Taotao 50cc By dezzymew (Read 14,818 times)

[dezzymew]

Hey there!

I cant get this little tao tao to run right or find an owners manual.

I got it yesterday for $200

It starts right up and runs strong but after you get to about 25 it putters out and dies.

I noticed a vacuum line thing is disconnected but i have no idea where its suppost to connect.

Any help would be appreciated!

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/1A9EAE2D-4013-4BB7-8D2C-595C16F59687-31444-0000075B410DCAFA_zps724f5a5e.jpg

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/4FCAC35C-2650-431B-95F4-6FBA0E5EB532-31444-0000075B40648E34_zpsada4064f.jpg

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/1D5E4476-2F56-4E9F-AD69-09DD8725688B-31444-0000075AFA03EBEA_zps47b70fef.jpg

And now the pics with the vac prob

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/077021AB-1A36-46AC-B876-74E1875414A7-31444-0000075A97A9287B_zps55bcd6ba.jpg

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/D2D506FC-F414-4BE6-A8AC-B31B831F15ED-31444-0000075A8B15E75F_zpsb3ea29e5.jpg

[dezzymew]

Im uploading the images from my phone so it might take a bit before they start working

[Alleyoop]

That Vacuum line coming from the Canister goes onto a nipple on the INTAKE MANIFOLD
OR a "Y" or "T" connector. Take a picture of the CARB area and INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Alleyoop

[millsc]

Tear the canister and all other parts associated with it and trash them, and block of the head where it was connected with a piece of aluminum and jb weld. and run just one hose to the manifold from the petcock, if it has two nipples block off the one that was being used for the canister.

[wutzthedeal]

Are there any detailed diagrams on how to do this? And is there any performance gain or benefit to doing it?

[Alleyoop]

Like I said put up pictures of your emissons on there and we will tell you how-to take them off or connect them correctly either way. BUT different years and different scoots put on different emissions or change them so we need to see what and how they are on there.
You have to help us so we can help you.

No performance gains will be gotten taking them off the BENEFIT is less possible leaks and problems that can be caused by the emission valves and or canisters and hoses.
Alleyoop

[wutzthedeal]

Ok I'll grab photos tonight; I'll start a new thread so I don't hijack the OP's.

[dezzymew]

i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/Bryantheghostrider/A0D6B0B6-0665-458B-8C61-143A3B9E896E-398-000000063DF30D17_zps28398a07.jpg
Heres a pic of where the hose starts any ideas?

[Alleyoop]

Dezzymew,
Here you we already have it on the forum:
Alleyoop
scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=5505

[Bashan]

Feb 14, 2013 16:02:14 GMT -6 wutzthedeal said:

Are there any detailed diagrams on how to do this? And is there any performance gain or benefit to doing it?

I ran into some pics and diagrams so I'll throw them up here. In answer to the performance question, Alley is right it, probably won't help. However, i remove all of the pollution junk to clean up the engine compartment and reduce the chance of vac leaks.

Here's a diagram of the PAIR system from a tech resource:

And here's one that I made:

Here's what the valve cover looks like if you have the "S" tube:

If you don't have the "S" tube it will look something like the next pic. This may be an EGR rather than PAIR but removing it would be the same process:

You'll need to remove the connection onto the head and block it off. I make my own plates out of aluminum stock from Lowes and then use Permatex Copper and/or some exhauist gasket material. The emissions port is about two inches away from the exhaust valve so you don't want cold air getting back up in there:

Here's a top view of the PAIR system, you'll need to plug that vacuum line running to the intake manifold from the PAIR canister. Once the head connection is blocked and the vacuum line plugged you can take all of the system off. The fresh air hose is the one that is usually hanging open down around the floorboards that folks think is an unconnected hose:

I used one of your pictures to identify your lines and what should be done with them:

[dezzymew]

Lol i ended up with this same setup. I had to make 2 changes.

1 the intake only has one port on it. I used a "Y" splitter to make the smaller one connect to the intake. I also added a small breather knk filter to the end. I assumed that little cylinder was a filter but i didn't trust it.

Its running a bit smoother. I actual got a little ride in today. I added some big off road lights and a dual air horn. I ran sea foam through the intake and its running much much better. Its running really rich. Friend thinks i need to take the carb apart and clean it. I agree.

I have a 150cc gy6 carb, could i run that instead and just set it really low?

[Alleyoop]

If you put in the 24mm it will be worse, and if it is running rich just adjust yours and lean it out. Also if it is running rich it is sucking in gas and doesn't need cleaning. When you don't get gas is when you have to check and clean them.
What kind of carb is on there? Does it look like the 24mm carb? Also does it have the Fuel Ratio Screw availbable or is it PLUGGED? Also check your AIR FILTER it may be clogged and causeing the rich condition OR the ENRICHER is not shutting off the extra fuel.
Alleyoop

[dezzymew]

I dont know what the size or what the enricher is. :/ im newer to scoots.

It does have an adj screw which way do i turn it to lean it?

She runs nice and quick for a bit then floods out then i gotta wait a while for it to dry out.

You guys have a favorite brand for belts? This one is really old.

[Alleyoop]

Look at the belt and get the numbers off the belt to match the size when you order a new belt. Most of us consider BANDO and GATES belts to be of good quality. You buy cheap belts and they will break up into pieces actually shread into pieces then you have a mess on your hands and possibly damaged parts in the CVT.

This is what parts on a carb are Yours is a little smaller this one is a 24mm carb.

Wait you say it runs good for a while and then floods HOW DO YOU KNOW it floods It could be overheating and siezing. Check your oil level put it on the center stand and unscrew the oil Dip Stick wipe the oil off and just stick it back in DO NOT SCREW it in then pull it out and the oil should be covering HALF the XXXXXXs on the dip stick.

But here is a picture of a 24mm carb NOTICE the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE screw to the left.
Turning that CLOCKWISE LEANS the mixture(TAKES FUEL AWAY) turning it COUNTER CLOCKWISE RICHENS the mixture(FEEDS MORE FUEL).


But I have to ask how does it act what does it actually do DOES IT DIE OUT or make a BOGGGGGG sound or POPS or BACKFIRES etc..
Alleyoop

[dezzymew]

It just starts losing power until its not moving even if. The rps are up it wont go. Then if i let off throttle it dies and i have to wait a bit to get it to start