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Post by merlindad5262 on Aug 28, 2016 14:20:44 GMT -6
Hello all....it's been a bit since I was here and I have hit a wall, so to speak, with my Tao Tao 50cc Scooter. After many months of sitting in storage - I have had some health issues that prevented me from using the machine - I regained my 'healthy' status per my PriCare Team at my VA Clinic and decided to drag my scooter out of storage and begin the chore of getting it serviceable.
As always happens, the time that it sat in storage reeked havoc on the electrical system. I had removed the battery prior to storing the machine and I purchased a new one and installed it. Trying to NOT be cynical, I could not start the engine because there was NO ELECTRICAL POWER at all! So, I began my career again as a Spark-Chaser, and started the vigil of determining the Root Cause.
After checking the fuse that is in a fuse holder inside the battery well for defect, I was sorely disappointed to find that it was in perfect working order AND that there was continuity through the wires in BOTH DIRECTIONS. Onward I continued and finally, after disassembling all of the body panels, and many attempts to discover the problem(s), I came to see that there is NO GOOD WIRING SCHEMS AVAILABLE via a dealer who serviced and sold Tao Tao Scooters OR on the Web.
Therefore, I decided that I was going to start at the obvious part - the ignition switch - and begin testing from that component. I became so frustrated at the design of the electrical system in total AND the fact that my only key broke off inside the ignition switch, I decided to re-engineer the system.
The first attempt at 'shooting the connections' from the 5 pin Male Connector to the ignition switch proved to me that there was/is, a problem with corrosion. Having had a key ruin a switch I elected to replace said component without buying another one, and use the existing wiring to support my mod. That is where the real fun began.
I am going to stop this rant at this point and I shall return after I have created a viable, wiring schematic of MY SCOOTER!! I shall include the colors of each wire that is a part of the factory harnesses. Please standby for more information.
'Nuff said.....
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Post by merlindad5262 on Apr 18, 2015 23:34:23 GMT -6
So, I gave up on trying to repair my carb and bought a new one. I R & R'd the component and after discovering that a method for 'priming' the new one was needed, I had the engine running after two kicks! METHOD USED TO 'PRIME' THE CARB : 1. Open the float bowl drain by loosening the screw that is located in the component which is connected to the end of the Float Bowl Drain Hose, 2 turns.Remove a vacuum hose from the intake manifold. ENSURE THAT THE FUEL DELIVERY HOSE IS ATTACHED TO THE CARB'S FUEL CONNECTION. 2. Disconnect a vacuum hose from the intake manifold - (there are two to choose from). 3. Apply a vacuum to the end of the disconnected vacuum hose and maintain until fuel escapes out of the Float Bowl Drain. 4. Reconnect vacuum hose. 5. Close the Float Bowl Drain by tightening the screw 1/16 turn past where it seats. 6. Start engine and inspect for any leaks. This method was what I completed to FINALLY get my Tao Tao, to Go Go.  |
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Post by merlindad5262 on Mar 27, 2015 11:07:42 GMT -6
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Post by merlindad5262 on Mar 27, 2015 8:45:31 GMT -6
I am still work-stoppage on the repair. The weather has been spotty rain and I do not have a garage to work in so the great outdoors has to be contended with. I posted a number of photos which my son did a fantastic job of taking the pics. I don't see them linked so I 'suppose I will re-post them, after I review all of them and select the ones that seem to be the best. I am antsy to get through this and have the scooter up in time to start enjoying the new year!!!
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Post by merlindad5262 on Mar 19, 2015 6:40:48 GMT -6
I am thinking that WE, Alleyoop & myself, need to exchange 'hot-line' phone numbers-like the Prez has with other World Leaders, because this post has grown to the point where the work involved to "GOTO" the next step is too much to warrant another post? I am humbled, again by an Internal Combustion Engine's need for further investigation as to why it fails to perform correctly. It is still performing terribly even after I followed the carb tuning instructions that was linked to this post, Alleyoop - Thanks for that, BTW. I became over-whelmed after spending too much time and realizing that I still had a problem.  _ I have given myself a sleep session to clear my mind, I shall continue searching for the ROOT CAUSE. I plan to remove the carb and disassy it to facilitate re-inspecting the component parts for contamination, defects, or reassy errors. I will add to this thread as to what I discover. |
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Post by merlindad5262 on Feb 16, 2015 6:45:36 GMT -6
@ jerryscript : I have used the yellow color Loc-TiTe. I am not certain as it has been many years since I was a CAT Mechanic, but I recall using it during my tenure.
