Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 26, 2016 19:35:36 GMT -6
Today, I gave up on trying to pull the water tube out of the casting. I used heat but after several tries I just gave up and did what my son suggested, and drilled all around the tube. It did not pull out so I drilled and drilled and used the drill to completely release the tube. I had the tube nearly all released from the metal and it still would not pull out. Almost like it had been soldered in. Finally I did get it to release from the grips of the casting and was able to get it out.
I spent some time with files rasping the outside of the tube, reshaped the tube back to as round as I could get it. All those efforts to get the tube out really messed up the tube. Once I go it reshaped and filed till fairly smooth I tried it in the new casting. It slipped in about half and then it was tight. So I doped it all up with water pump sealer and gasket material, set it in the hole, place a board over it and hammered the board till the tube went down to the bottom of the hole, like the old one had done. Now we wait till sometime tomorrow for the gasket putty to harden and then start reassembling the motor on the scooter.
Sure hope this all works when I get it assembled and start the engine. Starting probably won't happen till later this coming week. When running I will redo the valve adjustments one more time. This time I have some non hardening thread coating. Before the screws kept trying to spin off and hopefully now they won't. I will let you all know if it works and what the product is.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 24, 2016 16:20:18 GMT -6
You have answered part of my question. Order from a dealer. Who might that be. I spent plenty of time looking for one that admitted to having one. And no luck so far.
Any clues other than mine on how to pull those parts from the old casting.
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Post by bobf on Mar 24, 2016 15:22:12 GMT -6
One more problem with the right hand crank case cover that I ordered. It was only the 'right hand crank case cover' and none of the pressed in parts came with it. I look at pictures and the pressed in tube for venting shows up in and the pressed in water tube also shows up as already pressed in. But neither is in the part I received.
I managed to be able to twist and pull the air vent tube, about 3/16 diameter, and was able to pound it into the new casting. I definitely got it passed the inside surface but stopped the pounding before I did bend or crack the new casting.
Now I am trying to get the water hose connection out of the top of the casting. Sure can not get it to budge one bit. Nor have I been able to find any offered for sale.
I will try to loosen it with a torch on the outside and see if then I can twist it up and out. If not I will try drilling along side and see if that helps.
I would prefer just to buy a new tube and try to get it pushed into the new casting someway. Maybe a bit of enlarging of the hole or sanding the outside of the tube or both. It does not need a major force fit to hold it in. Just a nice grip and some adhesive will do fine.
Anyone know of a way to get this tube for the water hose? I spent a lot of time this afternoon and found none.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on Mar 20, 2016 17:45:32 GMT -6
Thanks, I will look this up and see how it is supposed to work. It is one I don't have but worth a look see.
So thanks again.
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Post by bobf on Mar 20, 2016 16:13:37 GMT -6
That does make sense to me so I asked. What type would you use for this job. I would like something thin and at least an hour or two working life include. I have several in the garage but will look to the auto adhesives for one that gives sufficient working time and can take a lot of heat too and is easy to apply to one side only and the outer side could be covered later as the job goes on.
I know how I work and once started I want to have time to put all those bolts in while the adhesive is still soft and willing to hold on to stuff. I am not as fast as a factory worker might be with an array of properly fitted air drive tools.
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Post by bobf on Mar 20, 2016 15:17:42 GMT -6
OK folks. Still working to get my scoot running again. I did lots of experimenting and finally found the right side crankcase cover is defective. It had to be from the factory as a chunk of stuff, likely 2 part epoxy, broke out. I can now try a two part epoxy only to have it fail again or order a new crankcase cover.
I found one priced at $35 dollars but after I ordered it they called me at home and told me out of stock. So I started looking around and found one at $69 and only 3 left. So I ordered and later found one at $49 or was it $55. Did not matter and I already had a shipping note of packaged and shipped. So by this coming weekend I should have the new casting from one dealer and the gaskets, water pump seals and bearings and gasket. So hoping in time I will have the scoot running again. Now for my question for this repair.
To exchange the casting for the right side crankcase I have to move the cable and a couple other parts to the new casting. Then reinstall on the engine.
My big concern is the gasket. If I get a normal gasket do I need to also use a adhesive to make sure it does not leak or will plenty of pressure on the many screws be sufficient.
I hope it starts running again. I have had it for five years now and not even 250 miles on it yet. If it does behave and start running again I will likely put it out for sale. Who ever buys it will be getting a repaired and working machine. Much more than what I had, even from the factory.
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Post by bobf on Mar 13, 2016 19:44:26 GMT -6
I will just advise to let Alleyoop help you as he has helped me a lot.
