OMP Regulator Rectifier Upgrade By damin69 (Read 13,018 times)

[damin69]

Ok This is the new Thread for my Oregon Motorcycle Parts Regulator Rectifier Upgrade.

So I get home today and have a nice surprise in my mail box. You got it delivery from Tony at Oregon Motorcycle Parts(OMP) www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com



Ok I really though that the regulator was going to be a bit bigger. But believe me don't let the size fool you. It may be a bit smaller but it definitely weights more than the China Stock RR.

[damin69]

OK here we go. Lets start by saying to do this install should take less than an hour. I was able to take the back off install take pictures, Start up, Warm up bike till fan comes on and take readings and put back together in an Hour.

at time of doing these test I did not run any of my other cooling fans this is all bone stock. I wanted scooter to warm up quicker to kick in the fan. I will be taking scooter to work tomorrow. I will be running at 5000 rpm and holding 55-58 mph both ways to work. Round trip is 110 miles. It is always cool in the am so I have never had any problems starting scooter right after work. So the big test will be tomorrow after work. Suppose to be about 81 degrees and humid tomorrow so the run home at 5000 rpm the main fan should be on most of the time. So if I still have Both headlights and can still start the scooter after I get home That will be a good sign. Since I have not wired in the perm volt meter yet I will be going out and makeing a wire to plug into my batt Tender plug so I can use my DMM and keep an eye on the voltages tomorrow and will post my results after I get home.

When I get the CDI/Coil from Tom I will install my perm volt meter also.

Ok so on to the pictures and Results.

One thing I did notice with new RR. My idle was higher than normal when warm I had to adjust it down a bit as it was turning the clutch.

Voltage readings taken at battery.
This was voltage prior to starting scooter.

Voltage Right After I started scooter.

This was my Voltage IDLE before I turned it down. was Idleing about 2300 rpm

Voltage at 4500 rpm

Voltage With scooter Warm Main Cooling fan on.

Voltage at IDLE after Idle adjusted to 1700 rpm. Warm Fan running.


Here are some of the install pictures.

[damin69]

OK Morning Testing 55 miles to work.

I had noticed when I plugged in the Stator that plug was not quite as tight as I would like so not sure if that has anything to do with my Readings this am. My Batt Voltage before I started scooter was 12.68 Volts. Started out the first 10 Miles of my trip are along the river and are fairly curvy roads so average speet around 50 mph. Fan kicked in 3 times along that road. The voltage was reading 14.5 volts until Fan came on along that road then would drop down to 13.2 volts. As soon as fan would kick off the votage would then come right back up to 14.5 volts. Did this 3 times in that first 10 miles. Now I turn on to HWY 14 at Gothom head East to Madison 45 miles. So now I kick it down and start cruising at 57-58 mph avg about 5200 rpm. Voltage is about 14.5 for about 4 miles then Fan came on and pretty much stays on next 10 miles voltage stays steady about 12.6 volts. Then for the next 36 miles my voltage stays between 12.5 and 12.58 Volts. I pass through 3 towns one is really small and did not make any difference. The other 2 I slow down to 30 mph all the way through town and about the time I get to the end of Town Fan kicks off and Voltage would jump to 14.4 then as soon as I would open it back up voltage would drop down until it was stead again at about 12.5 volts. My Battery Voltage When I shut off bike was 12.61 Volts



Crap I forgot to feel the regulator when I got off the bike.


Temp this am was 69 degrees and about 20 percent humidity.

[Cruiser]

Interesting results, Todd. It looks like the R/R has the ability to put out a good charging voltage, but that drop with the fan on would indicate excessive loss in the circuits feeding the fan and maybe other parts of the scoot. Maybe it's at the stator connector like you said. Assuming that this is an upgrade to the OEM R/R, then we are looking at excessive losses in the circuits. Are you still running the 3 amp fan? I see you still have the blocking diode. I gained .7 volts by using a relay to eliminate the diode. It would be interesting to see the voltage reading right at the output plug on the R/R and compare it to the reading on the battery. I originally was getting a 1.5 volt drop with the original wires and blocking diode. My OEM R/R was putting out well over 14 volts and the battery was discharging. I don't see a cooling problem as the charging system should be able to handle the cooling fan running 100% of the time as necessary to keep the engine from overheating. It would be nice if the cooling fan never came on, but our unmodded systems will work hard to keep things cool. I personally don't mind as long as the scoot doesn't overheat and the charging system can handle the extra load. In any case, there should never be an instance where the battery discharges when normal electrical loads are encountered.

