Dim lighting issue..... on gy6 scooter By nino (Read 6,201 times)

[nino]

After replacing the cdi, magneto and carburetor my instruments and headlights lights are dim to nothing, they will only get bright if i turn on my
emergrncy blinkers and reved the engine up.Need help!

[mxmatt]

Feb 21, 2014 11:11:20 GMT -6 nino said:

After replacing the cdi, magneto and carburetor my instruments and headlights lights are dim to nothing, they will only get bright if i turn on my
emergrncy blinkers and reved the engine up.Need help!

Welcome to the forum. This place is great for all your scooter questions and solutions. Electrical is not my strong suit, but there are some boys here who are plugged in.  They will be along soon I am sure.

[Bashan]

Are you El Nino? Sorry, couldn't resist. By magneto you mean stator? I need to know if your stator has a connector that has a W/Y/G connector or three yellows. Depending on your configuration the headlights are either AC off of the stator yellow and regulated to 12v, or 12v DC off of the battery circuit if three yellows come off of your stator. You're CDI would have nothing to do with this, it is involved only in the ignition system. You didn't rewire anything did you? It's odd the emergency flashers would start acting like that. Anyway, the symptom of having to rev the engine to get something to light up is indicative of a regulator/rectifier failure. Give me your stator configuration and I'll give you some tests to do.

[Alleyoop]

Lets ask the question WHY did you replace the STATOR(MAGNETO)? what was it that you thought that was the problem?
Most of the time if its not charging or lighting is acting up it is either a bad ground or a bad Regulator/Rectifier.
Very seldom it is the stator unless of course it is very old or got drowned somehow and shorted out or burned some poles. But right now the Stator wire colors are important to know and are they a match to the old stator you took off?

It may be you have a mismatch on the R/R or the R/R was the original problem in the first place and not the stator.
But that can be tested to see if the stator is putting out for to the R/R if it is then the problem child is the R/R or a bad ground someplace.
Alleyoop

[mxmatt]

Not to hijack the threat, but where do you find the most common bad grounding locations?

[Bashan]

Hmmmm, I'd have to say the ground for the dash lights, I'm not sure why. But a lot of people complain their dash lights are out and when chased down it's green on the dash pigtail.

By the way, Alley is right, we should determine why the stator was replaced. I jumped the gun.

[nino]

Ok, Let's start from the beginning
The reason I replace the STATOR(MAGNETO) cdi, and carburetor because the scooter wasn't used for a while and will not stay running.
I should have replaced the carburetor first because that was the problem, with the new carburetor the scooter start right up.
The lights issue come up after installing the new parts.

Stator has a connector that has a W/Y/G connector.

On inspecting the Regulator/Rectifier I found the plug connecting to it was hanging down to low touching the steering mechanism and one of the wires ( the green one) was pinched, is this the ground wire? ( it is to short to cut and splice together,pinched neat the plastic plug any suggestions?).

Now for the main event....After replacing the STATOR(MAGNETO) cdi, and carburetor I notice the engine and exhaust was ticking loudly,tuke for a test drive and half way home the engine power went way down with couple of back fire from the exhaust and unresponsive throttle than cut off completely,
Is my engine toast? It turns but it will not start anymore. how can I tell if the engine is dead or not.

My apologies for my bad english I'm new to this country and your help is much appreciated!

[Alleyoop]

See what I mean, U GOT'S to ask some simple questions first. Now because of the bad ground on the R/R it could be toast already and is why he as a lighting problem and or charging problem.

Now backfires is a lean condition, so lets forget about the lighting problem for now and see if we can get the motor to run then we can attack the other problems.