What I do recall is : in the order of use vs color it was, RED(permanent assembly), yellow(Semipermanent), blue('liquid lockwasher').
The blue is released by striking the head of the fastener with a hammer. The yellow and red were BOTH released with applying heat. Red was only used when a bearing race was installed. The CAT method I learned to accomplish removal of a component part where RED had been applied was all about a DC arc welder, NOT a rose-bud oxy/acetylene torch.
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Post by merlindad5262 on Feb 9, 2015 15:21:14 GMT -6
Me too..I have a 36pc. set of long shanked bits that I bought many months ago. I was repairing a Sony Play-Station 3 console game system and there was one torx fastener that was installed in a blind hole approx. 1.5inches deep. I did not have the tool to remove it. It was cheaper in the end to buy a set that included the one I needed AND all of the other drivers, too. Experience is a valuable asset.  |
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Post by merlindad5262 on Feb 9, 2015 14:23:54 GMT -6
The screws have in internal hex or torqx configuration. You mentioned a "back-out drill bit". I had a set of left handed drills which I bought from a MAC Tools dealer many years ago when I worked at a Caterpillar Dealership in Texas. I wish I still had them.
Your suggestion gave me an idea that may work. I can make a 'removal tool' out of a long shank hex bit that is used in a drill or a hand operated hex bit driver. Your suggestion about 'shocking' the fasteners with a hammer and a punch was a step that has been used by me, frequently. Blue Loctite will break if it is applied to a fastener's threads. The red or green is another story tho'. /wink
I'll let you know if I succeed using the tool I described.
And, thanks for your time and attention....I am not as nimble as I used to be. I 'wore my hands and knees' out working on aircraft. Forty years later I figured that out!
I am a Jack-of-All-Trades, but a master at one.
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Post by merlindad5262 on Feb 9, 2015 13:55:24 GMT -6
The three fasteners which secure the float bowl are the ones I am struggling with. None of the places/parts you mentioned apply - Sorry.
How can I send you a photo, please?
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Post by merlindad5262 on Feb 9, 2015 13:28:51 GMT -6
I own a Tao Tao 50cc scooter. I am having problems with starting the engine and how the engine runs once it is started. I bought it from a friend of a friend, I suspect that the problem may be related to the scooter having sat for a period of time and that allowed gasoline evaporation from the float-bowl which causes a restriction to develop on ALL of the parts inside it.
To inspect the carb for this condition, I am struggling to find a method to remove the three fasteners which secure the float-bowl to the carb main body. (I have many years of experience as a mechanic/technician. I was "employed" in the USAF as a Hydraulic Repairman/Technician on fighter weapons systems. I also was a Engineering?Quality Control Tech @ an Aerospace Fluid Power vendor/contractor. I mention all of this because I believe that it is important to be familiar with one's background when discussing simple BUT very challenging technical problems.)
I have removed the carb and removed the plug which was installed in the cavity where the Throttle Mixture Adjustment Screw is located. I accomplished this mod because adjusting the valve MAY correct my problem.
However, I am looking at saving myself time and effort by inspecting the component parts that are included inside the float bowl. NOTE: The fuel delivery circuit has a vaccuum hose connected to a diaphram shutoff valve. That condition does NOT allow the fuel flow path to be manually closed. That design feature is a poor choice as it can lead to the scenario of 'varnishing'. I have discovered and corrected many examples of this on lawn mower engines and motorcycles that had been stored without closing the manually operated fuel shutoff valve. 8(
I have tried solvents : 70% Alcohol, Acetone, and the careful application of heat using a hand-held butane torch. None of those methods corrected my problem!!!
So, does anyone have a method/suggestion to clear the internal cavity of the three screws? I have photos of the configuration and are willing to share them, if someone requires them.
I need "an F4 Mechanic" - please? My database is empty and I have no direction to pursue.
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