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Post by billg on Oct 28, 2014 20:33:27 GMT -6
I finally got around to checking the voltage to the 'enricher'. It 4.65 volts and is turned on by the ignition key. Do you guys think this is a problem? I checked the enricher using 12 Volt battery power and it worked as advertised. It still heats up when installed so I assumed (there's that word again) everything was OK.
Bill
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Post by billg on Oct 26, 2014 19:35:17 GMT -6
Appreciate the look out. I've looked everywhere and can't get a picture of how this extender fixes to the idle mixture screw. From the looks of it, it will not make the 90 deg. bend in the space necessary to work in the Lance Chinese puzzle. Right now, I'm inching my way up to proper richness 1/2 turn at a time, the hard way. Installing the manual enricher will help speed the process. I'm thinking about an auto choke cable with the handle sticking out just under the front of the seat.
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Post by billg on Oct 26, 2014 14:09:15 GMT -6
I posted this message earlier but it seems to have disappeared. The enricher heats up normally, so it must have voltage. Of course, this is no guarantee that it's extending, but it's a pretty good indication seeing that it did so when tested separately. In any case, I just ordered the manual choke kit.
As it turns out, there is no way to reach the idle mixture adjust screw on the Lance Duke Touring 250 without taking the carb out of the rubber intake manifold. It is not possible to twist the carb as it interferes with the fitting that holds the coolant temp sensor. This makes dialing in the best idle mixture setting a very slow process. The motorcycle special 90 degree long screwdriver for reaching idle mixture screws on motorcycles is sadly not even modifiable to be short enough to fit between the idle mixture screw and the frame. If you run across one that works, I'd sure like to hear about it.
On another subject, my owner's manual says to use propylene glycol for coolant. Nobody has it locally in California. Does everyone just use regular auto antifreeze like I'm doing?
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Post by billg on Oct 24, 2014 6:36:01 GMT -6
It just occurred to me that the 'enricher' has to have voltage because it does heat up just like it did when it tested it.
I could be wrong about how short a time it takes to idle normally, it's just a guess. The problem is, because the 'enricher' retracts so slowly, making adjustments and testing by starting the engine, each add to the 'key on' time which effectively is cumulative unless you wait for more than the 10 or more minutes it takes for retraction between each engine start.
I'd rather have a manual choke.
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Post by billg on Oct 24, 2014 6:21:02 GMT -6
Thanks! Now I know what you mean. I'll check the voltage to the enricher.
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Post by billg on Oct 23, 2014 16:41:39 GMT -6
Yep! You're right! Even though the idle mixture screw is on the engine side of the carb, it does admit fuel. I knew it when I noticed the plug to a drilled hole passing through the idle mixture screw channel (at 90 deg. to it) and going right to the float bowl. I then carefully turned the screw to full closed and opened it one turn. Perfect, even though the manual says 2 to 2.5 turns.
I was working from an article about small engine carbs that said (not a direct quote) that usually, if the idle mixture screw is on the engine side of the carb, it regulates bleed air and if it is located on the input side of the carb, it regulates fuel.
Goes to show you can't assume anything. Trust those crafty Japanese to make an exception. My guess is that this arrangement makes it easier to adjust for (and spot)leaks developing leaks in the manifold between the carb and the engine.
I really do appreciate the expert help. Color me impressed.
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Post by billg on Oct 23, 2014 14:59:32 GMT -6
Bashan,
The enricher is working properly because idle is normal after about 1.5 min., meaning that the enricher has extended and cut off extra fuel.
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Post by billg on Oct 23, 2014 14:55:58 GMT -6
Alleyoop,
Yes, my thought exactly. The idle adjustment screw is on the output side of the carb and adjusts bleed air, not fuel, so it must be turned counter-clockwise (admitting more air) to lean the mixture.
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Post by billg on Oct 22, 2014 16:36:11 GMT -6
Alleyoop,
I was hoping that wasn't it. The Duke Touring 250 has one glaring design flaw. The carb sits about 1.5" off the frame. I bought a special motorcycle carb adjusting screwdriver with a 90 degree bend at the end hoping to be able to adjust the idle mixture while running the engine. No luck! Even that won't reach it because of the interference with the frame. I am looking into shortening the bent end. There has to be a setting that works because this machine did work right at one time.
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Post by billg on Oct 22, 2014 16:27:51 GMT -6
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Post by billg on Oct 22, 2014 2:46:18 GMT -6
I just replaced a head gasket on my Lance Duke Touring 250. When I got it back together it works like new except that it needs throttle at a cold start up. I checked the electric enrichment device and it works and is withing spec resistance wise. I put my pinkie in the enrichment outlet at cold start up and got no change in idle. The float is set to manual spec. I put a small hose into the enrichment outlet and drew gas fumes, so it appears to be delivering gaseous fuel. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am thinking the carb might not be in the correct position. On the Duke 250, the notch on the carb output side will not fit into the corresponding notch shape built into the rubber intake joint (as it probably does on the Honda Helix) and still allow the air intake box to fit. Maybe I have the carb tilted too much? Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/conversation/49581#ixzz3GrOyoHxF
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