like under the gas tank.
And it has not been run these last few days.
So before I do start riding and have bad experience I would like to go over the hoses and clamps to see what might be the problem.
What is the best way to do that. Are there some covers I could remove? Like the bottom splash cover or the floor pad over the reservoir and gas tank. What ever someone thinks will make hose and radiator checking possible. .
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Post by Cruiser on Mar 5, 2011 19:47:49 GMT -6
No need to remove the belly pan on the YY250T. Here's what it looks like with just the floor and side pans removed.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 7:06:47 GMT -6
Thanks for the responses. Today I will begin to remove the top cover over the gas tank. I will then find out just how much work that might be and if I need to remove other panels as well.
Good time for me to learn about how this machine was assembled. This should make me feel better about any future fixings to do if required.
Thanks to both of you. .
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 10:36:34 GMT -6
More advice needed, probably from Cruiser.
I have removed many screws and have the lower panels and the plastic loose, almost. I was wondering you you got your seat to go so far over. My seat only goes up about 3/4 of the way. I also noticed that there are three bolts down from the seat into the hing bracket. I am thinking about removing the seat to make more clearance for removal and install.
My question at this time is how did you remove that large mass of plastic from the scooter. Did you roll it forward or did you roll it backward. Right now I still have some material under the right rear side panel. With the seat off I should be able to loosen that side. Then the other place is at the front by the overflow tank and gas tank. It seems to be tight even though I have pried those alignment tabs apart. So my question of rolling it forward or backward. I was thinking that I needed to clear those filler tubes before removing either way but it is not co-operating at this time.
Reinstall will likely be another problem. Getting all those alignment tabs reconnected. This must have been one of the first items to be installed at the factory as it seems that just about everything is on top of it.
So if you have any hints that might help I would appreciate them.
EDIT TO ADD: I took the seat off and that was a great help. Then I got stuck trying to get the floor cover off the overflow bottle. The lip around the floor piece was caught on the ridge of the bottle. I will cut that opening in the floor to allow more mismatch without jamming.
Now to look everything over and find the problem.
Thanks for the help. .
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 12:40:37 GMT -6
Inspection results. No water leaks at all that I could find. So I cleaned up the mess on the bottom and dried as much as I could. The cloth under the scooter had a yellow like coolant but had sour smell and I thought I was glad I was about to drain and refill.
But a few minutes later I saw a drop off the bottom of the gas tank. I traced that back up and found fluid just below the fuel gauge port. Some screws were loose and some were snug. I went over all four screws and tightened them. Then I dried the tank and the bottom off real well. I will wait a while and then look again. If I am lucky I have a dry tank, if not then I will probably need to get new gaskets for the gauge assembly and reinstall it.
Time will tell. .
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 13:55:23 GMT -6
Time is against me. The area below the gauge assembly continues to be wet. Now I think it is coming from the area where the cable goes in. Can that item be tightened? I lookes like plastic so I am afraid to mess with it.
If it were just from the gasket area I would try JB Weld first and if that failed I would order a new gauge and gaskets, But since it seems to be leaking from the center cable port I am not sure where next except order a new gauge assembly.
Any ideas on this? Or the best place to order fuel sensor? .
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 6, 2011 16:54:10 GMT -6
Bobf, Do you have the SQUARE cover that holds the sensor in and the 4 screws? If so you can take it out and actually make the round gaskets out of gasket material from an auto parts place.
Another thing about tighten those 4 screws, you have to tighten them evenly otherwise it will leak. I know I have done it many times. I have tighten them and then filled it up to cover the inlet only to find it was still leaking. So I looked to see were it was leaking from the top part or bottom and loosen the nuts just a little on the opposit side and then tighten just a little on the leaking side. So they have to be tightened evenly and not to tight the screws will strip. Alleyoop
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 17:06:41 GMT -6
Thanks to both of you. I have already siphoned the tank, watched the guage till it said about 1/4 full. It should be low enough now.
I like your ideas about fixing first and making gaskets. But if that all fails they are not that awful to buy at $19 plus $5 for shipping. I will have to check, my RTV may all be hardened or only for fish tanks. I am sure I can get an auto grade at the auto store tomorrow.
After I get the thing off I will look at the gasket material. I may have some in the shop or garage.
Off to do some more disassemble. Thanks again. .
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 18:12:26 GMT -6
New concern. I took off the square plate, worked the sensor housing loose and off the studs. Carefully pulled the sensor toward the outside but it ends up with the float too big to come through the hole. Could it have swollen from the gas in the tank? Maybe I am missing another ring seal or whatever that needs to be removed also. I put my finger inside the hole but could not find anything to remove or just plain missed it.
