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$275 for a gas pump sounds ridiculous to me. I replaced my gas pump for about $20 or less. If I could remember where and when I would look it up.

Cosrrection: I looked up my fuel pump purchase on my PC. I paid $45.98 which included the packing and shipping so I probably paid closer to $35. My purchase was for vacuum fuel pump for a 250cc engine. I was also looking for physical size for my scoot. Probably could had done with one of the smaller sized ones but mounting in space gets difficult so I looked for a physical size in particular.

Also found a listing for all kinds of fuel pumps and some are really low priced.

www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=1800coolparts+fuel+pumps+250cc+scooters&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfuel+pumps+250cc+scooters.TRS0&_nkw=fuel+pumps+250cc+scooters&_sacat=0

A year ago I ordered the Honda Reflex book off the web for $10. It does cover the engine on my scoot but the body stuff is only ideas as my scoot body is all different. So engine for sure and the rest is ideas for the wiring, cooling, and accessories. Basic but good though.

I am going to click on 'Insert Image' now. Nothing happens now and I am signed in. Prior I could get the box about 'Browse' but it did not work even when I did find the image and want it open. I have been trying this for some many hours with no luck. I am now using the easy picture posting from the forums first screens. Something is wrong. I have used images and scans. Not at all sure it is the problem of the image program or if it is really some more of the MS messes created by Win10.

Just trying to post my picture of the damaged right crankcase cover that I eventually found and replaced.

Any help?

I just looked in my garage and I have 80W-85W transmission oil sitting on my shelf. Must be what I used.

Spark plug on the left side as you sit on it.

I would replace the gas and put in some SeaFoam cleaning agent. About an ounce for each gallon of gas in the tank. It is a cleaning agent that may help loosen things up that have been sitting too long.

Plug is near impossible to get too so you may need to take off some panels if that is where you want to search. Possibly just take off the seat and loosen the side panels mounting screws so you can slip them around a bit for views and access without taking them completely off. These scoots are not designed for service access.

On mine I also have the rear box and such also blocking removal. If serious then take the covers off so you can follow the hoses and wires from front to rear. To take the covers off you will also need to take the foot rests off and maybe even the mid way covers over the foot area. Not exactly sure how your scooter looks. If not necessary to remove the covers, don't do it. I had some troubles with misaligned when trying to reinstall. Once you do have them all off, leave them off till you feel sure you are ready to ride, not more fixing to do.

While on the full stand, not the kick stand, I have adjusted my idle to where it runs best for me and my engine. My dash instruments are not usually real stable so my numbers may not be as true as some add on instruments might be.

I start from a cold engine and watch as my engine will climb up into the 2,000 rpm plus some more to about 2,500 rpm. Then at about a minute it will start to slow down and finally end up on about 1,200 rpm or 1,500 rpm. All done in about a minute and a half.

I am still working on my scoot, I believe it is the same as yours, has been going on for a long long time. I was asked to change the mixture screw also but on my scoot I could not find a way to do so as no access for finding the screw on the bottom of the carb.

So now I am slowly tweaking the carb when I have time. I am tweaking to avoid the mess I recently got away from. The engine would start from cold and go straight up to about 3,500 rpm showing. So I have had to slow down the idle to the 1,000 rpm level then the cold starts would be into the 2,000 rpm levels. Now I try to reset the idle while warm and on the stand to be in the mid level, about 1,500 rpm area and not pulling the wheel. My problem being that just a minor tweak on the throttle and the rear wheel starts to turn. I do have the throttle cable set to allow about a quarter inch turn on the outer edge of the grip.

I think the final rpm will depend on the engine and how it is set up with the valves, air system, fuel used, instrumentation, whatever. No two engines will be exact the same so for me getting it to run good is the secret. Exact would be the intended goal.

Hope it works for you, and have a good ride.

Curious, your id area says 'Location EXUMA'. I posted that on my mapping program and it came up with a place in Denver. Is that a true location for you?

We once lived in Longmont and my daughter has a house near Golden that she intends to sell soon. I always liked Colorado and when retired I moved down to Cortez. When the doctors told me to consider ordering tanks for my breathing, I just up and moved to Arizona south of Phoenix. Four years of taking care of my Cortez property and in March this year it was finally sold.

I took a ride this morning and found the engine was changing speed. It would not drop down when I let go of the throttle so I went home and it was idling at near 2,200. A coupe quarter turns on the idle setting screw and it dropped on down to a bit over 1,000. Will try it again tomorrow. Will let every one know how it works.