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Post by billg on Jan 6, 2015 2:38:27 GMT -6
Will reburp tomorrow. It just seems to me that if it's a burp problem, it would not maintain correct temp when just tooling around town. It's after about 10 min. of flat out on the freeway that the temp pegs. I noticed that slowing down a little resulted in a little temp reduction, but then reduction to street speeds does not return temp to normal street temps. To me, that points to a radiator capacity problem. That make any sense?
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Post by billg on Jan 6, 2015 2:33:20 GMT -6
It's a bonkers scooter. Took a while to find out that low tire pressure costs 10 mpg. It will get out on the freeway and run flat out with the speedo pegged at about 90, which I figure is about 70. Once I drilled the clutch bell, the clutch shudder disappeared and everything is smooth. Great machine - for a mechanic.
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Post by billg on Jan 6, 2015 2:23:14 GMT -6
NoScript is the culprit. I am not given the option to mark the PB site as trusted. Looks like I'll have to look into NoScript further. The advantage of NoScript is that it gives you the option of running scripts when you choose, unlike Firefox. That is, when it is working correctly.
BillG
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Post by billg on Jan 5, 2015 2:17:22 GMT -6
Boy am I gonna feel dumb if that's it. How do I do it 'correctly'?
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Post by billg on Jan 5, 2015 2:15:43 GMT -6
It runs fine when pegged, just pegged hot. It acts like a volume problem. Per another post, I'm gonna recheck burping the coolant. I saw something somewhere on how to do it correctly but can't find it now. Any suggestions?
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Post by billg on Jan 5, 2015 2:09:39 GMT -6
Thanks all. I reset a NoScript setting and all is OK. I gotta read up on NoScript. It's complicated.
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Post by billg on Jan 4, 2015 11:14:15 GMT -6
On every page of this forum a hangup occurs with a script that won't finish. The script is: ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1.7.2/jquery.min.js:4The page hangs up until I stop the script after about 1 minute of hangup. Is anyone else having this problem? I am using Mozilla Firefox and NoScript. I set NoScript to allow all scripts to no avail. BillG |
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Post by billg on Jan 3, 2015 18:11:02 GMT -6
The thermostat is brand new as I suspected that in the first place. The one I took out functioned correctly, as it turned out. I'll check it out, but I doubt that's the problem. If it was the thermostat, there would be little or no circulation at all and the fan would never turn on as the fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiatior.
When I had the thing apart to change the head gasket, which was exactly the same as the original one as to the size of coolant holes, I checked the coolant ports and found no obstructions.
I'm beginning to think there are some plugged radiator tubes even though I ran a wide open garden hose through the radiator with no problem.
I'm running out of things to check.
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Post by billg on Jan 2, 2015 23:01:49 GMT -6
I have a 2008 Duke Touring 250 that I'm pleased with but concerned with temp pegging when run on the freeway full out with speedo pegged. I have removed the radiator and checked for obstructions without finding any. Coolant level is burped and maxed. Plug reads perfect light brown. Radiator fan is working properly. I had it out today in cold weather and the cooling system still can't keep up. Once pegged on hot, it will not cool down at any speed. To anyone's knowledge, is this a common problem with the Duke Touring 250? Is the radiator undersized?
When I replaced the head gasket I looked up a YouTube video of the operation on this engine in another scooter.
That video directed setting the timing chain differently than the manual. I followed the manual. Valves are adjusted in accordance with the manual, snug and backed off 1/2 mark.
When I replaced the head gasket recently, I noticed that the coolant holes in the head gasket are not as large as the coolant holes in the head and sleeve. I purposely did not alter the head gasket, figuring the reason for its coolant hole sizes were there for a reason. This is the Honda Helix engine which has a reputation for running all day at speed. What's wrong?
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Post by billg on Nov 5, 2014 13:20:53 GMT -6
Rich,
Hey, you provided the best info I've seen yet and I really appreciate it. Not knowing anything about motorcycle electrical systems, I can't look at mine and tell which kind it is just from the wiring. That's what makes this forum so valuable. It's like flying. Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and how it works. No big deal if you do.
It ain't no thing if you get in a hurry. Most of us are peddling as fast as we can already.
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Post by billg on Nov 4, 2014 21:56:45 GMT -6
I really appreciate the circuit diagrams of the CDI and Rectifier/Regulator. This makes everything easier to understand from a troubleshooting point of view for those of us without tons of experience with these things as you summarized in your last paragraph.
It's stuff like this that make this forum valuable.
Bill
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Post by billg on Nov 4, 2014 17:31:08 GMT -6
Bashan, I'd like to see the ACTUAL wiring diagram of the regulator and the cdi, for that matter. The wiring diagram is not complete without them. What's the big secret inside those components? You might want to inform everyone that Tsunami Bike in Canada is acting weird. Call there published number and you get a FAX whine.No response to email either. Methinks they are in trouble. For those interested, the same manual choke kit can be obtained here. www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products_details.asp?PartNo=53009&CategoryID=2&PartsectionID=26Cheers, |
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Post by billg on Nov 3, 2014 18:14:17 GMT -6
Bashan,
I pulled the auto choke and turned on the key. Nothing. I then started the engine and the auto choke extended within 3 minutes. It figures since the auto choke works by heating an expanding medium that extends the cylinder, and it takes AC to make heat. It took 10 minutes + to retract once the engine was shut down.
I don't know what's wrong with Tsunami Bike in Canada. They do not answer emails or acknowledge orders even after being paid by Pay Pal. Something wrong there. I just want to get my manual choke kit. Today ATT internet is real flakey. Maybe if the NSA would butt out we could get on with business.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2014 14:47:37 GMT -6
Yeah, I figured pulling out the enricher and turning on the key would give me the straight skinny. Too bad they don't include the wiring diagram of the regulator. Then we could tell what's going on. Maybe that's why they don't. If you come across one, I'd sure like to hear about it.
It will be interesting to see the response with just the key on, and the response with the engine running.
There is a spliced in extra wire in that circuit, identifiable because it is yellow cloth weave covered. I just assumed (there's that word again!) that it had something to do with a mod to conform to California standards which, in addition to emissions, include a hard wired headlight on. Guess now I'll have to trace it all out.
The enricher is acting funny. In addition to no extra fuel at cold startup, I came out of grocery shopping to restart with too much extra fuel, identifiable by all the characteristics of a flooded engine. Almost didn't get it started.
I ordered the manual choke from Tsunami Bike. Their customer service via their website sucks! No response at all. Called them and they don't even know about the order.
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Post by billg on Oct 29, 2014 19:17:07 GMT -6
Bashan, Yes I do have a wiring diagram, thanks to Scooter Doc Forum. The one in the owner's manual is the wrong one. So is the spark plug callout. On the wiring diagram, I can't find the 'enricher' unless it's the PTC, in which case it gets AC directly off one leg of the magneto. That would account for the 4.65 volts I read going to the 'enricher'. Here is the wiring diagram.  |
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