[damin69]

I agree with you on the cooling circuit. Over all without the fan kicking on it is well over 14 volts. Yes I am running the 3 amp cooling fan. That big drop worries me a bit also. On the other side my Battery voltage before and after stayed the same. We will see how this afternoon goes. Could be very interesting with temps upwards of 90 degrees with heat index around 105. I will be crossing my (well everything) LOL. All in all still better results than I have had with any of the other RRs I have. I have never ever gotten to over 14 volts with everything running but the fan. I have always been 12.5-13.2 volt prior to Main cooling fan.

[damin69]

JR, I agree 100%. Keeping the fan OFF is going to be key. Yes it is going to be a hot one. and that drop does worry me a bit. And the fact that the fan came on quite a bit this am. Well Is kinda my fault also. Remeber my last modd of the 2 120mm fans well they sit directly infront of an already blocked radiator. And for Testing purposes I am not running any of my extra cooling fans right now. So I expect that is not helping the air flow on keeping my scoot cool. If I can run hard going home tonight and still be able to start my scooter. I call this a HUGE sucess. This is only first day so will keep testing. I will have another day that I test with the added fans. if I do not see much diff I may remove them fans all together.

I have a 18HP lawn mower that I do not use. If I can get the local small engine guy to trade me one of them little radiators like you showed in that other thread I will give him that for the radiator. Then I can add that to my system also.

But so far I am happy with the results. 200% better than my previous charging attempts.

[damin69]

Ok as far as testing today goes Call it all scrap I am so pissed at myself it is not funny. Remember that loose connection from the stator I mentioned. Well I really think that damn thing was killing my readings today. I thought it was really weird that I was getting really iratic readings tonight. I left work I was over 13.5 kept that until 10 miles down the road. Where I pulled off into a parking lot to make a phone call and left scooter idle. I basically hit a bump going into the station I stopped. So when I stopped my voltage when from 13.5 with Fan on to 10.2 volts and it never moved all the reast of the way home. It was Hot out but I was not able to go balls out on the way home like I planned I was driving directly into a wind blowing about 25-30 mph I had a couple of time I thought I was going to get blown off the road. So my temps were not up really to normal.

SO I get home I'm pissed off pull off the body again and that 3 phase plug basically falls apart. I soldered new ends on the Stator wires that fit the plug tight and if it is not raining tomorrow I will try testing again. Temps are out side are supposed to be pretty much the same as today. But it will be higher humidity as it is raining now and going to rain til about 5 am. Crossing fingers it is all done.

Needless to say today was a total BUST :-(

Cause either I had a really bad connection or when my Stator Gets HOT it bottoms out.

[Cruiser]

There is a lot of room in back of and in front of the stock radiator. It would be interesting to piggyback another identical radiator maybe in front of the original.

[zugzug]

Is that the fuel tank in the front? Looks like a nice size. Its gotta be better than the 1.5 I have. Well, for holding fuel anyway.

[Cruiser]

Yea, that's the fuel tank. I believe it holds 3.2 gallons.

[damin69]

Relay is going in, if I can gain .7 Volts I think I will be good. Ok. What wire are you guy hooking the Relay trigger to?

The extra Fans are coming out as they have little or no effect on keeping the main fan off. I think the only way to help keep that main fan off is to add on the extra radiator. So until I can do that Mod I just want to get the system Stable.

[Cruiser]

Todd, I hooked up the relay trigger to an ignition key switched wire. The relay requires very little power to trigger it so any key controlled source would be fine. I happened to have an extra connector located near the horn that I used for the hookup. The headlights will come on every time you turn on the key with this setup. I have my lights switching on and off by use of the hi/lo beam switch. I find that properly aimed HID's provide plenty of light and I don't really miss the hi beam function. Aiming the right headlight a little higher than the left gives a nice light dispersion.

