Clinician
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 21, 2015 18:44:44 GMT -6
Agreed... The buggy has 2 harnesses and I replaced the engine harness but not the one from the instrument panel back to the engine harness. Despite the switches testing properly and showing continuity when grounded, there is still obviously a short.. When I bypassed the front harness (1 kill switch), with the exception of the ignition switch, and jumpered the coil pickup to the cdi (bypassing a 2nd kill switch) it finally ran.. So, time to by a new front harness or just replace the ground in it and see if that fixes it. Honestly though, I think having 2 kill switches is overkill and mostly I just want the one in back working.
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Clinician
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 21, 2015 9:15:31 GMT -6
It was killing me to find out. Overnight cleaning and air filter install was all it took... Seems to run fine. I'll get to the springs as time allows, but I think the nightmare is over! Thanks for all the support guys!!
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 21, 2015 8:44:52 GMT -6
Good points. Funny, I replaced every darn electrical part on the buggy and I really only needed to bypass the cutoff switches.. Wish I had the epiphany sooner. Live and learn. At least I have spares now. I would like to rewire so that at least one of them works.
I soaked the carb overnight, so we'll see how it does in the next day or two. I went ahead and pulled the trans cover off and will upgrade the springs while I'm in there because I had to inspect the belt... A chipmunk must have made it home since it blew out so many acorns!
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 17:36:16 GMT -6
The lines seem to be flowing fine. I pulled the fuel line directly to the carb out while it was cranking and it began leaking gas out the line, so I think the problem lies in the carb..
Thank you for the cleaning advice, I'll get on that next...
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Clinician
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 15:35:17 GMT -6
Guess it was just the fuse, wants to crank again now with a 15 amp ATC fuse wired in.
So on to the next question.. It will crank with starter fluid but not keep running. I can't say the entire carb is clean, but I did replace the main jet. The fuel line seems to be clear as well from the vacuum diaphragm at the tank to the carb and it does flow to the carb while cranking/starting with starter fluid.
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Clinician
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 13:24:10 GMT -6
Troubleshooting the electric choke because it wouldn't keep running, I plugged it into the wrong connector and blew the fuse. I'm out of those little glass fuses, so I'm going to try a 15amp blade type as soon as I can run down the road to Walmart or auto parts store. With the fuse blown, should it still allow the starter to crank if I short the relay terminals? Mine won't..
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 12:53:55 GMT -6
And now I've blown the fuse and starter relay... Gotta love it..
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 11:58:50 GMT -6
Progress.. I completely bypassed the 2 cutoff switches and got a spark for the first time ever. Obviously the fault is somewhere in the wiring. Buggy actually ran for a few seconds with a shot of carb cleaner to it..
Now I need a plumbing diagram to see if I put this thing back together properly. Little history; when I got it , it was a pile of parts...
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Clinician
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 20, 2015 11:20:02 GMT -6
Ok, so one of us forgot to keep our fingers crossed:)
New pickup coil and stator installed and still no spark.. Can you guys help me further explore the wiring and grounding out of the CDI that JR mentioned? I'm obviously not understanding the diagram or how to test the circuits properly.
Thank you for your help so far. I'm confident I'll get it figured out sooner than later with your help!
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 17, 2015 7:23:29 GMT -6
Hey JR, thanks for your input. I've considered those same things wrt the kill switches; and there are 2. By simply disconnecting the stator and pickup coil wiring from the main harness and checking for voltage/signal while cranking, have we not eliminated the kill switches as a failure point? I did replace those switches with new pieces from the manufacturer and tested them with a voltmeter though just in case.
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 16, 2015 19:48:11 GMT -6
Let's keep our fingers crossed, a new one is on the way!
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 16, 2015 19:17:01 GMT -6
I'm with you on the pickup possibly being bad. Hard to believe both the old one and the new one are bad though. The vendor is sending out another pickup and stator as a warranty replacement just in case.
Would it be correct to assume that the stator itself though is not playing a part in the signal to the pickup coil? That is just a function of the flywheel and pickup sending a signal through the blue wire to the cdi right?
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 16, 2015 18:54:32 GMT -6
Magnet is in the same place on both flywheels in relation to the woodruff key.. Have installed both the old and new pickup with the same results (or lack of).
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 16, 2015 18:09:26 GMT -6
No spark at all... And the engine is grounded to the frame and I verified the continuity of the wire.
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Post by ipapilot on Apr 16, 2015 17:46:48 GMT -6
I purchased a new flywheel as well with the new stator. I definitely see the difference in the stators, but the issue seems to be with the pickup and flywheel. This is a wag, but even if there was no stator installed, wouldn't the pickup receive the same sort of input from the flywheel?
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