A bit stumped right now. It is a round hole and a round float as best as I can see. I don't want to try to force it with that thin wire as that would surely mess up the alignment of the float.
There was a round rubber gasket under the Bakelite base piece. And that is all I could find. I can't get it off till I get the float out.
I am done for today but will take another look in the morning. Alleyoop, if you or anyone else know what I should be doing I do appreciate good help. So far plenty here and I thank you all.
T hose four screws are not parallel to each other. The one seems to be slanted just a bit to the outside and to get the parts off they all were OK but on that one I had to force slightly and the parts made a bit of noise sliding up that screw.
Slowly learning. .
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Post by bobf on Mar 6, 2011 18:50:55 GMT -6
Where is this PDI post? I have been browsing with no luck. I have tried "search" but was refused as the search term requires 4 characters. I was browsing what I thought was the tech section so now I am lost. I would like to see that section before I put my covers back on the scooter. .
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Post by Cruiser on Mar 6, 2011 20:49:27 GMT -6
Sorry, Bob. Haven't had much time for the computer today. Here's the file from the Big Guy: x1scooters.com/pdi.htmlIt's under the Library section. In the manuals, help files, and PDI's section page 2.
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Post by bobf on Mar 7, 2011 7:18:02 GMT -6
Thanks for the link to the PDI information Cruiser. I book marked it for future use.
Good morning to all. I just got the fuel sensor out of the tank. Just takes the right position and angle to get it started out. I think I was almost there yesterday but I was getting tired and impatient so I quite for the day. The seal is hard as a rock so I will need to replace that. I will see what I can get at Autozone and buy some auto silicone RTV good for gas applications. This should start my reconstruction day. I read some of the PDI and will apply some of the replacement and will check all things for loose or tight. New electrical connectors, not sure, but will at least check them out.
Starting to get warmer each week so it won't be too long till the scoot must be ready to ride. .
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Post by bobf on Mar 9, 2011 13:40:04 GMT -6
All OK for now. I looked for a gasket for the fuel sensor on Monday. Autozone had nothing I could use so I drove on out to the Honda place. Oh oh, Monday they are closed. Tuesday I drove back out to Honda and the guy put an O-ring on it. Did not work and my gas siphon would not work so I ended up on the garage floor with a bucket and rags and kept the leaking gas from spreading too far. Finally got the siphon to work and salvaged some of the gas. Then I went to a different auto store that the Honda guy told me about. They had a lot of 1/8 or better rubberize cork that is used for fuel systems in tractors. About 9" wide and they sold me a 9"X2" piece for a dollar. Measured the inside and outside dimensions, drew the two circles on paper then traced them onto the cork material. A little time with my razor knives to cut out the inside and scissors to cut the outside.
Well it worked. I had a slight ooze at first but with a couple turns on the nuts it all went away and I now have a dry gas tank. I replaced those original nuts with some nylon locking nuts so I won't be worrying about them backing off.
Now I start the radiator flush and oil and gear changes. I do have an oil drip from a bolt on the bottom of the motor. It looks almost like a drain plug and right behind the water pump. So when I do the oil change I will see what I can do about that leak.
I read the entire PDI section, printed it out so I could have it handy, some of that stuff seems a bit extreme but will do all I can.
I hope I don't come back with more problems. But comforting to know that there is help here if needed. .
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Post by bobf on Mar 12, 2011 15:54:02 GMT -6
I have most of the covers back on and only the seat remains to be installed. But another problem has happened.
As I have changed coolant and oil and gear grease I have run the motor on occasion before starting to put the covers on. Yesterday I noticed a few drops of coolant had gone to the floor. I re tightened the lower bolt on the water pump hoping that would do. Today while putting the covers on I see more coolant on the floor. Again I tried to re tighten the bolt. It seems quite tight and I no longer have a torque wrench as I gave them to my kids when I quite fixing cars.
So how much tighten can I put on those small bolts? With out a torque wrench for help.
What is the best action at this time? I suppose I should drain the coolant first. Clean the bolt. Spread more Loctite on the bolt and tighten a best I can.
If I put some gasket putty under the head of the bolt would that be a help or a mess? I could put some automotive silicon around the head of the bolt before installing. Is that a good idea or another mess. Curious because I hate a dripping engine.
Good advice, same as in the past, is needed. .
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 12, 2011 20:39:50 GMT -6
Bobf, Yes that Round Elongated Float barely makes it through the hole in the tank. You have to pull it through straight otherwise they will pull off the wire as your pulling it out. I had one actually come off the wire and fall inside the tank. I Had to take the splash guard that is inside the fill hole so I could fish it out. Glad you stopped the leak. Alleyoop
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