Stalling half way through warming up By indiana (Read 2,607 times)

[indiana]

Hello I put the new choke on it fits nice and snug now it runs a little rough and stalls on and off I went from one minor problem to a different one. Its stalling when hitting bumps again so I think it's choking out when I hit bumps just like the other one did. So I have to stick with the longer one pushed all the way in. Maybe I could use a manual choke if I knew what one to buy for my application.. Thanks for all your help..

[jct842]

look for loose connections or connectors. I have found them like the push on's for the coil. Still stay on but the connection is intermittent.

[Alleyoop]

Yea the choke will not cause stalling out hitting a bump, Like JCT mentioned check for Loose connections espeically the wire going to your COIL make sure they are nice and tight Also check your BOOT CAP on the plug it may not be on the plug good, it should be a little hard to get it off the plug.
Alleyoop

[indiana]

I am an electronics repair tech I did all that grabbed and shook every possible individual part and wire of the machine. Only a full body bounce or shake would make it stall. (Every time) When I put the old choke back all the way in. Shook rocked bounced and (Nothing) it ran fine. Last week: It acted the exact same way when I mounted the old choke out too far in the outer groove near the o-ring which is the same distance as the new autochoke that I tried using. So I don't know what to tell you other than that it has to be that or a combination of choke/fuel settings or maybe it was never shutting off the extra fuel flow and the shaking just did enough to choke it off? I can't be sure .... you guys are Great! I mean better than Great!... I may just need a new matching choke to the one I have.... Thanks!...

[Alleyoop]

Now there was another fellow that it was the ENRICHER but it was grounding out because he had a bare wire on the Wires going to the ENRICHER. He could tilt the carb and it would want to die then tilt it straight again and it would work fine.

Well if it only happens on a full hard bounce look for something that is being PINCHED, Gas line, Wire etc where you see that the swing arm and shock come down, or under the seat by the battery and wires.




If you really suspect the choke, instead of paying for a new automatic choke buy a manual choke and put that on. I put a manual choke on mine only because in the hot summer I would smell gas until it the choke cut off the extra fuel.

What I used is an Old ENRICHER and I took it apart and used the Plunger and Needle because the kit one does not have a needle on it. You also will need a Bicycle De-Railer Cable works great and is long enough. Then you do not have to worry about the Enricher not working right.
Alleyoop

[indiana]

Very Nice!.. Thanks for all your help! I appreciate all the help everyone has given.

[indiana]

Found a matching carb for 36.00 Put it in with a few adjustments it's running perfect now... Thanks for the help..

[Alleyoop]

Great, it might have been the FLOAT in the bowl was not filling up enough and when you hit a big bump it would not suck in gas. So you now have a spare carb for parts.
Alleyoop

[indiana]

Okay working out some new bugs in my new carb now. I almost kill the battery trying to start it up lately when it's cold, If I give it throttle while starting up, it wont fire at all, If I leave the throttle alone it will eventually start up enough for me to gently throttle it ever so slowly up to idle speed. Could this be a float issue? I already adjusted the air flow when it was warmed up, It gradually had been getting worse starting harder and harder from day one and as the weather gets colder by the day. My old carb may be going back on as the old issues are far less cumbersome...

[Alleyoop]

No it is not the float, since you cannot open the throttle a little to start it that means it is not getting enough fuel for starting. What kind of Air Filter do you have is it a free flow filter or the OEM air box type.

So Turn the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE COUNTER CLOCKWISE give it one full turn and give that a shot.

Actually when it does start cold it should IDLE up like 500 rpms higher than what you set your idle which for a 250 should be 1800-2000 rpms. Then as it warms up the idle should come down to where you set it.
Alleyoop

[indiana]

It's the air filter that came with the bike.

[Alleyoop]

Cool, so if you bought it new it is an AIR BOX, if you bought the scoot from someone he may have changed it. SO what air filter does it have IS IT AN AIR BOX on the SIDE and above the CVT?
Alleyoop

[indiana]

Actually I got it new last year in the crate right from the JCL factory. It took me a couple hours to disassemble the cage it came in, the filter is on the side. The only thing I changed was the headlights. I installed HID head lamps. It really lights up the road now

[Alleyoop]

Great, they set the new scoots really lean to pass emissions so try turning the FUEL RATIO screw Counter clockwise at least 1 full turn that will feed it more fuel.
Let us know how that worked. Normally a pretty good starting point setting is 2 1/2 turns out from the closed position. Also don't forget about the IDLE the 250s like to Idle around 1800-2000 rpms AFTER they are warm.
Alleyoop

Alleyoop