Post by Bashan on Mar 21, 2011 5:02:29 GMT -6
I've had several requests to get this article in our tech section. This is from Ryan Ott on another forum, our thanks to him for all his research and development. Ryan's dialog and pictures follow with editing for brevity and some added content, your welcome to comment or add something in a reply:
I just wanted to show everyone how I put a real screw on type of oil filter on my RX200HP. First off here is the parts I purchsed they include a 3/4-16 thread pitch 1/4 npt port filter mount this was about $12. All the different fittings were about $10. Next is the various different fittings needed to run all the oil lines from engine to the filter and then to the oil cooler and back to the engine. I could of just cut off and used the banjo fittings from the factory oil lines but I wanted to save them.
I'll show you what the large fitting is for in a later installment of this.
First drain the oil from your oil lines:
While the oil is draining you can start to assemble and modify the fittings. First match up your old crush washer with your fittings to make sure you will have enough material left to seal up after you drill the center out. I used a 31/64 drill bit it was just about perfect.
When you assemble the fittings together make sure you use enough sealant on the threads I like to use the liquid type, I think it seals better you could also use teflon tape but it might leak.
The oil is done draining by now so install the assembled fittings on your engine make sure you use new crush washers.
Go ahead an put the fittings onto the oil filter housing you might want to angle yours differently make sure to seal them
By this time you should of thought about where to mount the filter. I might mount mine so that it is visable from the side of the scoot. This is temporary:
Now to install the rest of the fittings:
Go ahead and remove the oil lines completely. Run the oil lines so that they won't rub on anything and stay away from the exhaust. I don't really have pictures of this because they are a pain to run and are all tucked away.
The above pic is where I moved the filter to there is enough room to get a container under it to catch any oil when changing the filter.
That large fitting I was talking about earlier is for the oil temp gauge. Mounting the filter where it is takes a little effort to get it to clear the storage compartment if you keep it which I do. I could of welded up a bracket and mounted it further back but I didn't want to weld on the frame.
Yes I know that the gauge says water on it I also have one that says oil but the temp range is wider on this on. I got this from the $1.00 box at a performance shop.
Here is a side view of the filter, I like that you can see it from the side:
I ran my lines from supply side of engine to the in on the filter than the out side to the oil cooler and back to the retun on the engine. Don't forget to fill your oil back up with synthetic or your choice of oil. After your sure that you don't have any kinks and everything is away from the exhaust, start it up and check for leaks:
When you're sure that you fixed any leaks take it for a short ride. Check that those leaks are gone. After I have done this I think it's a good thing to have the oil volume is up from about .80 of a quart to almost 2 full quarts between the engine volume the filter and all the lines.
Here's the parts list: In my case all threads are 1/4 NPT
4- street elbows
4- 5/16 female barb fittings
2- 5/16 male barb fittings
1- tee ( if your putting on a gauge )
1-close nipple (the shortest they have needed for the tee )
10-12 ft 5/16 hose make sure its ok for oil
8- new crush washers
1-31/64 drill bit or similar to drill out the street elbow
Don't forget the filter you can use whatever you choose to or that you have room for. The only other addition I will make to this is to use the other center port on the filter housing for a oil pressure switch attached to a light to let me know if I lose pressure. I removed the final retun line to the engine to check flow and there is the same amout as there is on the supply side of the engine so flow should be adequate.
I just wanted to show everyone how I put a real screw on type of oil filter on my RX200HP. First off here is the parts I purchsed they include a 3/4-16 thread pitch 1/4 npt port filter mount this was about $12. All the different fittings were about $10. Next is the various different fittings needed to run all the oil lines from engine to the filter and then to the oil cooler and back to the engine. I could of just cut off and used the banjo fittings from the factory oil lines but I wanted to save them.
I'll show you what the large fitting is for in a later installment of this.
First drain the oil from your oil lines:
While the oil is draining you can start to assemble and modify the fittings. First match up your old crush washer with your fittings to make sure you will have enough material left to seal up after you drill the center out. I used a 31/64 drill bit it was just about perfect.
When you assemble the fittings together make sure you use enough sealant on the threads I like to use the liquid type, I think it seals better you could also use teflon tape but it might leak.
The oil is done draining by now so install the assembled fittings on your engine make sure you use new crush washers.
Go ahead an put the fittings onto the oil filter housing you might want to angle yours differently make sure to seal them
By this time you should of thought about where to mount the filter. I might mount mine so that it is visable from the side of the scoot. This is temporary:
Now to install the rest of the fittings:
Go ahead and remove the oil lines completely. Run the oil lines so that they won't rub on anything and stay away from the exhaust. I don't really have pictures of this because they are a pain to run and are all tucked away.
The above pic is where I moved the filter to there is enough room to get a container under it to catch any oil when changing the filter.
That large fitting I was talking about earlier is for the oil temp gauge. Mounting the filter where it is takes a little effort to get it to clear the storage compartment if you keep it which I do. I could of welded up a bracket and mounted it further back but I didn't want to weld on the frame.
Yes I know that the gauge says water on it I also have one that says oil but the temp range is wider on this on. I got this from the $1.00 box at a performance shop.
Here is a side view of the filter, I like that you can see it from the side:
I ran my lines from supply side of engine to the in on the filter than the out side to the oil cooler and back to the retun on the engine. Don't forget to fill your oil back up with synthetic or your choice of oil. After your sure that you don't have any kinks and everything is away from the exhaust, start it up and check for leaks:
When you're sure that you fixed any leaks take it for a short ride. Check that those leaks are gone. After I have done this I think it's a good thing to have the oil volume is up from about .80 of a quart to almost 2 full quarts between the engine volume the filter and all the lines.
Here's the parts list: In my case all threads are 1/4 NPT
4- street elbows
4- 5/16 female barb fittings
2- 5/16 male barb fittings
1- tee ( if your putting on a gauge )
1-close nipple (the shortest they have needed for the tee )
10-12 ft 5/16 hose make sure its ok for oil
8- new crush washers
1-31/64 drill bit or similar to drill out the street elbow
Don't forget the filter you can use whatever you choose to or that you have room for. The only other addition I will make to this is to use the other center port on the filter housing for a oil pressure switch attached to a light to let me know if I lose pressure. I removed the final retun line to the engine to check flow and there is the same amout as there is on the supply side of the engine so flow should be adequate.
