Dim lighting issue..... on gy6 scooter By nino (Read 4,979 times)

[nino]

There is NO woodruff key, the slot is empty, photo coming soon

[nino]

Thanks everyone, I got the scooter to work,it was very hard and complicate job,finally got it to run today: I had to adjust the valves, ( they were completely closed ) made my own .004 inchs feeler gauge out of a coke can ( worked perfectly ). The Woodruff Key on the Flywheel was broken and the slot were the key goes was damaged,I had to fill the slot with Loctite 660 Quick Metal put a new key. The next day the liquid metal was still soft ,( I dint know loctite 660 WONT't work if it is exposed to air ) luckily that work it in my favor because the liquid metal was still soft but hard enough to live the perfect key form, I tape the whole thing and the next day i had the perfect Keyhole match.
I put the scooter back together and to my disbelief that thing started right up, for how long? I don't know. hope this will help someone also.

Still have the Dim lighting issue..... Replace the regulator / rectifier but no luck, need help. Thanks

[Alleyoop]

Great!! now that the scoot is back in time and it starts and runs we can try to deal with the dim lighting.

QUESTION:
Does your scoot have a light switch to turn on the lights or do they come on automatically after the motor starts?

If you have a switch to turn them off and on then they are fed by the battery. If they come on only when the motor is running then they are fed from the stator. So how do your lights work?
Alleyoop

[nino]

they come on automatically after the motor starts.

[mcgyvre]

Where are we sitting on this thread? I am having similar lighting issues. I suspect they were never right from the day I got the thing. There are signs of much rewiring and, while technically sound, there's no way to know if it is wired correctly. The solder joints are solid and wrapped well, so this is not under suspicion. I have the G/W/Y with no on/off switch. Where I become confused is that I understand this to be AC power from the stator to the headlight circuit, but I have DC lamps. Here's my odd symptom. Upon initiual startup, everything seems to work normally. Then the entire headlight circuit fades out. If I engage the brake lever, the headlight circuit comes to life as long as I hold the brake lever. Additionally, when the turn signals are activated, similar thing, except the headlight circuit blinks with the turn signals. In either case, when these items are off, the headlight circuit dims out quite rapidly, but does not just go out. I have verified the wiring personally a number of times and can promise that the yellow stator wire supplies the headlight circuit, the auto choke, the R/R in parallel. I have taken the headlight hi/low out of the circuit as well. I currently have the headlight, the running lights, the tail light and the dash lights all running from the yellow stator wire in parallel. The main stator yellow has only 3 branches. One to the choke, one to the stator and one to the headlight circuit. I split the headlight circuit branch into parallel paths for each separate item on the headlight circuit as outlined. I am really beginning to think only one of 2 things can be wrong. Either someone did a partial conversion to the GYW stator setup and it needs to be stripped to the frame of wires and started over, or the R/R is bad. Obviously, one option is cheaper and easier, but I still don't understand how stator power coming to the headlight circuit has anything to do with the R/R being bad or not. My head is in circles here. 

On a separate note, when I read about the TS replacing the stator, my FIRST thought was woodruff key. I have had similar troubles. Mine started when the woodruff key initially went bad and I used Harbor freight replacements. Yes, plural! I have re keyed mine 3 times, finally getting an auto quality at the auto parts store and using an impact to set the nut. In my mind, if the stator has been removed at all and one runs for a short while and it quits, check the woodruff first. Just my 2 bits of experience!

