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Post by xringracing on May 8, 2014 10:59:11 GMT -6
Hi all, my 1st post here thanks in advance for the advise. I just upgraded from a 50cc Chinese scooter to a 300 cc (278 in reality). From my research it is the same as a Jonway 250, just with a 278 cc engine. Body and everything else is identical. Having had my 50 I have gone through it quite well and have it running great. I've had it for 4 years, put 4000 miles on it. I replaced air lines, re-did the crappy electrical connections, had my buddy tune it up, replaced the Chinese fuel lines.
The 300cc I just picked up is a 2012 with 750 miles on it. So far I love it, but alas, new problems. I know I should do a coolant, oil and gear lube change. Since I got it Friday I have put 120 miles on it. It ran a little rough from day one, stalled out on me with an idle set at 1000 rpm. The idle didn't scare me much as the tag says it should be at 1500. If i kept it at 1500 it would not stall so I was going to adjust the idle this weekend. What worried me more is the fact that it was "missing" quite a bit. Over the last 6 days it became progressively harder and harder to start and this morning it would not start at all!
The previous owner bought it brand new, put the majority of the miles on it in 2012, and only rode it once or twice last year and stored it away with old gas in it. I had to being it home 50 miles, so filled it up with new fuel (without draining the old half tank of fuel). Ran that tank down to half, and again refueled, this time adding seafoam to the tank in hopes to aid in any cleaning that was causing it to miss.
Any advise for me? Things to look for? My buddy will be helping me I hope, he's small engine mechanic, but hasn't worked on many scooters. Just wondering if there any "must change parts that I should take care of or common problem areas?
I'm also wondering which engine this unit has, where can I get a manual, and what size "charging unit" is on this bike?
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Post by Alleyoop on May 8, 2014 11:20:12 GMT -6
If you adjust the IDLE to 1500-1800 it should clear out the missing. Idling to on these motors will load them up and miss fire. As far as manuals use this everyone with the 300s use this they are the same just a punched out motor is all. Alleyoop www.rapidrepairpowersports.com/Yamaha%20YP250.html |
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Post by xringracing on May 8, 2014 15:27:31 GMT -6
Wow, that's a great link you provided, thank you, much appreciated. So, this is a Yamaha Clone engine, while the scoot itself is a Honda reflex clone?
The tag says 15W40 oil. Before I read the tag I purchased 10W40 motorcycle oil, is it recommended I find 15W40?
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Post by Alleyoop on May 8, 2014 16:01:16 GMT -6
15w40 or 10w40 is good not a problem.
Most do not buy motorcycle oil most of us just buy regular car oil same weight.
Alleyoop
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Post by xringracing on May 8, 2014 20:55:26 GMT -6
The light switch on the left side for high and low beams looks like this... www.motopartsmax.com/images/ebay/273-999021/1-l.jpgOn the back of it there is a sideways lever "thingy".. can you tell me what that is for? I'm having issues with a short in the lights and can not figure out what the heck that little thing is for... |
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Post by xringracing on May 8, 2014 20:56:54 GMT -6
15w40 or 10w40 is good not a problem. Most do not buy motorcycle oil most of us just buy regular car oil same weight. Alleyoop Is there an advantage , or disadvantage? Should I return it and get car oil? |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 8, 2014 21:22:19 GMT -6
NO use what you already have but next time just get regular car oil. The thingy in the back of the Left light switch is just a headlight flasher try it you will see what it does.
Alleyoop
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11,000 Miles and Counting...
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Post by bhinch on May 9, 2014 5:44:45 GMT -6
Welcome...I would adjust the valves and see if that helps. My 250B (257) has over 11,000 miles and I have adjusted the valves one time. Runs great.... intake .004 exhaust .006 enjoy your ride...
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Post by racerx125 on May 9, 2014 11:47:43 GMT -6
I have a DF250RTC so if you need any help send me a msg yours and mine are nearly the same just different engine and looks. I have unassembled and assembled mine completely so I pretty much now how the harness connects with my eyes closed  I adjusted my valves to 0.004 on both and seems to be working fine really helped with stalling during cold mornings I share your pain on the crappy wire harness. Mine short circuited 2 months after buying it so I had to buy lots of wire and make my own harness by copying what was left of the old on because the old one was melted together so bad. Mine idles nicely at about 1500 to 1700 rpms and that sideways lever is for the turn signals |
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Post by kz1000st on May 10, 2014 10:08:17 GMT -6
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Post by racerx125 on May 10, 2014 11:17:07 GMT -6
I meant that the wiring would be nearly identical because I notice a buddy of mine bought a DF scooter and had near same wiring as mine
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Post by xringracing on May 10, 2014 14:26:13 GMT -6
Well, thanks for all the encouragement guys. I have the thing torn apart, good news is it's running again, turned out to be nothing more that a loose plug boot  HOWEVER, while I have it torn apart I want to adjust the idle, my problem is the idle screw is already cranked all the way in. The spring under the idle screw is fully compressed. there is no more adjustment to increase idle speed.. what do I do now? |
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Post by xringracing on May 10, 2014 14:29:28 GMT -6
Well, thanks for all the encouragement guys. I have the thing torn apart, good news is it's running again, turned out to be nothing more that a loose plug boot HOWEVER, while I have it torn apart I want to adjust the idle, my problem is the idle screw is already cranked all the way in. The spring under the idle screw is fully compressed. there is no more adjustment to increase idle speed.. what do I do now? |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 10, 2014 14:42:59 GMT -6
Adjust your carbs Fuel Ratio Mixture First try Clockwise 1/4 at a time and wait about 10 seconds or so to allow the motor to catch up with the new setting. IF THE IDLE goes up repeat until it does nothing then if it is idling to high Back out the IDLE SPEED SCREW.
If turning it CLOCKWISE lowers the IDLE even more then go COUNTER CLOCKWISE and repeat the 1/4 turn until the IDLE DOES NOTHING.
Alleyoop
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Post by xringracing on May 10, 2014 16:55:41 GMT -6
Alley, I did what you said, and finally had to go counterclockwise to start getting the idle to raise. To get it to idle on it's own 18-1900 seems to do the trick. But the screw is backed out so far, I'm afraid it will fall out. If I take it out enough to reach 2 grand, the screw falls out! I had hoped to take it to 2 grand to 2200 and then back off the idle screw a bit. What should I do? The last thing I want to do is have that screw come out while driving and get stranded. Pic attached is where it sits right now, idling at about 1800- 1900.... It idles good here, but as you can see there are multiple threads exposed...  Should I crank it back in for now and drive it for awhile with the bad idle and work on running more clean gas through it along with seafoam? Does it make any sense at all to get a longer idle screw? Or is that just a stupid thought? Sounds stupid, yet logical, but I have to ask... |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
HOWEVER, while I have it torn apart I want to adjust the idle, my problem is the idle screw is already cranked all the way in. The spring under the idle screw is fully compressed. there is no more adjustment to increase idle speed.. what do I do now? 