It would be helpful to tell us if horizontal Honda engine or vertical Linhai engine. As Alleyoop has advised the same carb is used on both but after that much can be different. Examples might be the covers will have some differences and especially under the seat items. Doing the valves on a Honda is much easier and more direct to get too than the Linhai.
The actual horse power of the Honda is less than the Linhai. The 250cc is a generic number used by a range of actual outputs.
My scoot is the Honda and I have been working with it for quite a while now. Had some real problems like boiling over so had to replace the thermostat and fan controller. Then had problems similar to what you are claiming. I changed the carbs but no advantage and went back to the original carb. Many problems I have had were due to the air system to the engine. It must be good from the intake box all the way to the carb. Nice fitting connectors with no extraneous air leaks. I did replace the air tube from the air intake box to the carb. Be sure they fittings are completely fitted and the clamps tightened well. I put a new fitting on the back of the carb to the engine intake port also.
As soon as I get my scoot running I will take a few rides around town to make sure, then it will go on sale. I am now climbing the hill towards 83 and my better half is wanting me to let go before I do something dumb, as older folks do things.
Fix and learn and then ride.
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Post by bobf on Mar 13, 2016 9:43:59 GMT -6
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Post by bobf on Mar 8, 2016 19:41:12 GMT -6
Thanks for the film Alleyoop. That sure clears up a couple things for me. One important one is the sealer. While cleaning the seal area this morning I found stuff scraping off the casting in that area and was going to ask about it. He said RTV Sealant, so tomorrow I will go to the auto store and buy some. He did not say what type but I am sure the auto store folks will know.
Now on the oil seal he did show how to remove and replace it. But for my engine with only 240 miles on it should I really bother to replace the seal at this time? And would my oil be messed up with all this water leaking I have had. I suppose an oil change would not be such a problem, just wondering if my oil got full of water.
And thanks again for this film. I apparently did nothing wrong while getting my seals out.
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Post by bobf on Mar 8, 2016 15:01:07 GMT -6
Yes, you have described it to me. Pretty much rubber and flat on the one side and grooved on the other side.
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Post by bobf on Mar 8, 2016 12:46:25 GMT -6
The smaller seal they sent me is 3/8ID X 3/4OD x 3/16 thick. No room for that in my impeller as the large seal with the white face is 1/2id x 7/8od x 3/16 thick. One or the other but not both.
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Post by bobf on Mar 8, 2016 9:03:55 GMT -6
Well, as far as I can tell I put things back in the way you described. There was one other smaller seal that could not be put on the shaft after the first step. I don't remember one in there prior.
I dug out the leaking ones and have ordered a new set. Should be here this coming weekend. Will see what I get this time. And be more careful when installing. Maybe I did not have it seated properly in the motor part.
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Post by bobf on Mar 7, 2016 15:54:01 GMT -6
I have had water dripping from the weep hole under neath the pump so I decided to replace the seals inside the pump. Ordered some and put them in yesterday. But now it is like pouring water in the inlet pipe and watching it all run out the bottom. No slow down at all. So what is the problem? I ordered the following parts from "Partsforchinesescooters.com". Items 2528 and 2529 www.partsforchinesescooters.comFor some reason I could not get an image to copy and paste here. Link to the page, type in 'water pump seals', and see the items I selected. They do look much like what I pulled out but now are worse than before.
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Post by bobf on Mar 1, 2016 17:08:18 GMT -6
I know the air tube is on good. Could it also be the block behind the carb and to the engine? If so I will have to tear it all down again and start over.
Right now the wife and I are head to the bank and getting some papers for the sale of our Colorado home notarized. I may not get back to this for a day or so.
This is getting to be a real drag. If this does not fix things then I may be forced to do the mix adjustment thing. Really don't know why as it was running fine before I started this valve adjust.
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Post by bobf on Mar 1, 2016 13:51:47 GMT -6
Allyoop, a question about my carb and starting idle speeds. As I wait for parts I have ordered I sometimes start the engine. Question about the starting speeds. After first starting it tends to run pretty fast, over 3,000 rpm and sometimes reaching for 4,000 rpm, prior to starting to slow down and finally ending up just below 2,000 rpm and idling.
Those high rpm's are for about the first minute or two and then a slow slow down to regular idle or less. It will sometimes drop well down to the 1,000 rpm or less and if not accelerated it will stop. Then in a bit of time and warm up it will start rising up to the near 2,000 rpm level. Then it will settle in and just run well.
To me the start up to near 4,000 rpm seems a bit much and the wheel is really spinning. Not sure I would like that to happen should I start on the wheels or side stand, instead of the main stand which would keep the wheels off the ground.
Should I consider those start up routines to be a problem? Something about the enricher that might be the problem? If needing a new one, where to look for a quality one not costing bundles?
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