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Post by Alleyoop on May 10, 2014 18:50:41 GMT -6
Great!! so the fuel mixture was not right that is good the motor will run much better. Put a dab of SILICONE on the Screw and threads and the piece that it screws into so it does not Vibration loose and come out.
Now to see how many turns it is out from the closed position while the motor is OFF turn it clockwise until it stops and COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS it takes to stop. Then you can turn it back out and see how many turns it takes to come completly out. That will tell you how close it is to falling out. Then you can screw it back in until it stops and turn it back out the number of turns you had it running good. And silicone the sucker Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by xringracing on May 12, 2014 10:24:11 GMT -6
Well Alley, I didn't read your post until after I put the bike back together, Not knowing what to do and running out of daylight, I cranked the screw back in for the moment, a little further out than before. It's a little harder to start now, but idles slightly better than before when it warms up. I'm going to tear it down again maybe next weekend while I have my buddies small engine knowledge on hand. Check for air leaks, and check the valves. I do hear a sort of "knock". I took a video to post so you guys can hear it and tell me if it sounds like valves are out of wack. I have to get the proper cable for my phone to post it.... I can't find it at the moment I do question how long silicone will keep that idle screw in if that's the route I have to go. I know it will work, but I've seen it degrade with heat over time. Have you tried that silicone method directly on a hot engine before Alley? I just can't help but think if everything is where it should be, I shouldn't have to crank it out so far, and should have room to back the idle off some. I'm starting to lean heavily towards the valves being really out of wack. I've seen different valve adjustment video's but i'm not sure which one pertains to my engine. i've seen one that looks to be external adjustments with 2 screws holding two sliding mechanisms in place. And I've seen one where a cover has to be removed to get to the internal parts. Can someone advise which method pertains to this engine and post the best link that explains how to do it?
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Post by Alleyoop on May 12, 2014 13:23:40 GMT -6
To answer your question the silicone will hold. But if you have to open up that much that is not right in the first place. So I would say you have an air leak someplace and that is why it requires more fuel.
As far as the motor that is pretty easy if you have the 244c HELIX motor VERTICAL the valve adjustments are on the outside of the valve cover if you have the LINAHI Horizontial motor then you have the intake on top cover and the exhuast on the bottom cover. Alleyoop
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Post by xringracing on May 15, 2014 22:00:05 GMT -6
I want to tear my hair out! I keep running into one issue after another... problems that now need attention besides the idle.. * left headlight switch, high beams shorting out- I solved this and will talk about it in a separate post. * overheating issue- possible bad electrical connection to the fan, or a bad sensor that controls the fan. * charging or battery issue * rear caliper rattling around / dragging on rotor- I found this out while engine stand was being used and the rear tire was turning I will try to make separate posts for these problems later... got my work cut out for me.. I did manage to install some new mirrors with built in blinkers
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Post by Alleyoop on May 15, 2014 23:13:36 GMT -6
Forget the cosmetics get the scoot running right and good then you can doll it up. Otherwise you will have a pretty garden ornament all dolled up but no go. Alleyoop
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Post by xringracing on May 16, 2014 8:05:29 GMT -6
Yeah, I know, the important stuff 1st..lol. The reason I installed the mirrors was because it didn't come with any and I've still been riding it.
It was just something else I could knock off the list in short amount of time, until I am able to tear it down again and do more research before I do.
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Post by Bashan on May 17, 2014 14:42:28 GMT -6
Pull the connector to the fan. Put a multi in it on bike side for DC. Start the bike and let it get warmed up. If 12v DC shows up you have a bad fan. If no volts show up it's a bad thermoswitch or bad supply circuit. Rich
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Post by moose on Jun 24, 2014 18:42:12 GMT -6
The blinkers and hazards just went out on mine any advice
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 19:46:08 GMT -6
The blinkers and hazards just went out on mine any advice Check the FLASHER either wires got disconnected or the flasher is bad but you can pick one up and any auto parts store. Just check yours for the number of connectors it has 2 or 3 and get one with the same number of connectors. Alleyoop
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Post by moose on Jun 25, 2014 18:37:20 GMT -6
okay thanks prolly is the connectors cuz they both the blinkers and the hazards stopped working at the same time
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Post by nich on Jul 17, 2014 12:23:27 GMT -6
I have a PD30J carburetor on my DF300STG. How do I adjust the feul ratio?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 17, 2014 13:35:19 GMT -6
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