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Thanks Alleyoop. Your last idea worked OK. I was looking for something more local so I would not get the entire thread and just the parts I might have highlighted and ordered printed. For this situation it worked fine as the thread was actually limited to the topic.

Now I will need to take some time and get the job done. Not sure when, but hoping soon. Not sure how I will be able to adjust that screw with the air intake tube still on and in place. I will have to go back and review some of the other notes you sent me. Something about loosening the carb clamps and rotating the carb a bit so turning that screw could happen.

Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the detail. I will have to write some of that off on to a tablet for reference. At my age, 83, memory is not very good. So I will copy some of the details for my use.

Too bad I can't just print it off.

Leaking follow up. Finally have found the location of the leak. It was not the drain plug as I suspected. I have spent plenty of time chasing this leak and was using mirrors and flash lights to finally find the cause. It was leaking from around the hose connection above the water pump. The water would travel along the casting and actually gather and drip from the drain plug area. The hose clamp on the hose end had broken and loosened allowing some water to escape while still looking like a clamp in place doing its job. It would start leaking as the internal pressure built and forced coolant to leak.

Put a new clamp on that hose and now all is dry again.

So some time was lost waiting for different repairs to the water pump cover and drain plug screw to take place and cure between efforts.

More adjustments needed to control idle. Will start with the reset of idle by readjusting the screw on the carb and then trying to reset the idle speed.

I have good sensors in the radiator and also the thermostat is good. I did a continuity from the temp gauge back to the sensor near the thermostat. Line checks out to be OK. So I guess that means the sensor by the thermostat must be bad or the temp gauge is not working, I think. I have one of those sensors so will try that next. ADD ON - just installed small sensor near the thermostat and used water pump gasket stuff to seal it. Tomorrow morning I will add coolant.

Can't run the engine till I get the coolant back into the engine. Just finished another repair by putting Helicoil into the right crankcase housing for the top left bolt on the water pump cover. Same strip out of threads on the new casting as I had on the original casting.

I still had dripping on the repair so I have now added gasket material to the lower right screw which is also the drain screw. It has always leaked since I first took it off last summer. Now I hope it will hold the water in.

Sometime next week I will be able to comment about the leak, fixed or not.

Now that it appears my efforts to end leaking and finish the crankcase repair has happened OK, I will bring up other concerns as I attempt to put it all back together and get it ride able again.

First is the problem of the temp gauge that does not seem to do anything. I may have to take off the front cover once again to check it out. Where does the signal come from and how best to trace the signal to find the problem.

I looked in the Honda engine manual but not much said about this situation. I never got a decent manual with my new scooter. The book I got was for a 150cc scoot. So any help will be appreciated.

As I reassemble I may find more things just not working either.

I have reassembled and today I will slowly add oil and coolant while watching for leaks. Maybe later today I will be able to try a restart.

Hello Bob####'s. Look at the two cables of the photo above in reply #31. The top cable comes from the side panel key lock/unlock. The bottom cable goes to the rear latch.

If using a different cable scheme, I have no idea at all.

The other Bob