[damin69]

If I save .7 volts by relay instead of Diode That should put me at around 13.4 Volts with Fan Running. That would keep me above the voltage limite before it starts drawing from battery. That would be HUGE.

[damin69]

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Ok I am doing the HAPPY DANCE.. Ok Finally have the WINNING combination.

Ok results today. Drove in to work this am running Hwy speeds all the way. 5000-5200 rpms. 57-60 mph. Fan came on about half way to work. Even with Fan on voltage was Steady all the way to work at 12.7 volts. .. Ok this was a positive but not the end of test as it was only 67 degrees this am. Big test is Ride home this after noon. 88 degrees with Heat index around 96. Plus I was bucking a head wind all the way. Ok Final Results 12.68 volts when I get home. I had Both headlights and I was able to Shutoff scooter and Start it.... Now this is a HUGE FIRST.......... I have never been able to do that since I bought my Scooter..


Ok on to the Break down of the Winning Combo

1. 7" Cooling Fan www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=15&products_id=1024&osCsid=2bf68d71e32fe413cbb745cbd96ddb55

2. Regulator Rectifier 100% Worth Every Penny. The very bottom one (VRRPM3H) And he will put the plugs on that match the Stock Jonway plugs. (Tony is the Man) This is the KEY to the whole charging having a Regulator that will take what is thrown at it and hold voltage when it is warm. THIS IS THE ONE.
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html

3. 40 amp Relay. I dont have a link right now but this is a standard Relay used for running lights. Was like 4 bucks at O'Reily Autoparts.
(Used to Replace that Damn Diode)

4. Lighting upgrades to reduce Current draw. LEDs Replaced all bulbs except for instrument panel lights. (Tail/Brake, Signals and Runner lights above the headlights).

5. HID Upgrade. Stock bulbs are 35 watt and if you drive at night are not worth a crap with them you have very limited visibility. HID are about 5 times as bright as Halogen but only draw 35 Watts of power. So it was an even Trade off. But if you want to run at night This is an upgrade that is Needed the only other Alternative is to put in Halogen bulbs bright enough to run at night yes. But they also Draw 55/60 Watts each. So you end up drawing more current on a system that Already Stock can not even handle the Stock lighting. IMO HID are the best way to go. If you are in a state that you can not legally go HID. Then maybe consider modifying your lights with Halogen One side aimed with a good Low Beam bulb and the other side Aimed with a good High Beam bulb. Then you are actually cutting back on over all current draw from 70 Watts (35x2) to 55 watts Low 60 Watts High.

I think just the above would probably take care of most of the charging problems. I did go one step further and Will probably upgrade the wires that are running my Fan Circuit also.

6. Replaced wiring in the CHARGING CIRCUIT area of the wire harness with 12 guage wire.

[damin69]

After all of my testing Yes I believe I have my Charging system finally under control but I seem to have a bad Battery that is giving me grief. When the battery gets hot I think it shorts itself out and the voltage jumps all over the place. Voltage drops out the bottom about 9 volts. It did it to me yesterday also I had put in one of my spare batteries and all was going good We ran to Madison today. I had pulled the Battery out of the scooter last night when It did it and put it on the charger thinking it was somthing else causeing the issue. So I took all my Batteries with to Madison as I always keep on spare to jump the scooter when main Batt goes dead. So go to Batteries Plus ask the kid to check battery He says AOK No Problem with that battery all is good. So like a Dumb arse I believe the kid and put it back in my scooter. Well riding around for a bout 4 hours All of a sudden My Voltage Dropped headlights going wacky voltage jumping all over. I Pulled battery out put in my Spare all is good ran fine Voltage all good again. My spare is only 7Ah so really need to get a better one.

JR Where did you get that 14Ah battery you are useing?

Oh I should have said all was good until we got 24 miles from home and my Rear Tire went Flat while my Dad was driving it. Guess What another Leaky Valve Stem. So ticked. Well at least my Dad was down this weekend so His trailer was here for us to go back and pick it up. We just got back to the house about half hour ago.