[Alleyoop]

If its AC power then voltage comes from the R/R which the AC power stator is changed from AC to DC. So the suspect is the R/R not putting out enough DC power for the accessories on the scoot.
Alleyoop

[Bashan]

Yes, right on. The GY6 is unusual in that you have two different currents running through the bike at the same time. Some of this is mandated by the DOT. When you turn on the key they want some lights to come on...hence DC off of the battery. Also, you have to have energy to the solenoid which comes off of the brake light circuit. That's off of the black wire from the ignition connected to the red wire from the battery. All of that is DC, it has to be, there is no AC electrical generation before the stator is spinning (stators are always AC...generators are DC). So now you get the engine started and you've got AC coming out of the W and Y. The Y runs to the R/R and is regulated from about 20vAC to 12vAC. So this Y runs to a lot of your lights...with AC..and yet a lot of them..tail lights...etc, are running off of the DC circuit from the ignition via the battery. Everything that comes off of the stator white wire is AC, it is rectified by the R/R to DC and sent to the battery. Some circuits are DC and tied to that. Many circuits are AC off of the yellow because it is simple to tie AC lights to an AC feed and then ground them back to the battery. Everything going INTO the R/R will show AC 12v because it is regulated..........on the other side of the R/R is DC 12v...regulated and rectified to the battery, the red cable.

So YOUR problem is you have a ground or short issue in which the DC is shorted to the AC side when you hit the brake, at the very least. Your R/R is stressing out and shutting down when it heats up. The R/R is probably toast by now, those diodes fail with too much reverse current. Do you know how to run a multimeter? We can sort through this but it will require some testing. Rich

[nino]

Hi,waiting on a multimeter from Amazon.In the meantime I was wondering if there is a way to connect the headlight and taillight directly to the battery, I have feelings the problem is with the 8 coil magneto that was replaced because that's when the all problem started, the scooter was fine prior to that.I'm hopping I don't after take the flywheel back off again, I had lots of problems with the woodruff key and timing.

[nino]

Hi, today on my way home at 40 mph my back wheel lock up,that was quite scary. What causes a scooter back wheel to lock up? ( 150cc gy6 4 stroke )

[Alleyoop]

Wheels locking up all by themselves most likely bad bearing and or shaft. Does the wheel turn by hand it could also be in the tranny gears.
Alleyoop

[nino]

Reason for the back wheel to lock up was broken bearing in the drive shaft due to no gear oil in the Crankcase. Replace all Bearing & Seal with this Kit www.partsforscooters.com/164-299-GY6-Transmission-Bearing-and-Seal-Kit?sc=38&category=138712. Not an easy job! before attempting this make sure you have a Bearing puller ( I rent one from my local AutoZone )and an impact drill for the removal of the clutch and variator ( you will NOT BE ABLE TO TAKE THOSE TWO BOLTS OFF WITHOUT THE IMPACT DRILL, it is also good idea to replace you're belt while you have the cover off. ).

Put everything back together only to discover that my gear oil plug is stripped and that's what cause the wheel to lock up.I raccoment everybody with a gy6 engine to check you're gear oil every time you change you're engine oil, gear oil plug is very easy to damage and if the oil leeks out you will damage the bearings causing the back wheel to lock up while you riding. Need to replace the transmission cover to solve the stripped oil plug issue, in the meantime I managed to stop the leak with a plastic anchor and the right bolt, it is a temporary fix but it works, I've been righting the scooter for couple of weeks with no oil leak.

Still have the Dim lighting issue.....accelerating almost full lights....idle no lights.

[Guitarman]

Wow man... Either you're planning on being a scooter mechanic or you're just a glutton for punishment. We've all been there. These things give a lot of trouble if they're not setup correctly, but once you get them right, they might just run forever with good maintenance. The trick is not going insane while you try and get it setup right.

But you always have the MB option. (MB = Myth Busters Massive Blast) BLOW IT UP BABY! LOL

[jasonm]

Sub'd.

I am having the same issue as macgyvre.

I replaced the stator assembly due to loss of spark. I also replaced the carburetor (in leu of larger jets) due to an upgrade in exhaust and the motor constantly running lean at 3/4+ throttle and with hard starting (I know, I could have rejetted to larger main jet as well as pilot jet). I opted for 2mm larger larger carb.

I will purchase a R/R to hopefully fix problem.