So first thing is to check for SPARK:
1. Take the spark Plug out or get a spare one if you have one and take the BOOT CAP off the one on the motor and stick the spare plug into the BOOT CAP. THEN HOLD it against the VALVE COVER and crank it and see if it is sparking.
A. if it sparks good go to #2, if No Spark we have an electrical problem(STOP). And we can do some electrical tests.
2. Put the Boot cap back on the plug on the motor.
3. Now check for fuel getting to the CARB.
a. Take the fuel hose off the carb and put it in a container
b. Crank the motor over and fuel should stream out into the container
c. If fuel comes out go continue to #4, If no fuel go to CHECK FUEL DELIVERY.
4. MAKE SURE THE AIR FILTER is connected to the Carb.
5. Turn the fuel ratio screw CLOCKWISE until it STOPS.
6. Turn the fuel ratio screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 2 1/2 turns.
7. Try and start the motor.

Get back to us on the above and tell us what how far you got.
Alleyoop

[Bashan]

I'm sorry Alley, you were right, spank me, it's the only way to make things right....SPANK ME!

[nino]

Thanks, plan to do this today and post the results

[nino]

Everything on your list checked out ok, still no luck getting the scooter to start.

going back to what happened on the first test drive after replacing the carburetor,STATOR(MAGNETO)and cdi( the engine power went way down with couple of back fire from the exhaust and unresponsive throttle than cut off completely) I notice loud ticking coming from the cooling fan near the STATOR(MAGNETO) and the exhaust I think taking the scooter for a drive before adjusting the fuel/air mixture the idle was bad idea because the engine was not smooth and the rpm was going up and down. By the way I live in California and some scooters are not legal here because of emission restrictions, do you thing the new carburetor was not modify for California therefore not functioning properly? I still have the old one that I can clean and put back on.

[Deleted]

Feb 23, 2014 14:48:42 GMT -6 nino said:

Everything on your list checked out ok, still no luck getting the scooter to start.

going back to what happened on the first test drive after replacing the carburetor,STATOR(MAGNETO)and cdi( the engine power went way down with couple of back fire from the exhaust and unresponsive throttle than cut off completely) I notice loud ticking coming from the cooling fan near the STATOR(MAGNETO) and the exhaust I think taking the scooter for a drive before adjusting the fuel/air mixture the idle was bad idea because the engine was not smooth and the rpm was going up and down. By the way I live in California and some scooters are not legal here because of emission restrictions, do you thing the new carburetor was not modify for California therefore not functioning properly? I still have the old one that I can clean and put back on.

Probably the carb is fine because if anything it was probably running richer than it should be which is OK. California emissions make it tuned to run lean. if there was a ticking noise by the flywheel then id be checking for foreign object damage or loose or missing parts. did you make sure the pickup coil for the cdi was tightened down? it could have come loose or any other bolts that are there could have come out flew around and damaged something.

[Alleyoop]

Time to take the valve cover off and check the Valves with it backfiring like it was it was running really Lean and you may have damaged the exhaust valve which is why it may be ticking. The valve could be bent and stuck a little open and may have even damaged the piston. So take the valve cover off and then turn it over BY HAND to bring the piston up to TOP DEAD CENTER and the Cam Sprocket like in this picture.

Then when it is like this grab the rockers and see if you can move them easly.


Alleyoop

[nino]

OK. valve cover is off the piston is up dead center like in the photo and the rockers wont move, I don't have a Feeler Gauge jet but from visual inspection they look totally tight with no clearance


On inspecting the work done by the guy that replaced the STATOR(MAGNETO) cdi, and carburetor I found cooling fan has burn a hole all around the cover
and the flywheel groove/slot is damaged, the carburetor fuel air adjustment screw was out 3 and half full turns. HAAAA El Nino is mad!

[Alleyoop]

OUCH!! Align the CAM SPROCKET like in the picture and take a pic of the flywheel timing to see if it is out of time. If it is out of time then due to the damage to the flywheel and or woodruff AND the flywheel is holding a descent position we can maybe get it timed better by moving the chain over one tooth on the cam sprocket. But that all depends on the flywheel and woodruff key holding position.

Next is to adjust the valves, if this is a 50cc set them both to .003 inchs, if its a 150cc set them both to .004 inchs. Then by hand turn it over a few times and check them again BEFORE you put the Valve cover back on AND DON'T FORGET THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE MOTOR TO THE FRAME.
Ok now see if it fires.

alleyoop